wow buddy! Im sorry to hear that but now I guess its time for a built block.

 

how many miles did you have? and did you beat on the motor before the install? Asking because I am installing the same kit in a few weeks.

 

90,000 and I mean I drove the car. Lol.

 

define....blown motor. What is blown and what needs to be done. Is it rods, bearings, piston rings,,,what is broken. Shortblock swap or complete long block. Call Dynosty and Import parts pro and have them both fight each other on price till you get a slick deal.


Engine packages are customizable to match your goals. Here are two samples of common configurations:

Stage 1 Short Block packages start at $2765 and include CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, ACL Bearings, machining, align hone, balance, blueprint and pro assembly!

Stage 1 Long Block packages start at $3690 and include the Stage1 Short Block, ARP L19 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, Cometic Head Gaskets, Mill & Clean Heads and assembly.



https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5107...ur-engine.html

http://www.importpartspro.com/shblpa.html

 

Think a piston is slapping.

 

I'm sure he called dynosty as soon as it happened. I'll be interested to hear if the motor just let go or it was detonation.

GL OP. I would recommend getting a built block, and if you can afford the long block, do it. Assembly isn't terrible but having eddie do it for you will save you headache. Also if you get a built block I'd suggest getting dynosty's billet girdle while you're down there. It's not a neccisary mod obviously, but it's a really nice piece and if you every want the motor to be able to rev out i'd recommend it.

Also though I do have an oem shortblock that's about to go up for sale. Its 44,037 miles on it and the car was never really beaten on. Only removed for this turbo build. It's in great condition... the cylinder walls still have nice cross hatching on them. PM me if you're interested. Only sucky part of the deal would be shipping (lol i've shipped a block to kentucky before).

 

I don't think it blew because of the tune. But my injectors were at a 100%. I just don't think Hal would have let me leave there with a bad tune.

 

Sorry to hear man. I cant see Hal putting anything out the door that wasnt 100%

 

piston slap isn't a blown motor. does the car start and run? if so then not blown motor. The noise could be rod knock which could be from an old damaged rod bearing. 90k on a motor is enough that it would be pretty loose and higher power on top of that could wear it out fast.

 

no such thing.

Your car could be laying cross members completely flat on the ground and nothing of this kit will touch the ground. Therefore, nobody can be too low for something that is above the mechanical parts of the cars.


When will people stop thinking that this hangs below anything in the car? You can physically see as well as listen to all the people that own it say that it is ABOVE THE CROSS MEMBER IN THE CAR.

 

Wow, that sucks, didn't last long at all

 

To add to this, I have recently taken an extra step to bring the crossover pipe up even higher, as this was the lowest part of the kit. It is now above the front subframe. The turbo was never even close to being even with the subrframe.

 

The motor sounds horrible! There was a video taken, and about the top of third it starts smoking bad. I came to a stop and the motor was just riddling it sounded so bad! Then the idle was going up and down and then it died.

 

The car no longer runs and it's no rod knock.

 

they will never learn jeff =/

 

hmm, your description sounded like a rod bearing going out which would cause rod knock.

i know, it's sad.

 

I feel bad for you.. But you already have 90K miles and you want to run 500whp? I think even the 450whp (w/ dyno jet correction) is a little to high IMO. either way, FI is really a crap shoot. You can run below 400whp and still blow your motor. Also why will Hal let you leave with a tune with 100% IDC? Is that right? what if the temp get a little colder and the ECU/Haltech need to add more fuel? I have ran my car above 90% IDC for 5yrs though but I have closely monitor the weather. If the temp goes below 50F then I switch to my 7psi boost map to compensate for the lack of fuel... Good Luck

Edit, also was the knock control enabled/configured on your Haltech? This is why i think having an EMS that has knock control important. especially if you like to run above 90% IDC...

 

i really doubt Hal left your tune set to 100% IDC because you would be running really lean towards redline. And even then, you would had to ping pretty hard.

Sounds like the motor already was worn and some hard pulls close to mechanical limits was the last straw.

Exact reason why we all say, if you dont have the money to rebuild, dont FI. Hopefully, money isnt an issue and you are back running ASAP.

 

We are looking at built motor options, but I encouraged Jonathan to look at possible reason for failure first. We made over 50 dyno pulls on the car, and I went for a ride with Jonathan after the tune to verify street pulls as well. The power production seemed low for the boost, and we also had to diagnose a fuel problem during the tune that was related to a faulty pump install. Current thoughts are the motor could have been in poor shape prior to turbo install and this accelerated it's death, and/or the fuel pump was damaged and shifted afr. Either way, we are working with lowandsteezy to get it back on the road, and hopefully with more power than ever!

 

edit: not worth arguing. I've done plenty of reading and searching. Let's just say the roads around here sometimes have crowns with peaks that push asphalt up into the center of the car when the front end goes over it and drops. I scrape all sorts of things higher than the crossmember all the time.

The kit is beautiful, and is great for 99% of the world. It's just not for me or the roads I drive on.

OP - really hate it for you man.