i like this, i have a project in mind i'll pm you.

 

Yet again, Great work and keep it up!
The site looks great too!

 

Thank you. I still have a lot of work to do on everything but once the car is done I will clean things up.

This VR6 thing is slowely spreading..a guy in Canada is doing a RWD golf with the 350z tranny now. one guy is using a universal version of the plate to match a genesis transmition to his 24V VR6.

 

I got all new water pipes and hoses on along with the P/S line. I need a new fitting for the P/S line because I got the wrong one. A/C compressor is next and the alternator will be back from being rebuilt tomorrow.

 

Love seeing this project progress! cant wait to see it running.

Chris

 

Thank you, you and me both brother! I'll have more updates on Sunday.

-Ed

 

I think the coolest part about this swap is retaining the A/C

 

That's what I'm starting next!! I'm using the VR6 A/C compressor, a universal swivel manifold and modify the stock lines to connect to it; clean and simple. I'm using the same wire from the 350z to trigger it but you have to add a ground on the other wire of the VW compressor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-A-C-AC-Compressor-Swivel-Manifold-with-Oring-Ports-/160884857823?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25757c1bdf&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-OEM-Sanden-AC-A-C-Compressor-VW-Corrado-Golf-Jetta-Passat-2-8L-VR6-/171014955383?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d1492177&vxp=mtr

 

I got the A/C lines done and I pretty happy how they came out. I had to modify the compressor manifold fitting because they did not fit like I thought. I'm machining them so they fit on the stock compressor in case it needs to be replaced in the future. I'm trying to make everything as maintenance friendly as possible.

I also ran 5/8" copper tubing to the P/S pump. One it was the right OD and two it aids in cooling the fluid. I don't know if I'm going to run a cooler up front yet; I may just end up reusing the stock unit.

 

A little update. I painted the copper line black and it looks much better. I have decided to go with a cooler for the PS after doing more research, apparently it gets VERY hot and can burn up the pump.

I also decided to pull all of the plastic thermostat and coolant pipes off and go with my original plan of a custom aluminum unit. The plan is to reduce all the clutter and upgraded the tubing from 1.25" to 1.5". I should have the main housing that bolts to the head in a week or so.

 

Way to take all the reliability out of a nissan! lol I sold my VR6 Corrado to buy my Z....I spent over $5k on engine repairs in the 3 years I owned it....but they do sound amazing when running right

 

Really? I think the 12v VR6 holds up to boost much better than the VQ35 any day of the week. A German Iron block with aluminum head, originally designed to be a diesel engine with less moving parts than the VQ does not sound like a unreliable engine in my eyes. I guess I'll find out in a few months...$5k for repairs? Isn't that more than that car is worth? You can build a bullet proof 12V VR6 for that much. You're right, sound is amazing compared to the VQ IMO.

 

Looking nice. I would relocate the PS reservoir to the block for a bit cleaner route for that tube. Also a neat little trick is using heat shrink for turning tubing black if you are worried about the paint scratching.

 

You wouldn't mind sharing some info on building these blocks would you? I have had a hard time finding info about them, but I think I'm just looking in the wrong place(s).

Would love to see one of these revving out with some super crazy boost, all o-ringed and what not

 

It’s no mystery on these engines. The stock engine is so strong most people just put a head gasket spacer and head studs and call it a day up to about 500hp. After that people do pistons, rods and head porting up to about 700hp after that some move to O-ringing the head or block. On my engine the O-rings were cut into the head. It’s highly recommended more than on other engine to use a torque plate when boring the cylinders do to the odd angle of the cylinders. A simple Google search will find you many pages or builds, while you are at it, click on videos and you’ll find some monster VR6 powered cars out there.

 

That doesn't sound very strong to me for an iron block considering a stock vq with no work will go up high 400's. Rods, pistons, head gasket, studs is all that is needed for 800+ on boost.

I'm not saying the vr6 is a bad motor but with a 500hp limit on the stock block it doesn't come close to "blowing away" a vq by any means in stock form. It actually seems to be in the same ballpark.

 

Jeff, I think the difference comes in when getting to that 500hp number. As you can see, he picked up cams for $300 or somethin, turbo manifolds are cheaper, etc. Once the swap is done, the aftermarket prices are much much lower, so perhaps getting to 500 is cheaper? Can't really say. A big bonus to me would be the super spacious engine bay.

 

You bring up good point here. Cost is a big one for me when it comes to building a motor, maybe not for others. That's why the B series Honda was so great for so many people.

 

I finally got a pic of the A/C lines all done. I also have a shot with the P/S line painted black. I dropped off my chunk of aluminum to the machine shop yesterday to have the new coolant housing made for the back of the head and I should have it on Tuesday so I can move on to completing the cooling system.

 

Head spacer is to drop the compression. Regardless, the bottom end of the VR6 is stronger than the VQ. Not to many stories of holes in the block at 350-400hp on a VR6 if any.