rcdash v2.0
08-26-2012, 06:37 PM
#44
Raj, both the FMIC and oil reservoirs look very familiar. I am sure that the guys at Dynosty put the small check valves I use on the turbo inlet as well. The combo of check valve and reservoir is proven to work very well, and I have sold a few kits to the APS ST guys as well. Always get a "thank you, smoking problem is now gone" PM after they install it.
Raj one of the things I always thought was cool about your car was the fact it was a 5AT, go 6MT and you might make more power but you'll be slower.....leave it as is!!!
Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; 08-26-2012 at 06:41 PM.
08-26-2012, 08:56 PM
#45
Looking at all transmission options 
From most proven, least expensive to well, less so...
1. 5AT rebuild, might still get stuck at ~550 whp (in fact, think I will), ~$4k all done
2. 6MT swap, could probably max out turbos, interior would look stock, but doubt I'll be able to keep up with stock GTRs, let alone lightly modded ones, ~$10k all done
3. 4l80E swap. High hp potential, but plenty of failures also; interior finish might not be to my taste, turbo kit might need to be significantly reworked to get transmission to fit. With controller, drive shaft, new mounts, etc, looking well past $10k now
4. Quaife QBE69G (http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qbe69g-0), made for the Z, sequential transmission, only rated at 750 BHP (almost there already), $14k just for the gearbox.
5. GTR's GR6 by Borg Warner, rebuilt with Dodson parts, or rebuilt Getrag dual clutch transmission (stock 7DCI700 is rated at 516 ft-lbs), looking close to $40k. Now I'd just be throwing money away for a one-off, first-ever project that may or may not work. If I knew it would work, I might think about it. Someone needs to develop a proper aftermarket dual clutch transmission!
Still undecided... The car is plenty fun as it is. Might wait till next winter. DCT options by then may be more practical!
From most proven, least expensive to well, less so...
1. 5AT rebuild, might still get stuck at ~550 whp (in fact, think I will), ~$4k all done
2. 6MT swap, could probably max out turbos, interior would look stock, but doubt I'll be able to keep up with stock GTRs, let alone lightly modded ones, ~$10k all done
3. 4l80E swap. High hp potential, but plenty of failures also; interior finish might not be to my taste, turbo kit might need to be significantly reworked to get transmission to fit. With controller, drive shaft, new mounts, etc, looking well past $10k now
4. Quaife QBE69G (http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qbe69g-0), made for the Z, sequential transmission, only rated at 750 BHP (almost there already), $14k just for the gearbox.
5. GTR's GR6 by Borg Warner, rebuilt with Dodson parts, or rebuilt Getrag dual clutch transmission (stock 7DCI700 is rated at 516 ft-lbs), looking close to $40k. Now I'd just be throwing money away for a one-off, first-ever project that may or may not work. If I knew it would work, I might think about it. Someone needs to develop a proper aftermarket dual clutch transmission!
Still undecided... The car is plenty fun as it is. Might wait till next winter. DCT options by then may be more practical!
Last edited by rcdash; 08-26-2012 at 09:10 PM.
08-26-2012, 11:01 PM
#46
Looking at all transmission options
From most proven, least expensive to well, less so...
1. 5AT rebuild, might still get stuck at ~550 whp (in fact, think I will), ~$4k all done
2. 6MT swap, could probably max out turbos, interior would look stock, but doubt I'll be able to keep up with stock GTRs, let alone lightly modded ones, ~$10k all done
3. 4l80E swap. High hp potential, but plenty of failures also; interior finish might not be to my taste, turbo kit might need to be significantly reworked to get transmission to fit. With controller, drive shaft, new mounts, etc, looking well past $10k now
4. Quaife QBE69G (http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qbe69g-0), made for the Z, sequential transmission, only rated at 750 BHP (almost there already), $14k just for the gearbox.
5. GTR's GR6 by Borg Warner, rebuilt with Dodson parts, or rebuilt Getrag dual clutch transmission (stock 7DCI700 is rated at 516 ft-lbs), looking close to $40k. Now I'd just be throwing money away for a one-off, first-ever project that may or may not work. If I knew it would work, I might think about it. Someone needs to develop a proper aftermarket dual clutch transmission!
Still undecided... The car is plenty fun as it is. Might wait till next winter. DCT options by then may be more practical!
From most proven, least expensive to well, less so...
1. 5AT rebuild, might still get stuck at ~550 whp (in fact, think I will), ~$4k all done
2. 6MT swap, could probably max out turbos, interior would look stock, but doubt I'll be able to keep up with stock GTRs, let alone lightly modded ones, ~$10k all done
3. 4l80E swap. High hp potential, but plenty of failures also; interior finish might not be to my taste, turbo kit might need to be significantly reworked to get transmission to fit. With controller, drive shaft, new mounts, etc, looking well past $10k now
4. Quaife QBE69G (http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qbe69g-0), made for the Z, sequential transmission, only rated at 750 BHP (almost there already), $14k just for the gearbox.
5. GTR's GR6 by Borg Warner, rebuilt with Dodson parts, or rebuilt Getrag dual clutch transmission (stock 7DCI700 is rated at 516 ft-lbs), looking close to $40k. Now I'd just be throwing money away for a one-off, first-ever project that may or may not work. If I knew it would work, I might think about it. Someone needs to develop a proper aftermarket dual clutch transmission!
Still undecided... The car is plenty fun as it is. Might wait till next winter. DCT options by then may be more practical!
I'm not sure where you got 10k for a manual swap, but in retrospect I think I should have gone with some kind of built automatic instead. So much faster than any driver with any stick.
Last edited by Resmarted; 08-26-2012 at 11:02 PM.
08-27-2012, 05:43 AM
#47
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Built auto's are extremely fun. I miss how my 5AT TT was. Maybe that's just the newbie driver talking, but it was a blast.
Awesome build man. Saw the car up at dynosty a few times. You're an electronic guru! Looks real good though, especially he brake/wheel combo. Congrats on the numbers. Hope you figure out your tranny solution!
P.S. I do see my pos in the back :P
Awesome build man. Saw the car up at dynosty a few times. You're an electronic guru! Looks real good though, especially he brake/wheel combo. Congrats on the numbers. Hope you figure out your tranny solution!
P.S. I do see my pos in the back :P
Last edited by abushong504; 08-27-2012 at 05:47 AM.
08-27-2012, 09:20 AM
#48
You shouldn't have any trouble beating stock-ish GTR's with a 6MT. With my measly 420whp (and lots of practice) I beat stock 2011's at the strip with relative ease. With 600+whp it would be game over.
Last edited by djamps; 08-27-2012 at 09:31 AM.
08-27-2012, 10:23 AM
#49
^Stock GTRs are mid 11 sec cars. A GTR with exhaust mods and a tune is going to be putting down 550 whp. You underestimate how fast and consistent they are clicking through the gears... (a good 6MT driver that is willing to no lift shift can keep the turbos spooled but it takes a perfect run - nothing easy about that, for me 
)
)
08-27-2012, 10:41 AM
#50
^Stock GTRs are mid 11 sec cars. A GTR with exhaust mods and a tune is going to be putting down 550 whp. You underestimate how fast and consistent they are clicking through the gears... (a good 6MT driver that is willing to no lift shift can keep the turbos spooled but it takes a perfect run - nothing easy about that, for me )
)
08-27-2012, 03:38 PM
#53
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Shameless plug, I got a pretty mild mileage re5r05a (44k miles, 04 Z) that never got beat on, up for sale with a nice clutch pack kit bnib... PM me if you want.
I'm not sure where you got 10k for a manual swap, but in retrospect I think I should have gone with some kind of built automatic instead. So much faster than any driver with any stick.
I'm not sure where you got 10k for a manual swap, but in retrospect I think I should have gone with some kind of built automatic instead. So much faster than any driver with any stick.
The 10k was probably total to include a shop doing all the work. Labor hours add up fast.
08-27-2012, 08:43 PM
#54
If it were me I would stay where your at, rebuild it if you need to turn it down a bit if required. You want a 6mt I'll trade you...I recently got a promotion and I live in Calgary and work down town most days I drive my truck because it just sucks to drive the 6mt in bumper to bumper traffic.
08-28-2012, 01:31 PM
#56
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Amen to that! ^^^
Pretty impressive raj- I remain interested in how our trans will exist through the torque though we have different built versions. I think the shameless plug comes in in the event he blows one and needs to send it off he can hot swap in a stock one and keep driving the car. I keep a lazy eye on that trans.
As it is I just got back from a charity meet and was able to lay into it for the first time in ideal conditions-
Then I was able to sit in traffic, go through town- ill give it to IPT... The trans shifts hard when it needs to and smooth when I'm not laying into it.
yeah... AT FTW. (unless you're shooting for >550). Raj- I understand why you're staying AT or at least the desire to do so. If rebuilding is only 3k or so (once already built) then I think you should stay the course. Best to refine what you have then just push beyond IMO.
Pretty impressive raj- I remain interested in how our trans will exist through the torque though we have different built versions. I think the shameless plug comes in in the event he blows one and needs to send it off he can hot swap in a stock one and keep driving the car. I keep a lazy eye on that trans.
As it is I just got back from a charity meet and was able to lay into it for the first time in ideal conditions-
Then I was able to sit in traffic, go through town- ill give it to IPT... The trans shifts hard when it needs to and smooth when I'm not laying into it.
yeah... AT FTW. (unless you're shooting for >550). Raj- I understand why you're staying AT or at least the desire to do so. If rebuilding is only 3k or so (once already built) then I think you should stay the course. Best to refine what you have then just push beyond IMO.
08-31-2012, 03:47 PM
#57
At issues
Rc..I took am 5 at..considered the th400, 4l80e but they are heeaavvy..Im now looking into the th2004r...it can be built to 1000 hp...extremeautomatics-lonnie..great guy, explains it all...I see where master shift also has a new kit out that allows old, non electric transmissions, paddle shift...
Th 2004r has overdrive and better gear spreads than th400. its light, about 125 pounds built. Its about 3000 without a core (cheaper than building our trans).
Car is at SFR now for TT install since GTM **** on me..Tim is fabbing up a tube front end that holds IC, 2 coolers, radiator all on the core so when you unbolt the core, all the elements come with it making getting to the engine a breeze.
If anyone wants a fully built IPT transmission with 0 miles on it, I may be selling it to get the th2004r. Call tim at SFR-hes has the trans.
Th 2004r has overdrive and better gear spreads than th400. its light, about 125 pounds built. Its about 3000 without a core (cheaper than building our trans).
Car is at SFR now for TT install since GTM **** on me..Tim is fabbing up a tube front end that holds IC, 2 coolers, radiator all on the core so when you unbolt the core, all the elements come with it making getting to the engine a breeze.
If anyone wants a fully built IPT transmission with 0 miles on it, I may be selling it to get the th2004r. Call tim at SFR-hes has the trans.
08-31-2012, 04:12 PM
#58
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If it were me I would stay where your at, rebuild it if you need to turn it down a bit if required. You want a 6mt I'll trade you...I recently got a promotion and I live in Calgary and work down town most days I drive my truck because it just sucks to drive the 6mt in bumper to bumper traffic.
Honestly, I wouldn't drive a nice expensive built car to work every day for a lot more reasons than being a 6mt in traffic. Wear and tear is number 1 for me.
. its light, about 125 pounds built. Its about 3000 without a core (cheaper than building our trans).
Tim is fabbing up a tube front end that holds IC, 2 coolers, radiator all on the core so when you unbolt the core, all the elements come with it making getting to the engine a breeze.
Tim is fabbing up a tube front end that holds IC, 2 coolers, radiator all on the core so when you unbolt the core, all the elements come with it making getting to the engine a breeze.
Our front core support all unbolts together and everything comes off as one unit from factory. Just mount your intercooler to the oem core and the intercooler would stay as one unit as well. Never understood why people took the radiator and everything out when the core all unbolts together with radiator and a/c condenser intact.
08-31-2012, 05:20 PM
#59
Rc..I took am 5 at..considered the th400, 4l80e but they are heeaavvy..Im now looking into the th2004r...it can be built to 1000 hp...extremeautomatics-lonnie..great guy, explains it all...I see where master shift also has a new kit out that allows old, non electric transmissions, paddle shift...
Th 2004r has overdrive and better gear spreads than th400. its light, about 125 pounds built. Its about 3000 without a core (cheaper than building our trans).
Car is at SFR now for TT install since GTM **** on me..Tim is fabbing up a tube front end that holds IC, 2 coolers, radiator all on the core so when you unbolt the core, all the elements come with it making getting to the engine a breeze.
If anyone wants a fully built IPT transmission with 0 miles on it, I may be selling it to get the th2004r. Call tim at SFR-hes has the trans.
Th 2004r has overdrive and better gear spreads than th400. its light, about 125 pounds built. Its about 3000 without a core (cheaper than building our trans).
Car is at SFR now for TT install since GTM **** on me..Tim is fabbing up a tube front end that holds IC, 2 coolers, radiator all on the core so when you unbolt the core, all the elements come with it making getting to the engine a breeze.
If anyone wants a fully built IPT transmission with 0 miles on it, I may be selling it to get the th2004r. Call tim at SFR-hes has the trans.
If someone is claiming a "small, light, and cheap" auto trans can hold big power, they're probably selling you snake oil.
Last edited by RudeG_v2.0; 08-31-2012 at 07:53 PM.
09-01-2012, 06:51 AM
#60
sure if you want an AT close to 200lbs...th400 only has 3 speeds so you have to go with 4l80e..very large and more expensive...yes, there is a less than 200 lb hi rwd AT..as I said previously, check out extreme automatics...4 speed overdrive th400r..light, hi whp capable, same bolt pattern as th400 so spacer kits are the same..hey dont knock it if you havent tried it..just offereing a suggestion that no one else has tried....seems logical to me..all pluses, no minuses..plus instead of another DD, you actually get to use the money you spent on you Z..why build it if you can't use it.....
http://extremeautomatics.com/transmissions/2004r.html
Can use paddle shifters for non electric transsmissions now ie.e th200, 350, 400
http://mastershift.com/
at least this is the route I am considering now.
http://extremeautomatics.com/transmissions/2004r.html
Can use paddle shifters for non electric transsmissions now ie.e th200, 350, 400
http://mastershift.com/
at least this is the route I am considering now.