Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

Wow lots of conterdictions and confusion in this thread it is like talking to two different guys one is new looking for advice wanting to build it right, the other knows it all and is heading for a failure.
Recap.
its your first build but...you know whats best??
You are doing it right but..... already cutting corners??
You say the block is good....but when you bought it the engine was siezed with a bent rod??

The only way i would not bore is if the engine was very low milage and still running and i was on a total shoe string budget.

Youre lucky to have +40 years of experience with boosted engines at your side. Not a lot of old school guys have experience with boosted engines

The last engine I seen done with a ball hone was a +20 year mechanic he said it will be fine my friends SR20 made 550whp for about a week.

Good luck and Enjoy it while it lasts

bgant3

thankx for input....reading stuff online can come across as you being a smart ***. so im just gonna take it & leave.

like said post before, it'll be inspected again. Honed correctly. taper check, and rings gap checked. IF I do everything right, I'll be fine. No issues. Not going over the top with goals and power like everyone else. probably could have gotten it done on stock engine but kept reading about the "rod" issue in oem VQ.


ill update when finished.

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

The first I was trying to help After getting a dose of you smarter than me attitude now I am being a smart *** but still giving rock solid advice.
Don't listen I don't care I am just some douche on the Internet....it's not my time or money you are using but as big of a douche as I am I learn from those before me.
Call me what ever you want, but talk to a reputable machine shop about my points. If the block is good you may get away with a hone (not a ball hone) but it is always better to bore. You don't have to like me or listen to me but at least now you can ask some important questions that you wouldn't have before.

In all seriousness good luck and I do hope it works out for you I spent several years and thousands of dollars getting my car sorted out and it is a nightmare that sucks your love for modding cars right out of you.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

errr my bad sylvan a little bit out of it ill correct my other post haha

bgant3

OK

Sorry if my post seem erratic. i Just one excited ****.

- yes this is my 1st engine build. Correct. when i say "ill be fine" not trying to be a know it all. Im being positive.
- yes, i could have paid some1 10 grand+ to do this all, but what do i learn from that.
- Like the post says, this is just a project. not trying to prove anything to anyone. not trying to have the fastest car. I'm having fun. learning ins/outs.

Just giving those who'd like to do what im doing, but either scared or no money yet, get it in their head its possible if ya take your time and do it right. which as ya see, gonna make errors. Not to late to fix tho.

bgant3

Hey Guys. Will begin Build this upcoming Wednesday When I get off. Off work the following Thurs/Fri/sat as well. So will try to get it all put back together. MANY MANY pics will be takin. I have $2,500 left to spend in my Z Build account, but the stuff i need outwiegh whats left to spend..lol.


Need clutch, bbk, downpipes, gauges. Thats it. Will worry about tune part after engine dropped in. OF course income over the next month or so, should have some extra to buy small stuff. I keep checking classifieds everyday hoping used gauges or aam downpipe would pop up. I may even wait on bbk until everything else is done.



keep in mind, only shooting for really high 4xx, DD.... Those are my goals.


funny story:
completely off topic, but ive been monitoring my shift points the past couple weeks, and i realized, my car NEVER goes above 3k rpms..lol. It's rare that Im on highway doing 70+ mph. gonna have to change my "granny" style driving when the boost arrives

t6378tp1

iTrader: (8)

funny this whole ball hone thing came up, I just got finished talking to a shop owner with a 2300hp supercharged big block camaro but the same thing. He told me how he bought a junkyard motor ball honed and re-ringed it and ran 10's all on his personal car with no issues.

Although this was in a 5.0 stang

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

people also buy junkyard 5.3L gm motors and do nothing to them at all and run 10's does it mean its a good idea? no its still a time bomb either way. great thing about the 5.0(older ones not the new dohc motors) is you can get a replacement shortblock from a junkyard for a few hundred bucks

bgant3

all that is mute point. Block back @shop. Cylinder Walls are fine. Nice, Shiny. honed.

I had a problem with standard mains. Didnt update at the time I found problem becuz everyone was bashing me about the hone. But the Crank Would not spin freely. So having it all checked out professionally. obvious i did something wrong in measurement process. Once I found out I couldn't turn the crank with all bolts torqued 60ft. I loosened them all completely, crank spun freely. I then Started to tighten the inner bolts of the sequence, crank would get harder and harder, until wouldnt turn at all. So I have a main bearing problem. Clearances Just to tight.

Yes, Bearings were lubed..

I thought I'd be able to go by the book, being as the only thing Im changing in bottom end was the piston/rod. Everything should have checked out to oem specs (.002). but as you guys say might as well give it to the pros. guy is another friend of my dad's. Gonna check it with mics, we'll do a extra clearance bearing setup i guess. Or maybe custom setup mixing standard with undersize.... Waitin to hear back before I buy anything. Had block for week now. Don't think he is charging me, so not gon rush him. lol. But hopefully as i posted couple nights ago, can begin build Wednesday night. Darn Living room is packed with parts..

***btw, I got Fuel Return as well. New fuel rail, with - an fittings attached.

thanks JerryD87 for your knowledge : ) ..... I'll say it again, I don't take any of yall comments wrong way. I have to remember you all have done this before, made errors, & know way more about this than me.

bgant3

Update for Early August

got the block back, crank rotated fine in the block by itself. so went onto the next step. Checked my endgaps, then Installed my rods pistons. Rod clearances were in spec... After I got them installed, I got a panic attack.lol. As the shortblock was harder to turn (added pressure from rings)......dont laugh, & i forgot where i read this from, but I thought the crank was supposed to keep on spinning after ya gave it a few good turns...Sent JerryD a message and he reassured me no engine on the planet will keep spinning after the torque that was required to make it spin, is removed.....which made perfect sense after i thought about it. LOL.

Though I have pretty much everything to assemble the engine completely, I'd like to wait until I have a set date to do the switch and the money set aside so that I can take it to CIN and have it tuned all in that same week I do the swap. So this shortblock will remain in the garage, covered, until I can execute the plan how I'd like to. I Start my last 2 semesters of college on aug 20th, so time to do stuff is going to be at a premium over the next few months.

Im patiently waiting for a set of used aam downp's to show up in the classifieds. hehe, trying to stretch remaining funds in z build account to buy a bbk, dp's, and clutch ^ ^

Honda2Nismo

I may have missed it, but did you put a different oil pump in? I hope this works out for you!

Try and heed the advice from members like Sylvan, there is credibility to back up being a smart ***.

The boosted VQ35 world is not nearly as forgiving as other platforms.. just remember that when you're taking in 40+ years of racing advice.

bgant3

yea. Got the Revup Pump.

This past weekend bought 3' downpipes from Yuniel3. So those should arrive this weekend. Other than that, all I need is Clutch, Electronic Boostcontrol, a/f gauge and maybe oil temp gauge, & Tune.

All I want is high 4xx, low 5xx to the wheels DD. This Z is the fastest car Ive ever driven as it is now. So Im sure Ill be perfectly satisfied.

Starting in September I get a major pay upgrade as my bread company takes over rights to bilo brand bread. So Im gonna work like a dog in September into early October, then take a week off and get everything done. In the meantime, may do the akebono bbk upgrade. Just spent $406 on school books today, So gonna look around for a deal probably in next couple weeks.

Nismo350z#0310

iTrader: (1)

I hate to be a broken record but alot of new people to the FI world don't realize how important the fuel system is. I noticed that you said you are getting injectors but you are going to need an upgraded fuel system, most preferably a full return system. From experience, the first thing that will began to hinder your hp numbers after 420 or so whp is the fuel system because the stock system is not built to handle alot of power.

OP I hope your reading suggestions because this is a must for you to get the numbers you are looking for.

bgant3

sure thing bud. i have it on my list...i already have the upgraded fuel lines that connect to the fuel rails.....the rest is number 4 on my "to get" list:

4. CJM Fuel Correction & FPR & Pump Outfit Fitting

along with gauges etc etc...pretty much electronics and fuel is all thats left.

shakuya88

Best of luck to you! I'm in the middle of a similar project right now. Just made my short block into a long block today...I feel accomplished! I hear ya on the "z build fund" I'll need a raise at work to finish this anytime soon.

freddys 350z

What size wheels, tires and suspension do you got to handle that 500hp?

djamps

iTrader: (1)

What was the issue/resolution with the bearing clearances? Or did I miss it? I've read that aftermarket mearings (sometimes OEM too) are too 'wide' and need to be shaved down a bit. Wondering if that was your issue.

And +1 on the fuel return and FPR.

bgant3

HELP!!

1. What gauges are the best for F.i. Meaning which ones i cant live without? I plan to buy gauge pod/w 3 gauges. I have what i was planning to get below.


2. PMAS or MAF GT? I know CIN, the place I plan to take my car to for tuning suggested the mafgt with Osiris. But what are the pros/cons of using one or the other. This will be a daily driven car. IF this topic has been discussed please point in right direction, so i can read up.

This is literally my "left to buy list"....list So small, but so very important
Osiris Uprev /w Tune @CIN-----------($700) (VERY Last Thing To Buy; Weekly Pay)
- MAF GT or PMAS= $350/$195 or try find used on my350z
- A/F guage/oil/egt with Pod: $140
- Electronic BC: try find used on my350z
- CJM Fuel Correction & FPR & Pump Outfit Fitting) ------- $290
- Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump-------- $99




OAN, I also got my akebono calipers a couple weeks ago. gonna piece together a bbk. rotors, pads, etc later. Gon try to finish the above first. really #2 is important..lol. if i can save that $155 to put on something else, would help.

Thanks

jninja26

iTrader: (1)

I went with the Aeromotive 340 pump for my turbo kit. It's a better quality pump. Also pods should probably include: Boost, A/F, and temp

Eno

iTrader: (1)

I've heard recently (two days ago) from a shop with a pro tuner for uprev that Uprev GT is hard to get a hold of... back ordered for a couple weeks. PMAS will run higher HP- but Uprev GT has fewer resolution issues down in the lower load areas. Not sure how you're planning to drive your car... but if you're shooting for 500hp- GT is probably the target. However- if the guy tuning your ride is comfortable with PMAS... that may be a more timely option.

Anyone else have an opinion on 500 with a 255? I literally don't know- but I know when I was looking at 500+ the 340 was recommended. Don't skimp on fuel- another repeated lesson.