700rwhp turbo kit (single or twins and what mods)
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700rwhp turbo kit (single or twins and what mods)
Hey guys. My buddy is looking to go turbo now. The motor is built and the head is ported mildly and the compression has been dropped to 9:1 according to him. The block is not sleeved.
He has ID725's and a Walbro 400 pump and running a Haltech. The car is currently supercharged and he is running DC headers. Meth injection will be installed to run up to 25psi.
He wants to go single but we are not sure on how to approach this.
Some questions are:
1) Will his DC headers be enough and just use an up-pipe and slap the single on there?
2) Would it be better to go single or twins?
Also please recommend some kits/turbos that you think will help him get there. Im green to this and so is he. Ive just been reading on single kits and they all seem to max around 650rwhp.
TIA.
He has ID725's and a Walbro 400 pump and running a Haltech. The car is currently supercharged and he is running DC headers. Meth injection will be installed to run up to 25psi.
He wants to go single but we are not sure on how to approach this.
Some questions are:
1) Will his DC headers be enough and just use an up-pipe and slap the single on there?
2) Would it be better to go single or twins?
Also please recommend some kits/turbos that you think will help him get there. Im green to this and so is he. Ive just been reading on single kits and they all seem to max around 650rwhp.
TIA.
#3
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everything you have asked has been discussed heavily, headers, fuel system, pros vs cons of single and twins(neither is "better" get that **** outa your head theres pros and cons of each) and you obviously dint search much for kits since there are several kits that can hit that. people run 650hp or less because of traction not because of the limits of the kits but if you actually read anything you would know that. hell binder made 650 on his kit and hasnt even gotten to where the turbo really wakes up yet, and the new version of that turbo makes significant more power.
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everything you have asked has been discussed heavily, headers, fuel system, pros vs cons of single and twins(neither is "better" get that **** outa your head theres pros and cons of each) and you obviously dint search much for kits since there are several kits that can hit that. people run 650hp or less because of traction not because of the limits of the kits but if you actually read anything you would know that. hell binder made 650 on his kit and hasnt even gotten to where the turbo really wakes up yet, and the new version of that turbo makes significant more power.
Also the research came from vendors on here who I have spoken to. One said the header is a restriction for power and momentum headers are good but they need to be bigger for 650+, one said the cylinder head is a restriction and not the header. Another said the block needs to be sleeved to make the power and would be the biggest restriction. Like I said im green to this so all these difference in opinions are making it tough for me to really know what it takes to make 700+.
Please feel free to pm me some links that I can read.
Last edited by spoolin turbo; 10-26-2012 at 04:33 PM.
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He knows nothing about FI. I have good knowledge on the 2J platform but not with the Z.
This forum is one where people post questions and others help them out right?
This forum is one where people post questions and others help them out right?
#9
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None of the off the shelf st kits make 700+. Talk to Sasha if you want to make that power with a ST, I'm sure Sasha will be able to make or even has something for you. BP Performance is the forum name. Otherwise Greddy 20g I suppose. Jwt 850bb TT Kit. But you can easily search and find out a lot about this. Shop build forum may be a good place to start.
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None of the off the shelf st kits make 700+. Talk to Sasha if you want to make that power with a ST, I'm sure Sasha will be able to make or even has something for you. BP Performance is the forum name. Otherwise Greddy 20g I suppose. Jwt 850bb TT Kit. But you can easily search and find out a lot about this. Shop build forum may be a good place to start.
So is there one kit (minus the turbo) that you would recommend being the best platform to use. Then we could just put a larger turbo on there.
Thanks
#11
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Tell your for friend to get off his ***, make an account and use the search feature like the rest of us... Idk why people get on the forum and expect to be spoon fed. With almost 10 years after being released and numerous builds out there yet the faqs remain the same....
#14
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congratz you wont make 700+ without spending 50k to pay a shop since you fail at even ****in reading. binder made 650 AND THE TURBO HAS NOT EVEN WOKEN UP YET the 6765 dosnt even have peak airflow until you get it above 30 psi, going from 26 to 32 psi according to percision while only upping the boost 23% the turbo(again according to precision) picks up about 35% more airflow because thats the pressure needed for the billet to be advantageous. they dont even make that turbo anymore its the 6766 now which makes EVEN MORE. but yah your too damn stupid to know that and you wont hook anyway which is why most people run under that power level.
again ****ing search cylinder head will need cams at most im at 600 to the wheels on stock heads AND cams and was still making power but the clutch was slipping.
headers are all the same design nearly for the short tubes, all copys of copys of copys.
hal is around 800 to the wheels no issues with stock sleeves they are made of the same material as the darton sleeves, the dartons are just a little thicker.
there you have been spoon fed now give up and go away since you cant click a box and type some words.
also sasha's 6765 kit(well 6766 now) will easily hit 700 if done correctly but as hard as it hits its pointless, big cams to right shift will help some also he offers bigger then that.
considering the 6266 makes as much power as the 6765 the 6766 has 0 reason to not hit 800 or better.
last dyno car was still rich and breaking up(but not bad only a little more fuel needed taken out.) and made 587 at 5300-5400 rpm's with 22 psi boost and the clutch pretty much just completely gave up and boost just dropped from there. woulda been 600 with the extra fuel taken out but no reason since clutch slipping, clutch holding would have been over 700 easy, especially since the 600 ft lbs at 5k was only 26 psi of boost for only a second and still going up, new six puck custom clutch southbend made will be going in during christmas block leave or thanksgiving idk yet.
again ****ing search cylinder head will need cams at most im at 600 to the wheels on stock heads AND cams and was still making power but the clutch was slipping.
headers are all the same design nearly for the short tubes, all copys of copys of copys.
hal is around 800 to the wheels no issues with stock sleeves they are made of the same material as the darton sleeves, the dartons are just a little thicker.
there you have been spoon fed now give up and go away since you cant click a box and type some words.
also sasha's 6765 kit(well 6766 now) will easily hit 700 if done correctly but as hard as it hits its pointless, big cams to right shift will help some also he offers bigger then that.
considering the 6266 makes as much power as the 6765 the 6766 has 0 reason to not hit 800 or better.
last dyno car was still rich and breaking up(but not bad only a little more fuel needed taken out.) and made 587 at 5300-5400 rpm's with 22 psi boost and the clutch pretty much just completely gave up and boost just dropped from there. woulda been 600 with the extra fuel taken out but no reason since clutch slipping, clutch holding would have been over 700 easy, especially since the 600 ft lbs at 5k was only 26 psi of boost for only a second and still going up, new six puck custom clutch southbend made will be going in during christmas block leave or thanksgiving idk yet.
Im looking for 700+ not 650.
Also the research came from vendors on here who I have spoken to. One said the header is a restriction for power and momentum headers are good but they need to be bigger for 650+, one said the cylinder head is a restriction and not the header. Another said the block needs to be sleeved to make the power and would be the biggest restriction. Like I said im green to this so all these difference in opinions are making it tough for me to really know what it takes to make 700+.
Please feel free to pm me some links that I can read.
Also the research came from vendors on here who I have spoken to. One said the header is a restriction for power and momentum headers are good but they need to be bigger for 650+, one said the cylinder head is a restriction and not the header. Another said the block needs to be sleeved to make the power and would be the biggest restriction. Like I said im green to this so all these difference in opinions are making it tough for me to really know what it takes to make 700+.
Please feel free to pm me some links that I can read.
Last edited by jerryd87; 10-26-2012 at 09:40 PM.
#16
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At 700+whp (since that is how we measure here) the car will be close to undriveable on the street because of the triple carbon clutch that is required to hold that power. Anyone that tells you different is lying to you or lives in the middle of the desert where there is never any traffic.
Berto is blunt, but right, you can make that power with almost any kit with the right changes and you should expect the price tag to be close to or north of $20K even with the mods your friend already has done.
The headers are a toss up... most of the really high whp guys have used the header model, but it can create significant headache in making things fit properly. Log style manis are functional (or a hybrid style like Greddy uses) but can be limiting.
If you guys are thinking self built on this project... good luck. If you are picking a shop, there are a few highly qualified shops out there that can make this happen (I will leave it to others to make recommendations, but there have been a few solid names already tossed out there).
The F/I forum is tough love... we eat the young, thin the heard and only the worthy survive. I'm not saying its the right way, but we all came up that way and once you earn your place you are one of the group. THIS IS SPARTA!!
There are several stickies at the top of the page with good info and the shop build section to see whom has built what recently. Also look at the top 50 list for what setups have what potential.
Berto is blunt, but right, you can make that power with almost any kit with the right changes and you should expect the price tag to be close to or north of $20K even with the mods your friend already has done.
The headers are a toss up... most of the really high whp guys have used the header model, but it can create significant headache in making things fit properly. Log style manis are functional (or a hybrid style like Greddy uses) but can be limiting.
If you guys are thinking self built on this project... good luck. If you are picking a shop, there are a few highly qualified shops out there that can make this happen (I will leave it to others to make recommendations, but there have been a few solid names already tossed out there).
The F/I forum is tough love... we eat the young, thin the heard and only the worthy survive. I'm not saying its the right way, but we all came up that way and once you earn your place you are one of the group. THIS IS SPARTA!!
There are several stickies at the top of the page with good info and the shop build section to see whom has built what recently. Also look at the top 50 list for what setups have what potential.
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Thanks jerryd87 for the informative post. I appreciate the help and the post. Coming from a 2J background the 6266 and the 6766 make completely different power. Good to know on the Z the 6266 and 6765 make similar power.
Cass007 you are right...This is sparta.
Ive contacted Sasha so i'll get more info from him.
For the turbo we plan to use a Comp billet 67. A test was done on a supra between a Comp 67 and a Pte67 and the Comp made 40rwhp more same torque and the car accelerated faster.
Another option is the Comp oiless turbos for singles or twins (no need for a failing scavenge pump as i have read and can rear mount the turbo) makes it easier for positioning.
WTFmike -I doubt a Z with 700rwhp will be soooo fast, bro. 700rwhp for me is boring. Even my supra at 900rwhp daily is boring now.
For those worrying about traction. M&H makes some really good tires that hook HARD. Taller tires make you hook better not necessarily wider.
Cass007 you are right...This is sparta.
Ive contacted Sasha so i'll get more info from him.
For the turbo we plan to use a Comp billet 67. A test was done on a supra between a Comp 67 and a Pte67 and the Comp made 40rwhp more same torque and the car accelerated faster.
Another option is the Comp oiless turbos for singles or twins (no need for a failing scavenge pump as i have read and can rear mount the turbo) makes it easier for positioning.
WTFmike -I doubt a Z with 700rwhp will be soooo fast, bro. 700rwhp for me is boring. Even my supra at 900rwhp daily is boring now.
For those worrying about traction. M&H makes some really good tires that hook HARD. Taller tires make you hook better not necessarily wider.
Last edited by spoolin turbo; 10-27-2012 at 09:54 AM.
#19
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our platform performs similarly to the supra where i know the 6266 has made 800 to the wheels, you would think it would be obvious that the 6766 will easily hit your goals, no one has put that turbo on a fully built supra and really pushed it yet. 750 to the wheels has shown with the right setup to do low 9's on this platform so saying that wont feel fast is complete bs and dont try it here.
Thanks jerryd87 for the informative post. I appreciate the help and the post. Coming from a 2J background the 6266 and the 6766 make completely different power. Good to know on the Z the 6266 and 6765 make similar power.
Cass007 you are right...This is sparta.
Ive contacted Sasha so i'll get more info from him.
For the turbo we plan to use a Comp billet 67. A test was done on a supra between a Comp 67 and a Pte67 and the Comp made 40rwhp more same torque and the car accelerated faster.
Another option is the Comp oiless turbos for singles or twins (no need for a failing scavenge pump as i have read and can rear mount the turbo) makes it easier for positioning.
WTFmike -I doubt a Z with 700rwhp will be soooo fast, bro. 700rwhp for me is boring. Even my supra at 900rwhp daily is boring now.
For those worrying about traction. M&H makes some really good tires that hook HARD. Taller tires make you hook better not necessarily wider.
Cass007 you are right...This is sparta.
Ive contacted Sasha so i'll get more info from him.
For the turbo we plan to use a Comp billet 67. A test was done on a supra between a Comp 67 and a Pte67 and the Comp made 40rwhp more same torque and the car accelerated faster.
Another option is the Comp oiless turbos for singles or twins (no need for a failing scavenge pump as i have read and can rear mount the turbo) makes it easier for positioning.
WTFmike -I doubt a Z with 700rwhp will be soooo fast, bro. 700rwhp for me is boring. Even my supra at 900rwhp daily is boring now.
For those worrying about traction. M&H makes some really good tires that hook HARD. Taller tires make you hook better not necessarily wider.
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If you have good knowledge on the 2jz platform and know turbos you would know that "singles' don't max anywhere around 650. It only maxes when you reach the limits of the turbo you choose.
Pick a bigger single turbo. Of all communities if you really own a supra and "know" the car you would know that all the big hp cars are large single turbo setups.
Turbo systems are turbo systems. You put flow and displacement with the turbo and you will get power. Since a supra is a 3.0 liter and we run a 3.5 liter then power outputs will be similar if the correct supporting mods are used.
Pick a bigger single turbo. Of all communities if you really own a supra and "know" the car you would know that all the big hp cars are large single turbo setups.
Turbo systems are turbo systems. You put flow and displacement with the turbo and you will get power. Since a supra is a 3.0 liter and we run a 3.5 liter then power outputs will be similar if the correct supporting mods are used.