Phunk failed to mention the difficulty rating of drilling out the metal ball on one of those ports

 

care to elaborate??

 

the front port where i had relocated the pressure sensor to was an existing port in the oil pan that the factory seals by pressing in a steel ball bearing. You have to drill/machine out the ball bearing then you can tap the hole 1/8 BSPT.

 

oh, that doesnt sound too bad. Do you need any special drill bits or tools?

So i understand you correctly, your saying to drill out this area in red where the ball is and move the sensor to there, then install one oil feed line to the old sensor location and drill/tap a new one where I circled yellow for the other? Also, im going to run a oil cooler, should I just use a oil sandwich plate with a thermostat to the cooler? Thanks!

 

Sorry, late to the party...can I still chime in?
True statement...I love me some numbers so I made this scatter plot...boost psi to whp...



400whp is roughly 8.25psi

To the masses: If you have a good boost : whp numbers please PM me with these and I will add them to the curve.

I am not 100% sure but if your waste gates curl around the transmission you'll have to pull the tranny and install everything as one unit as the waste gates wont allow you place the engine back in the engine bay bc the wastegates hit the transmission...(this is moot as the OP is installing with the engine in the car)

 

@Phunk2 - is it better to draw turbo oil from the OEM sensor location or the unused port (that comes plugged) that you and Kilo were talking about?

Also, no power steering? Is this a daily? a track car?

 

everything you said here is correct if you want to match what i did. i use the mocal sandwich plate with thermostat. I also eliminated the factory oil cooler sandwich but this required making a custom part on the lathe. There might be a combination of OEM parts available to do it... perhaps an early 370z oil filter stud since they didnt have the stock oil coolers.

no special tools are needed its just in technique. Whatever you have to do to make the pressed in ball bearing no longer exist. I think I grinded a small flat spot to it to make it easier to start a drill bit.

 

I dont think I have a strong preference for one or the other... but the plugged port is only 1 so I couldnt have used it for twin turbos without a T.

Its been a long time since I looked at the DE stuff... so if I were you I would study the oil path in the service manual or by examining the engine in person and determine which areas are filtered or unfiltered and probably opt for the filtered side.

 

Is there anything wrong with removing the factory oil cooler plate and putting your oil cooler sandwich plate in its place?

 

No that is what I did, but I had to custom machine a part in order to do it. The Mocal sandwich mounts a little differently. I cant remember exactly what I had to machine, but it was some sort of collar that I pressed into the center of the sandwich so that it could bolt up in place of the stock cooler.

 

thanks for the posts guys, that helps. Phunk, I will be running my lines your way except I'll leave the oil warmer/cooler thing on and just stack the sandwich adaptor on as well. Thanks for posting that, I like that route.

 

Nice chart, thats good to know. I will be pulling the engine and tranny at the same time, then installing the kit and putting them back in as one piece again. Do you think I'll have any issues with clearance that way?

 

BTW I just wanted to say, for the record... on the topic of the original post:

I think that its crazy to pull the engine to install the Greddy turbo kit. I have put it in probably 6 times and taken it out 3-4.. and never pulled the engine. There are only 2 bolts that are hard to do with the engine in. One each of the 3 turbo to manifold nuts. For which I use a shortened wrench and a long pry bar to get the leverage to tighten it. If anything else is considered hard, then you just need a better selection of wrenches and sockets, which are pretty inexpensive if you arent into the needlessly expensive brands.

 

interesting...seemed like a overwhelming response to pull it. At this point im going to continue with pulling it. I think it will be easier in the long run...its been a good learning experience so far...

 

oil return lines

 

phunk, I wouldnt disagree with you - I installed the kit with the car on but it each method has it's advantages and disadvantages.

I know what 'collar' you are talking about - I have a small gap on mine as well.

 

No, don't.

It's pretty strongly advised that you don't leave the oil cooler warmer, because it doesn't work very well. There's a reason why nissan removed it down the line from the DE. I'd have to look up the replacement thread part (like 6 bucks from nissan).

Especially on a turbo motor.

Anyone who tells you otherwise.... Don't listen to them either. I used to have pics of one that I 'took apart' and there was some weird chit gunk in their and it didn't look like it flowed well.

 

Yea it seemed pretty useless. im going to remove it for sure since im going to run a oil sandwich plate for my oil cooler. Here is the part number of the bolt I found in the thread your talking about: Part number is 15213-31U00. Going to order it. Now whats the best way to route the coolant lines now? Thanks man

 

The lines that come off it? Just delete them. The one on the hard pipe above is a bit of a pain above so I just had a buddy weld me a nipple out of hard line basically and attached with some trimmed down hose and clamps. We'll see if it pops off lol.

Oh and they're*

 

yea i know they have to be deleted, just wondering what the best way to do that is, i guess just having them welded is the best option...