lowandsteezy

I'm not so sure what I'm gonna do yet. There may be a turn key turbo setup forsale this week.

lowandsteezy

I didnt even get to enjoy this. I made 3 total redline runs with this setup after the tune.

ibelonginprison

iTrader: (1)

Just remember, whatever is broken can always be fixed. It really sucks you didn't get to enjoy it though. I realize that's the worst feeling.


I have a cylinder that's losing compression and has 50% leakdown past the rings, for whatever reason. I'm getting a stock VQ to swap out over a weekend, then build this one slowly over the next year.

Always something to think about. I don't know about prices in your area, but I can pick one up around here for under $1500 all day long, and near a G note if I look long enough.

Edit: although a full Dynosty long block for about 2K more is certainly very, very, very enticing.

jdepe

iTrader: (8)

Dang i shouldve waited and bought yours, lol jk. Man just hang in there and get a built short block. you already spent the 6k, why not spend another 3k and enjoy it. cheaper then trying to part out and sell the car.

mgrotel

iTrader: (3)

built, low compression, bottom end. being built and low compression, think of the boost levels you can run! stop thinking and just do it man!

Johnnyone

iTrader: (4)

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/3069709022.html

engine forsale not too far from u.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

I highly doubt it's just going to be just 3k. Even if he choose to go with a short block I bet after everything is said and done we are talking about another $6K + here if Dynosty will do everything.. For DYI then it should be cheaper..

ibelonginprison

iTrader: (1)

I understand how he feels though. A lot of us can't just "flop out a credit card" and go to town with mods. I mean, I COULD, but... I have a wife, two more cars, a mortgage payment, savings, retirement etc. that I have to think about and weigh all the options. Everything I do to my car I pay cash for. That's just one of my things, if I literally can't go to the bank and take out hundred dollar bills to pay for it, it doesn't get done.

lowandsteezy - just breathe deep and take a day or two off from it. The stress you're putting yourself through right now isn't worth it. I think half of us at some point in time have said "f*ck it, I'm done." I know I've reached that point a couple times with just about every car I've ever built, but... you can't just give in that easy.

I think after you've taken a step back, had a chance to think all your options through, you'll be able to make a good decision for how to get your car back on the road and boosting again.

The FI route isn't easy, but you're certainly part of an elite group if you stick with it and make it work! You have the support from all of the guys here. We want to see you get your car back up and going as soon as possible.

Boosted Performance

iTrader: (14)

Here is a dyno with just a basic Dynosty short block build:



Stock DE heads, stock cams, stock intake manifold...no plenum spacer, just a simple Dynosty short block build. This was on pump gas, and a set of aftermarket headers.

Turbo: Precision 6765, T4 .81 a/r. (larger .96 a/r turbine would be needed for more power)

Boost: 14psi at 3750rpm and 16psi 5000rpm and up.

I think this was the first production ST kit to get over 500whp on THAT dyno using pump gas.
Momentum made about the same power, but with a lot more work done to the engine/heads/IM.

The 6266 T4 turbo is just as capable, and would do just as well at that boost level.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

/\ is that with the same 6266 turbo? what PSI was that dyno?

ibelonginprison

iTrader: (1)

yeah, I texted that guy when the ad came up. LOL

Depending on where in KY he is, that could be upwards of 350-400 miles or more for him.

The guy said that the motor is in questionable condition. It's not a "drop in and go" motor.

mgrotel

iTrader: (3)

im the same way, and i wont mod a car heavily until the car is paid off too. i hate car payments and debt in general. and i agree a full bottom end will run more than 3000$. i dont remember specifics but mine went like this:

used block 700
cosworth pistons 700
eagle rods 425
= 1825 already and sill need gaskets, bearings, main bolts, oil pump, water pump, machining, and assembly. not to mention i got the rods and pistons in the classifieds, by i only bought unused parts.

lowandsteezy

My car is paid for.. Doesn't look like I'm getting a built block, trying to find another low mile stock motor, probably sell the turbo kit. I can't seem to find anyone to buy my wheels so I can keep the turbo kit. And I need to do something soon... Should of had a daily instead of trying to use a modded car as a daily.

mgrotel

iTrader: (3)

here is my advice, and this only holds true if you still want to keep the car and boost. but if it were me, i would hold off on buying the low mileage motor and use that cash to buy an older daily driver. then you can take your time and build up the current vq that you have and put it all together, all while having a daily to use every day. my opinion

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

so this is your daily driver? yikes... i'd go buy a cheap honda for 2 or 3000 bucks. use that for the time being. that way you have time to decide whether to part out, sell or rebuild without the time pressures. Without a teardown, you dont even know what the problem really is though. Have you dropped your oil pan?

rebuilding with another stock motor can just leave you in the same position down the road.

lowandsteezy

I'm going drop the oil pan in a little bit. If I get another stock motor I'm not putting the turbo kit back on. My luck it would blow in 5 days. I'm sure when I drop the oil pan I'll find out part of what's wrong.

mgrotel

iTrader: (3)

would certainly not put boost on another stock motor, that isnt what any of us are telling you, at least not that i read. buy a dd, take your time and build up the vq that you have with forged pistons and rods, and maybe 8.5:1 compression. then later when you get it all done, put that motor back in your car along with the turbo and be happy. you then have a racecar and a dd.

ibelonginprison

iTrader: (1)

*guilty*
I was the one that said drop a stock motor in it for now. I forgot he wasn't doing the work himself. I was just thinking not to go for the same power as before.

For my situation it's a no brainer. Find a stock VQ for cheap, toss it in over a long weekend, and get back going. Then you have a VQ sitting there that you can tear down and build however you need to.

But if you're not doing your own work, that does change the game a little. Labor certainly stacks things up much more quickly. At that point you probably just want to do it once and call it a day.

I still say relax and think it over for a few days before having a fire-sale. I remember the first motor I blew years and years ago. I freaked.
Now, I just have to take a few steps back and try to think things through with a clear head.

The number one thing anyone with FI can tell you.... "don't panic."

Eno

iTrader: (1)

Doing your own work certainly changes the odds. I was lucky in that I had some money available to get it torn down and rebuilt... I spent a lot of time humming and hawing over the built block idea- but my block was in good shape so we stayed the course.

Depending on someone else to do the work... you're right- man it can add up quick. Hence why in every dreamer thread you see, guys are in here saying "don't go FI with a dd." This is why they say it... because WHEN- not if- things go south it buys you some time to make the right decision.

You've spent full price on the best single turbo kit on the market- you go to sell it now you might get half that back... your motor is blown but you don't know why yet so you can sell that and get a bit for it- and buy another engine and get it put in...

Without another car to drive it seems the path forward is obvious. Cost you a couple grand- closer to 3... if you get a decent return on the used parts and a new block put in for a reasonable cost... and walk away having learned an expensive lesson.

If you spend the money building the block- then you have the engine you need to get the most out of the kit... then it's the OTHER parts you need to start spending on...because hey- you didn't just build the block to take 20 psi just to sit around 8-9psi... then it's the (enter power mod here)... then it's the (enter power mod here)... and the (enter power mod here)... Sure- your buy back cost to get into the FI game is 3-5k or so but that's where the REAL spending begins. All the little things that add up VERY quickly.

(yikes).

I think fate has issued you a warning shot- and though I'm not telling you to panic and make a decision in the next 10 minutes... they don't call it gambling because you always win!

bigcloud

iTrader: (7)

Sorry to hear your motor blew man. This is why I'm against any FI on a Z. It just wasn't engineered for it. Granted you can engineer a kit to work on it, but it's still a 50/50 shot at the motor popping stock or built. Yes there were/are great stories for people that have thousands of miles on their stock blocks/built blocks. There are however your fair share of popped motors both stock and built. That's why I've settled on finding a nicely used 2010 GT-R. Built for boost and stock it's got plenty of power. Keeping the Z in case I want to get work done on the GT-R. Best of both worlds IMHO.

OP good luck in getting your car back on the road. I hope you can do it without taking out a 3rd mortgage on your home.