View Poll Results: Greddy Install, pull engine or not
Pull Engine
44
95.65%
Leave In
2
4.35%
Voters: 46. You may not vote on this poll
Greddy Install...engine in or out?
I'll run the small blue springs then, they are 8.7 psi. I dont want to run a boost controller because I will just end up turning it up and blowing something up haha.
Last edited by Escobar; Sep 13, 2012 at 12:56 PM.
You probably already have this planned, but I HIGHLY recommend a tune with an advanced engine controller if you are going to run anything above 5 PSI.
yea I would like to run the new haltech plug and play system but I dont have 2500 for it. I have talked to a local shop(sohomotorsports) here in charlotte and they said they would do the uprev reflash and upgrade the MAF for around 1000 with dyno time. They are running this tune on their 550whp track G35 with no issues.
yea I would like to run the new haltech plug and play system but I dont have 2500 for it. I have talked to a local shop(sohomotorsports) here in charlotte and they said they would do the uprev reflash and upgrade the MAF for around 1000 with dyno time. They are running this tune on their 550whp track G35 with no issues.
I would buy an older haltech if I were you.
Even on low boost I shudder at the thought of maf on turbo applications. Although plenty of cars (gtr etc) run maf, map is just a better place to start. Ontop of that something like the haltech is really designed for boosted applications. Considering you're staying stock block, you should really want every safeguard you can get. AEM, hydra, motec, etc all are expensive for good reason. But an old red box shouldn't be hard to find for a little more than the 1k they want for your uprev. Mind you, you'll have to fork out for tuning, but you'll have a much better ecu system to build off of.
And on regards to pulling the engine, if I could, I would have dropped the sub-frame with the engine, slapped my crap on, and dropped the car back on that bish. My install wasn't the same as everyone else's, but that's the easiest way by far. Pulling out sucked at home but there's no way you can install a turbo kit without pulling that lump out. In car installation would be a mental suicide. Awful.
Even on low boost I shudder at the thought of maf on turbo applications. Although plenty of cars (gtr etc) run maf, map is just a better place to start. Ontop of that something like the haltech is really designed for boosted applications. Considering you're staying stock block, you should really want every safeguard you can get. AEM, hydra, motec, etc all are expensive for good reason. But an old red box shouldn't be hard to find for a little more than the 1k they want for your uprev. Mind you, you'll have to fork out for tuning, but you'll have a much better ecu system to build off of.
And on regards to pulling the engine, if I could, I would have dropped the sub-frame with the engine, slapped my crap on, and dropped the car back on that bish. My install wasn't the same as everyone else's, but that's the easiest way by far. Pulling out sucked at home but there's no way you can install a turbo kit without pulling that lump out. In car installation would be a mental suicide. Awful.
I would buy an older haltech if I were you.
Even on low boost I shudder at the thought of maf on turbo applications. Although plenty of cars (gtr etc) run maf, map is just a better place to start. Ontop of that something like the haltech is really designed for boosted applications. Considering you're staying stock block, you should really want every safeguard you can get. AEM, hydra, motec, etc all are expensive for good reason. But an old red box shouldn't be hard to find for a little more than the 1k they want for your uprev. Mind you, you'll have to fork out for tuning, but you'll have a much better ecu system to build off of.
And on regards to pulling the engine, if I could, I would have dropped the sub-frame with the engine, slapped my crap on, and dropped the car back on that bish. My install wasn't the same as everyone else's, but that's the easiest way by far. Pulling out sucked at home but there's no way you can install a turbo kit without pulling that lump out. In car installation would be a mental suicide. Awful.
Even on low boost I shudder at the thought of maf on turbo applications. Although plenty of cars (gtr etc) run maf, map is just a better place to start. Ontop of that something like the haltech is really designed for boosted applications. Considering you're staying stock block, you should really want every safeguard you can get. AEM, hydra, motec, etc all are expensive for good reason. But an old red box shouldn't be hard to find for a little more than the 1k they want for your uprev. Mind you, you'll have to fork out for tuning, but you'll have a much better ecu system to build off of.
And on regards to pulling the engine, if I could, I would have dropped the sub-frame with the engine, slapped my crap on, and dropped the car back on that bish. My install wasn't the same as everyone else's, but that's the easiest way by far. Pulling out sucked at home but there's no way you can install a turbo kit without pulling that lump out. In car installation would be a mental suicide. Awful.
I have a haltech I'm selling cheap if your interested. I uave a for sale thread up in the engine privates. I would let it go for 1250 haltech platinum unit.
Last edited by ace32x; Sep 14, 2012 at 09:12 AM.
I installed mine on jack stands with the engine in. took about 3 weeks. couple hours a day. i don't want to touch it ever again.
i've been running the stock clutch for about 10k now on 8psi 369whp.
i've been running the stock clutch for about 10k now on 8psi 369whp.
so far so good.
no slip on the clutch so far.
solid tune on the haltech.
drives/idles/cruises like stock but with more power
I had an oil analysis after 5k miles and it came out normal.
no slip on the clutch so far.
solid tune on the haltech.
drives/idles/cruises like stock but with more power
I had an oil analysis after 5k miles and it came out normal.
Last edited by accordfreak; Sep 17, 2012 at 02:45 PM.
If you're pulling the engine to do it I would do the clutch while everything is out. It's enough of a PITA that it is a good time to do it and it won't be if but when you need a new clutch. Lots of people run 400+whp with a reflash. If I did it again I would use up-rev until I decided to build my engine.
on a stock block you cant run a boost controller, just ~8-10psi wastegate springs, so Uprev is all the tuning you need.
The additional features and controls for a Haltech etc are just overkill. On a built block, you need the additional safeties, so a better EMS is needed.
The additional features and controls for a Haltech etc are just overkill. On a built block, you need the additional safeties, so a better EMS is needed.