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Kinetixs velocity with fi comments

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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 01:36 PM
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Default Kinetixs velocity with fi comments

Anybody fi running the kinetixs velocity manifold? What do you think. It feels like it defiantly pulls harder after 5500 rpms. I know it has threads already but most of the talk is na and not much fi
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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I own the kinetix as do several friends.
So, four things that I can tell you, and it's about the best I can offer:

1. I like mine
2. My friends like theirs
3. I can't speak to the power differences between the cosworth, kinetix, or just a plain plenum spacer... but our cars make good power. Mine is 402whp on 9psi procharger, a friend with a 9psi vortech has longtubes, the kinetix and exhaust, puts down 454whp, and several other turbo guys I know have it and make good power.
4. They crack. Often.

Good luck to you, kind sir, on your quest for knowledge.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 02:24 PM
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#4 is a deal buster for me..
at only 9psi, having a cracking plenum is unnaceptable for this guy.

I imagine ill be upwards of 15-20psi. Sticking w stock n a spacer.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bmccann101
#4 is a deal buster for me..
at only 9psi, having a cracking plenum is unnaceptable for this guy.
It is for most people, as it should be. Haven't cracked mine yet. But I know three people that have cracked theirs. One twice, one about 6 times (he's in the 15-20psi range) and one only once.

Then again, I can have it welded up for about $30 locally if/when mine does let go.

Originally Posted by bmccann101
I imagine ill be upwards of 15-20psi. Sticking w stock n a spacer.
At that pressure, I'd look at the Cosworth. Supposedly a little better "durability." But, having not owned one, I couldn't offer much insight for you. I'm sure there are plenty of guys in here that can offer personal experiences with it.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 02:34 PM
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i have one and no cracks even when i accidentially had the wastegate tuned too high and made a few 15 psi pulls, most of my driving was at 10 psi. where exactly is it cracking? everything on mine is pretty damn beefy i would imagine cracking the throttle body first
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jerryd87
i have one and no cracks even when i accidentially had the wastegate tuned too high and made a few 15 psi pulls, most of my driving was at 10 psi. where exactly is it cracking? everything on mine is pretty damn beefy i would imagine cracking the throttle body first
Mine is sturdy so far. I've hit 10psi a few times according to the log.
The others are cracking at the base of the runners I believe.

My Vortech friend says that his cracked when he gave it "surprise boost." lol
Downshifted into 3rd and punched it immediately. Bypass valve closed, boost jumped to 8psi in a split second.

Just makes me more careful with mine.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 04:55 PM
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You'd be better off with the stock plenum and a spacer for either NA or FI applications. Just get the plenum polished if you want some bling. The Kinetix SSV and the newer Velocity version are both crap for anything other than show. They don't make any power and have a bad history of cracking under light to medium boost.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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+1 stock plenum is fine for making power... spacer optional. I dyno'd exactly the same with or without a spacer.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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i never found anything on that i just found a bunch of stuff that the newer tapered version showed losses in NA but gains in high rpm FI, i do still intend to do cams just not right now so it could be a benefit. not to mention the stock manifold is a ***** to try and add direct port meth and a aftermarket AIT sensor
Originally Posted by RudeG_v2.0
You'd be better off with the stock plenum and a spacer for either NA or FI applications. Just get the plenum polished if you want some bling. The Kinetix SSV and the newer Velocity version are both crap for anything other than show. They don't make any power and have a bad history of cracking under light to medium boost.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jerryd87
i never found anything on that i just found a bunch of stuff that the newer tapered version showed losses in NA but gains in high rpm FI, i do still intend to do cams just not right now so it could be a benefit. not to mention the stock manifold is a ***** to try and add direct port meth and a aftermarket AIT sensor
I lost power NA with the original SSV. I haven't seen any compelling evidence that the newer tapered Velocity version is significantly better. If you want gains in a high RPM FI setup, the billet CJM intake manifold is the best option.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 04:54 AM
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Where does it crack? Can you guys post a picture? Is it the welds not holding??
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by RudeG_v2.0
the billet CJM intake manifold is the best option.
FAPFAPFAPFPFAPFAPFAP

everytime that name comes up, I jizz myself, and then I fap. It's just wrong.


If it was half the cost there's no doubt in my mind I'd have one. But for 3k? i'll stay with my 200$ spacer 1/2" spacer.

You wouldn't happen to know the runner design, would you? I'd love to have my buddy recreate one.... (we're just about to drop the motor back in... might just have to get him to fab some stuff with the excess aluminum we have hehehehehe).

Not even 1 hour later I've got an idea together. just need to get to a computer with solidworks!

Last edited by Resmarted; Jun 15, 2012 at 05:35 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Resmarted
FAPFAPFAPFPFAPFAPFAP

everytime that name comes up, I jizz myself, and then I fap. It's just wrong.


If it was half the cost there's no doubt in my mind I'd have one. But for 3k? i'll stay with my 200$ spacer 1/2" spacer.

You wouldn't happen to know the runner design, would you? I'd love to have my buddy recreate one.... (we're just about to drop the motor back in... might just have to get him to fab some stuff with the excess aluminum we have hehehehehe).
You can see the runner design in these pics.








Last edited by RudeG_v2.0; Jun 15, 2012 at 05:42 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 06:03 AM
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Yep I jizzed a little too.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by RudeG_v2.0
You can see the runner design in these pics.







Thank you rude. Seriously. That's awesome.

Damn I'm really going to have to put up a build thread soon... maybe once the cars running.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by RudeG_v2.0
You can see the runner design in these pics.








Mother of all that is Holy and pure on this earth.....

That's magnificent.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 09:11 AM
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alot harder for the methanol/ait setup im trying to run though, and ALOT more expensive too lol. theres a couple dynos showing gains on fi but i think alot of people have stayed away due to the inferior design of the original.

as for the cjm........yah price lol

Originally Posted by RudeG_v2.0
I lost power NA with the original SSV. I haven't seen any compelling evidence that the newer tapered Velocity version is significantly better. If you want gains in a high RPM FI setup, the billet CJM intake manifold is the best option.

Last edited by jerryd87; Jun 15, 2012 at 09:13 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 09:26 AM
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Charles should bring his other version back with the TB neck in the stock position and have enough units cast to turn a profit at a ~$1000/unit. I think he will sell them all.

The Kinetix "show" welds are a known failure point. My understanding is that they can re-weld with a bead and it'll hold, but it'd be up to you to grind and polish it so it looks decent.

Last edited by rcdash; Jun 15, 2012 at 09:32 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 09:45 AM
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which is too bad i cant use it as is.. cuz it looks fantastic. .but yes.. ^^^ Id certainly buy one.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 09:51 AM
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yah i dont give a **** i was honestly thinking of matte blacking mine, not a big fan of shiny
Originally Posted by rcdash
Charles should bring his other version back with the TB neck in the stock position and have enough units cast to turn a profit at a ~$1000/unit. I think he will sell them all.

The Kinetix "show" welds are a known failure point. My understanding is that they can re-weld with a bead and it'll hold, but it'd be up to you to grind and polish it so it looks decent.
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