Recommend mileage for breakin on TT motor
what exactly are you breaking in that takes so many miles???
i usually just cruise around for 30-40 min... start out light the first 10 min, then get a little harder on it for a minute and pull over to check for any leaks, then a little harder, then go change the oil, DONE! straight to the dyno or ready to beat the crap out of.
never lost an engine in my life. i dont know what you guys think is still breaking in after 500+ miles thats insane. lol.
i usually just cruise around for 30-40 min... start out light the first 10 min, then get a little harder on it for a minute and pull over to check for any leaks, then a little harder, then go change the oil, DONE! straight to the dyno or ready to beat the crap out of.
never lost an engine in my life. i dont know what you guys think is still breaking in after 500+ miles thats insane. lol.
what exactly are you breaking in that takes so many miles???
i usually just cruise around for 30-40 min... start out light the first 10 min, then get a little harder on it for a minute and pull over to check for any leaks, then a little harder, then go change the oil, DONE! straight to the dyno or ready to beat the crap out of.
never lost an engine in my life. i dont know what you guys think is still breaking in after 500+ miles thats insane. lol.
i usually just cruise around for 30-40 min... start out light the first 10 min, then get a little harder on it for a minute and pull over to check for any leaks, then a little harder, then go change the oil, DONE! straight to the dyno or ready to beat the crap out of.
never lost an engine in my life. i dont know what you guys think is still breaking in after 500+ miles thats insane. lol.
sounds like its already been broken in for a while to me, if i were in your shoes i would just change the oil and get to tuning. but its your engine.
ive never known anyone to lose an engine from inadequate break-in... im still not quite sure what components people think they are still breaking in after so long. id be more worried that you have been driving around 1500+ miles untuned... especially with big injectors etc. that kind of miles of running way too rich can wash out your piston rings... i hope you "break in" tune is clean.
ive never known anyone to lose an engine from inadequate break-in... im still not quite sure what components people think they are still breaking in after so long. id be more worried that you have been driving around 1500+ miles untuned... especially with big injectors etc. that kind of miles of running way too rich can wash out your piston rings... i hope you "break in" tune is clean.
That sounds pretty on point to what i have read lately too...
ive been researching this as I am getting a high boost full engine built now too.. and from what i have read, it appears the car should not be started until it can be driven fairly hard with load to properly seat the rings in a linear fashion and in a manner that will allow the to best scrape the cylinders throughout its life..(this seems to be why base maps are good so the car starts and is reasonably safe to rev up before true tuning....) guess it has something to do with the microscoring on cylinders newer engines.. dunno, i just spouting off stuff i heard....but i did hear you should start it and run it hard for 50 miles to get em sealed up straight. After that, its just a question of general break in, oiling, coating etc..
just my 2 cents.. appears its the first minutes of the engines life that are the most important. Id love to hear if im wrong.. like i said, im curious as to whats best too.
ive been researching this as I am getting a high boost full engine built now too.. and from what i have read, it appears the car should not be started until it can be driven fairly hard with load to properly seat the rings in a linear fashion and in a manner that will allow the to best scrape the cylinders throughout its life..(this seems to be why base maps are good so the car starts and is reasonably safe to rev up before true tuning....) guess it has something to do with the microscoring on cylinders newer engines.. dunno, i just spouting off stuff i heard....but i did hear you should start it and run it hard for 50 miles to get em sealed up straight. After that, its just a question of general break in, oiling, coating etc..
just my 2 cents.. appears its the first minutes of the engines life that are the most important. Id love to hear if im wrong.. like i said, im curious as to whats best too.
if you arent going to go into boost while youre breaking in anyway, and youre not tuned for boost under break in anyway... why have the standalone EMS and giant injectors in the car? all that will do is make your breakin tune terrible. run stock computer, stock injectors, and just stay the heck out of boost and you can load the engine mildly and cruise around and know the tune is mint until you have a chance to get it on the dyno or street tune it for boost.
Actually for me the car is kinda running on the lean side from what the a/f is reading. Like if I were getting on the hwy and I'm speeding up to get into the lane I see 5lbs and a/f is in the 15.5 16 range. Driving normal is like 14.5. So I really never seen it on the richer side. I wanted it to be a little richer then that since it wasn't tuned yet. It seem to be running really good so far. I'm taking it out tomorrow to a doctors app. I have and the trip is around 140 up and back. From there it will sit for a week then make it's way to the tuner.
5lbs and a/f in the 15.5 16 range is not good. It should be mid to low 12afr IMO.
It seems that your base tune was set up for a N/A car or the high load/low rpm cells not set up correctly!!
I'm no an expert though.
It seems that your base tune was set up for a N/A car or the high load/low rpm cells not set up correctly!!
I'm no an expert though.
You all are very right. I know this is one of the things I b**ched about to the shop who did the start up and the once over when I finished the install. I have a few things to button up like the check valve on the catch can, new plugs and that's about it. Listen I am compleatly on everyones side with the whole mileage breakin. I have never heard of 2500 to 3500 mile breakin. It just come with lack of knowledge. I have delt with mustangs growing up went thru a lot of crap in my life for a few yrs. and wasn't able to do what I'm doing now. So the past year and a half I have been trying to learn as much a i can. I am just not as knowledgable as a lot of guys on here. This is why I'm not affraid to ask ?s and try to get as much help as possible. You just can't get it out of shop and I really don't trust any shop to begin with right now.
O yea I forgot how stupid I was!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Like you never had to speed up to get on to a hwy??????????????? BULL S**T!!!!!!!!!!! If you have noting good to say then keep your comments to yourself or at least don't be a smart a$$ bout it...........
Phunk... im in the same boat as the OP.. FI noob who just dropped mad cash.. 
my engine still hasnt even been machined yet, just found my supplied crank was toast, so im lookin at end of week to even start that.. i will run your post by IMR and ask thier advice in it as well... i like to ask lots of questions , pre research, and know im not going to be back here in two years replacing things again too.
Its a commomn sense thing i have been curious about... like you said, how does one swap that much stuff into a car thats fresh.. and get it to start up at all, let alone, safely and with the ability to break itself in well.
wont be running a stand alone, just Osiris. anyway OP not trying to thread jack, just trying to add to the soup.
my engine still hasnt even been machined yet, just found my supplied crank was toast, so im lookin at end of week to even start that.. i will run your post by IMR and ask thier advice in it as well... i like to ask lots of questions , pre research, and know im not going to be back here in two years replacing things again too.
Its a commomn sense thing i have been curious about... like you said, how does one swap that much stuff into a car thats fresh.. and get it to start up at all, let alone, safely and with the ability to break itself in well.
wont be running a stand alone, just Osiris. anyway OP not trying to thread jack, just trying to add to the soup.
I find it easy to avoid boost (0psi or less) even when 'speeding up' and I have some crackhead fast spooling turbos... all we're saying is be careful. You made an effort to check your A/F while in boost so obviously you knew what you were doing. If you can't avoid boost in your normal driving routines, then pay a little extra and have it broken in on a dyno.
Last edited by djamps; Jul 18, 2011 at 02:31 PM.
So if the shop thats building my car starts it up on the dyno, runs it and tunes it right there, im more or less good to go?
Is that the norm?
Sorry for super noob interjections..
Is that the norm?
Sorry for super noob interjections..
Last edited by bmccann101; Jul 18, 2011 at 04:12 PM.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ml#post9265369
Yesterday we had a customer make the drive from Indiana to our location for a complete Forged Performance calibration using the Haltech ECU. The car was strapped to our Dyno Dynamics Dyno and Sharif went to work. With nothing but start up time on the engine, Sharif also performed a 2hr steady state loaded engine break using our dyno. One of the greatest benefits of the Dyno Dynamics is the ability to steady state tune and perform engine break in before the car ever leaves the shop. This car came to us with the following modifications:
for engine break in? no, you're still an idiot.
PMd thread location over to my shop, they advised they will be seating and breaking in w convention oil at first start up on the dyno. Gave me all sorts of ideas on what to expect and why, and when to change oil, what to use, etc. Things to avoid.
I would be happy to fwd the PM to anyone who'd like to see it if they have similar questions.. i will refrain from posting it as the FI section can get REALLY nasty especially on a shop to shop basis.
So i shal avoid that here.
PROPS once again to Intense Motorsports.
Totally set my mind at ease, thanks Pete.
I would be happy to fwd the PM to anyone who'd like to see it if they have similar questions.. i will refrain from posting it as the FI section can get REALLY nasty especially on a shop to shop basis.
So i shal avoid that here.
PROPS once again to Intense Motorsports.
Totally set my mind at ease, thanks Pete.
