Hi guys, well my clutchmasters fx400 started slipping, so I want to try something new. It sounded like a cement mixer anyways. Ive tried searching but cant find much recent info on clutches, as in whats the best bang for buck around $1k. I currently make ~400ft-lb torque, and I want to build my bottom end, so lets say ill need at least 600ft-lb of holding power. Comfort isnt a big concern as I dont daily it, but I wouldnt mind, the fx400 kinda sucked in that department.

So far looking at RPS max street or 6 puck, southbend (not sure which) and lastly the z1 twin plate. Thoughts? Suggestions? Single vs twinplate?

Replaceability of the clutch disk would be nice, clutchmasters charges a lot or i would have just replaced my current one.

Thanks

 

For 600tq you really need a multi-disc setup -- I'll let others chime in on recommendations. If you keep it at 400tq you can get away with just about anything -- JWT would get my vote which is what I currently use and is pretty much like stock. I ran a 6-puck initially but it was terrible to drive in traffic wore out pretty quickly.

 

I'm running a Spec twin disk, set me back about 1200 bucks but rebuilds are pretty reasonable when that time comes and its reated for ~900 ft/lbs. drives like stock mostly, and no cement mixer chatter that you get from a pucked clutch.

SS-Trim

 

Thanks for the replies

@djamps Yea I like the sounds of the JWT if I was not planning to do anything else.... I think a twin clutch is probably the best idea

@tony Hmmm that sounds pretty good. WHich trim option did you get? Where did you pick your Spec up from?

edit: woops, didnt see the spec link, so you got the SS.

 

carbonetics or os giken twin

 

Any idea the differences besides holding power for different spec trims, longevity wise? Is the E trim going to damage my thrust bearings since it has so much holding power?

 

Carbonetics Twin Disc worked for me. Its street able until you get it really hot, then it gets grab by, but it always held.

 

I have an RPS twin, but moving to a Monster Twin. It's currently being machined. Here is the one for the LS motors they make.







They are bringing the clutches tot he 350z and 370z market.

 

^^
thats nice!!

 

$1200 or so is about the most I want to spend, so the carbonetics is not an option.

 

Im Doin a spec twin disk as well. Plan to have low 5xx in torque range on built motor.

 

What trim? I am thinking to do the P trim, but I can't find any reviews or information about trim differences. I am wondering if the pressure plates are the same, and the clutch friction material is just different, or if the pressure plate has increased force. I don't want to ruin my thrust bearings with a super strong pressure plate.

 

i have the carbonetics triple disc...holds all of the power all of the time, no need to worry about replacing it! save up and get a clutch that is overkill not one that can only hold 100ft lbs more then you plan on having in the future....my .02

 

I have to agree with Eltness, better to save for a clutch you don't have to worry about. Biggest reason for me switching to Monster, was their 24 month warranty and seeing how well it performs in the LS markets.

You definitely do not want to over clutch your car, as it will cause problems. However getting a clutch that is very close to your tq output is asking for a new clutch all over again.

 

This SPEC twin clutch claims 900 lb-ft of torque holding power for their SS and 1100 for their P.... i am thinking to go with the P, should be sufficient for my power goals. They also have 1200 and 1400 ft-lb but I think those would be overkill.

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Infin...003/Super_Twin

 

I found this info on the evolution forums:

SS trim is rated for 900lb/ft of tq. and uses a "hybrid" clutch disc where one side of the disc is full faced Kevlar and the other side is a 6 puck carbon metallic
P trim is rated for 1100lb/ft of tq. and uses twin 6 puck ceramic discs
ST trim is rated for 1200lb/ft of tq and uses twin full faced carbon metallic discs
E trim is rated for 1400+ lb/ft of tq. and uses two unsprund citered iron discs which is not recommended for the street
All the "trims" use the same sized discs and are virtually the same except for the friction material.

 

You won't need anything larger then the smallest spec clutch rating. A few users here have pushed them up to about 700tq with no issues. The higher the rating the harder it will be to street so remember that.

ALso, RJM clutch bracket will make it drive smooth as stock. I'm not sure what they sell for now but they used to be 100$ and it was the best 100$ I've ever spent. My car with a carbonetics triple drives better now with the RJM bracket then the stock clutch. The bracket adjusts the fulcrum to make the clutch act more like a normal clutch. I can take off in first gear without touching the gas now.

Where is MX594 at? I wish I could tag him in this thread so maybe he will believe me that the clutchmasters fx300 won't come close to handling what he thinks it will since now we have another user with 400tq that an FX400 failed just like mine did.

 

Honestly unless you really going to be making over 1k rwhp, you wont need anything other than the the SS. Our torque numbers stay pretty close to our HP, so really anything other than the SS will be over clutching the car big time.

 

Actually my FX400 didn't fail prematurely, it lasted about 3 years and over 20k miles so it worked pretty well. It just isnt the most pleasant clutch to drive, and it sounds like a cement mixer.

Thanks for the tip on the clutch bracket. Is it also advisable to get a new pivot? I have a cd009, that should be a shorter pivot correct?

 

Ah really, ok good to know thanks, looks like I will go with the SS.