ya, no point in buying a clutch that is "smooth" if you can't hold your power. Renders it useless. There is always a trade off.

Get the RJM clutch bracket and it will be fine. Multiple people have used it with heavy single disk clutches and I have used it with my triple disk clutch. The brackets make it smooth as butter and wonderful.

 

already have the rjm v2 =D v2.1 is otw i think post office locked it in one of the large boxs by my house though and forgot to put the key in my mailbox so gotta leave a note because one has had something locked inside for like a week and a half now.

 

good luck with the puck clutch. report back how you like it.
cant wait to see 30psi on pump/meth. should be pretty solid!

 

its just gona suck waiting to break it in haha.

one things for sure im going to need much better tires gona call a couple places and see if they can order me some nt555rII like i originally intended.

since the new clutch was free im gona order some electrical stuff and start on the new wiring how i want it. going to pull out the airbag and start working on a panel under there to hold my new fuses and relays and ill make a cf panel for switchs but its probably gona take awhile. next weekend will be the new exhuast gaskets, heat shield for the air filter(since i actually know what that piece is now rofl), this weekend prob work on hood for vents and cutting the skeleton out. depending how well it goes making cf stuff for people i might make a cf lift off hatch with plexiglass.

 

I have the 555rII, and they are only so-so and your setup hits way harder than mine. I shoulda went with the MT's from the start.

 

mayby ill try those then ive still got the link you gave me before saved, i was just looking to get something that would handle decent as well, i know im simply not going to eliminate all wheel spin but would like to minimize it. once i start getting into the suspension after next deployment ill be able to eliminate more spin as well i would imagine, but ill need to get someone to help me dial that in since i am far from a expert dialing in road type setups. older suspension drag setups are far easier, just move the instant center way back lol

 

cuz race car, and mostly because im tired of the oem one rubbing off on my hands after driving

also wiring project, have cable tb in but need to measure for a throttle cable.

 

My mickey thompson 16" bias ply ET streets stick really well....might want to look into some bias ply stuff if you want a good sticky tire.

 

mo random update crap, plan on reclaiming my trunk and putting the stuff here instead.


also installing a integrated engineering surge tank. i have some issues with my other one cracked a weld, i think it being mounted directly to the floor pan might have induced some undue stress plus possibly too much return fuel from the rails + the walbro pumping from intank might have pressurized it. either way even though the new one is smaller then i want i can mount it to the side of the car behind and above the seat belt plus it reduces floor space since the pumps mount inside(and make it run a bit cooler too).

as to solve the issues theres already rubber grommets on the new one plus i have a few .5 ohm 100W resistors coming in, this should drop voltage to about 9.6 volts around town and off boost then the signal from the pressure switch for the meth will kick on a secondary relay for each pump to provide the full 14.6V to the pumps even at 12 psi i dont think dual 044's will have a issue supplying fuel at 9.6V.

 

Amazing!

Are you gonna use the cubby plastic to cover back the tanks?

 

no aluminum wrapped in carbon for like firewall, with quick release to hold it in and easy access. then fire extinguisher will be mounted to it with nozzle in a hole just in case. i originally wanted something similar in the trunk but this will work better. plus i can mount my new fuse box and relays to one of the panels for easy access. if i build it like a shelf i can mount everything behind the passanger or driver seat and use the other side to throw my assault pack since i carry it pretty much everywhere. thinking passanger side though since it minimizes how far stuff is stretched around(fuel lines wires ect.)

 

rewiring pumps still dropped one of the power nuts for the pumps so gotta go buy another one, cant do much today since wife has her car so i can go buy the stuff for wiring and it has shop vac in the trunk so i can clean up some >.<

as you can see got alot of triming to do on the lines but not a high priority atm.

 

little more work done needa finish sealing the sheet metal on the back and also remount and rewire the meth pump ill start on that tomarrow but its looking good.

 

What's your MOS again?

Looking good man, was envisioning something else...it works though

 

11B but i have no actual firefight experience so i consider myself more as a proxy. sure ive had mortars and rockets damn near hit me and crap but that was on the FOB. they pulled me off the line right away due to my high asvab score and needing someone to work directly for our company XO since my company was kinda scattered. since then each new XO has pretty much said hell no when platoons where wanting me which is fine since im missing a bunch of cartilage in my knees lol

originally i wasnt going to mount the sheet metal but it seemed like a great place for easy access i gotta remount the meth stuff then i can make a cover and ill have my trunk again as well as space behind the driver seat to toss bags and w/e else i need. gona use sealer around the edge of the sheet metal so no vibrations plus will cover the razor edge since its thin aluminum and i just cut it with metal shears

 

been messing around with the wiring a little, my tank was def being a restriction(overflow back to tank) a wire was a little loose and i dint know about it until i hit a little bit of boost(about 6 psi) and it rattled it. killed on pump and drops the fuel pressure to 36 psi at idle(where it should be with my 46 psi base) and did not affect afr at all.

i was originally worried about only one pump running and the pump not keeping up since it H's together for the other rail which is why i bought .5 ohm 100w resistors. fixing the loose wire and putting in the resistors(i was planning a 2 speed circuit) the lowest the fuel pressure will go at idle is 39 psi, honestly not sure im too worried about the 3 psi difference vs the possibility of backflow through the inactive pump since the check valve has to be removed to fit an fittings on the pumps.

 

as per Aeromotive, an A1000 can only control FP down to about 40psi to begin with.

 

hmmm missed that one yah im definitely going to use the two speed circuit then so i dont have to worry about one pump not running i just need to wire in the high speed. might get a second pressure switch since the meth one is set to 12-13 psi right now i really dont think i think full voltage until above 26(mayby not even then but wanna be carefuk) so setting a second one to about 22-24 psi would be great

 

I'm not sure if your concern is about the amount returned to your surge tank. I'm returning fuel straight to my OEM tank but I run my dual walbros at 60psi base pressure and have no problems with returning to the stock tank at idle.

 

pretty much, im worried that the amount im returning to the surge tank is greater then the -4 an overflow can handle, and is one of the contributing factors to the old one cracking, that and being solidly mounted are my best 2 guesses hence why the new one is also mounted with rubber grommets. with you at 60 base vs my 45-46 im flowing about 120 lph more at idle then you plus you have more fuel going into the engine due to e85(although sure the amount is barely anything at idle) running them at 10v seems to be the way to go though, if i need to i can bump up pressure to reduce flow but i dont need the extra fuel from the injectors so trying to avoid it