As some of you know I've been having issues starting my car. Ive been taking steps to troubleshoot common issues and I'm checking out the throttlebody now.

I was wondering if when I turn the car to the off position if the throttle should cycle fully open and then fully closed. It doesn't open up all the way; only partially.

I removed it and I'm going to clean it. If worst comes to worst I'll get another one. I hear people have badluck with refurbed ones though?

 

Hope u unhooked battery before u removed harness

 

That I did. I always do whenever I do any form of electrical work.

 

You mean like this ???

[youtube]Yskv5KmIFu0[/youtube]

 

I'm not aware of the diagnostic steps that you have already taken.
Checked fuel pressure?Flow from injectors...Getting any codes?Checked your
crank position sensor?Tried using a spare key(if you have one/valet key)?
I really don't see this as a throttle body problem(could be wrong).
Hard starting means what?
Is your engine stock?

 

^^ Hes got other threads on all that..

all hes asking now is this:

"I was wondering if when I turn the car to the off position if the throttle should cycle fully open and then fully closed. It doesn't open up all the way; only partially.
"

 

Yep. Thanks man. To answer the other guys question I dunno about the FP. I hear the pumps prime though. I have spark and the crank and cam sensors are brand new. And no the block is built and TT.

But yeah if you guys could let me know about the throttlebody that would be great.

 

Mine cycles pretty much like that if I turn the key to the off position. I thought I was supposed to go fully open and then close though. Does your car start with be blade closed like that?

 

these non-fi questions should all be moved to the general maintenance forum. It will get alot more traffic there as well.

 

True. I just hope I can get an answer to this question. Lol

 

The video is from my car & it always started with no problem.

 

i checked mine last night. it only partially opens.

 

Thanks for checking man. Youve been a big help so far. Onto the next one I guess. Lol

 

couple of months old thread, but curious.. what could go wrong with original key that won't let the car drive? security issue?

 

The op's original post isnt detailed very well. What exactly are the issues? Hard start? Long cranks? Starts the same every time? Under what conditions?

 

I'm going to reopen this because the issues are back again. And the car does start every time. Cranks over fine. It's just that it's idling very rich. I pulled the plugs and there was a lot of fuel on them. I replaced them with new ones but same issue occured. The idle is rough and rich.

If I try to rev it barely wants to rev up. I started the car and looked at the throttle body. Should it be partially open or closed at idle?

Please help guys. No CELs. I replaced the cam sensors and crank angle sensors about a year ago but have only put on 1500 miles on the car since.

 

Maybe try cleaning the MAF with MAF spray cleaner. How do you know the idle is rich? (Do you have a wideband gauge or Osiris?) Sounds like limp mode (water in the ECU connector?)

 

I'll try cleaning out the maf. I have an AEM wideband and it's idling very rich. If there was water in the ECU connector it probably wouldve corroded already so I hope thats not the case. The car revs up too slow to be in limp mode. No CELs either. The ECU does have a GTM flash though.

 

so its idling rich, they car has a custom tune on it.

Why not adjust the tune. Its probably tuned poorly. You need to lean it out at idle. If you lean the map way out and its still too rich, then you might have a mechanical problem. But you must retune it 1st.

 

But I'm wondering why would the tune go bad all of a sudden. Especially this bad. Getting a retune once a year I'm sure isn't necessary. It must be a mechanical or electrical problem no?