what IAT do you log on boost? how much boost you run?

 

I don't know ... let me go back to my logs and formally compile the data ... 12psi

 

Thanks man!

 

Let the good times roll ... the data has been compiled ... below is the ambient temp to IAT & ECT data. I'll get my main mods done and run the car to obtain more data as a comparison.



and did some welding...

 

water meth install ... unpackaged everything and compared it to AEM instructions ... spent a good 2hours sorting things out, labelling wires, shorten wires, generally laying things out.

Installed the tank in the hatch along with the pump and ran the wires/hoses up to the front...surprisingly easy with NOTHING in the way!











hooked everything up and everything functioned like it was supposed to ... the 1000cc nozzle doesnt atonomize like I thought it would (maybe I wasnt putting enough pressure behind it) but that's ok - I'm not using it. the 250cc and 500cc do well.

I'm thinking about using three nozzles ... one at each blower and then one just past the IC (the soonest I have a single charge pipe). I'll reanalyze after some testing/experimentation.

 

So far good job!

What's your failsafe plans once start spraying? There are a couple very possible scenarios which could potentially lead to disaster.

 

Thanks Tom! - Right now I'm using my normal tune (before water/meth was installed) so I'm not too-entirely worried about it now - from where you're sitting, should I be worried? Should I incorporate anything?

With that being said I will be taking it pretty easy these first few hundred miles to get a feel for the system as a whole.

moving forward - obviously the method you and CUX outlined setting up a user-defined table linked to the AEM boost safe 5volt output. I'll also ensure my ignition and fuel temp compensation tables are setup for a rapid change in temps due to a failed pump.

What other suggestions do you have for me? Anything you'd do different?

AEM says I'm looking around 1100cc/min, Snow Performance says around 800cc/min ... My thought was to install a 500cc/min on each turbo (pre-turbo) and have a 250cc on my charge pipe after my IC - thoughts? Caveat being that quantities can be reduced if less than 1/2 methanol is used and if an intercooler is used.

 

With 1100 cc/min total spraying I have to remove 15% of injector fueling (1200 cc/min injectors) to hit desired AFR. While on spray, I'm also adding boost and ignition timing. I had to make an insurance for dead or power loss WMI pump, clogged one or both WMI nozzles, WMI pre or post pump leak. Also, there's a transition time once you power on WMI pump and having full flow through nozzles, especially if system not used for a while, it will need some time for bleeding. Otherwise, my engine could potentially be in high boost with too much ignition and without 15% of fuel. Trust me it would not last long in that conditions.

 

from your experience how long does the ECU/haltech need to go from a non-spray IAT state to a sprayed IAT state?

 

It's not Haltech related. It sends electrical signal and activate WMI pump relay almost instantly. However, from power on pump to full WMI flow it takes 0.6 sec on primed system. And that 0.6 sec is a transition time, at the very beginning flow is almost 0 and at 0.6 sec flow is full, so for smoothing AFR during transition time I'm taking fuel from injectors at different rate. Actually Haltech reads frequency from WMI flow sensor and gradually taking fuel from injectors.

 

Thanks TCode - Everything seems to be functioning like it should. I dont feel quite comfortable relying on it other than some insurance. But I'll get there.

Ive only had the car out a few times and it's been near-freezing so it's hard to tell if the water mist is doing anything!

been working on the last piece of the IAT puzzle - fabb'ing up a separated filter box that can be mounted next to the IC and take an intake charge from anywhere but from behind a radiator!

 

locked myself in the garage yesterday and part of today and pushed through ... I actually have the filter in backwards for the sake of the picture. I need to trim about 1/8" off the filter seat in-order for it to fit. The top portion of this box is not welded on yet ... there's a chance I may rivet it in-place just incase I need to take it off for any reason? I'll also be seam-welding the exterior of the box for structural integrity and to seal it off.

Feel free to chime in...taking suggestions

I need ideas on how to incorporate a single or dual water meth nozzles into the box or do I run them equal distance off the 3" pipe approximately 8" from the turbo inlet?

I need to consider some sort of interchangable protective cover to place over the filter (mainly for everyday driving) to keep road debris off the filter...

I need to decide how to protrude the two 3" pipes into the box - I dont think welding them to the box will work. I'd also love to install velocity-stack trumpets onto the 3" IC pipe but not sure how the works

ideas welcome?

 

That's awesome!

 

Not sure who's this is but I really like his material choice... Looks like 304 or 316 stainless rod... 1/2" diameter or so. Looks easy to work with and offers supreme bend-ability/expand-ability for new hardware. Also, what type/brand scissor lift was that holding the car up in the photo with the bumper on it? I could use one of those... If it's safe

 

that car has the CJ Motorsports intake manifold on it ... sexy.

I'm not 100% sure how much reinforcements are needed past the engine subframe & strut tower?

I'm in the process of eliminating the mild steel rack holding the IC & radiator. I want to replace it with a similar setup out of aluminum. I've got a few ideas on how to re-work the factory strut-tower brace and incorporate it into this new rack...but it's a pipe dream as of right now.

The scissor lift was a bend pack. I got nervous working around it above 24" inches off the ground. I ended selling it...I'll see about a two post once I buy something here in colorado.

 

Good call on the lack of support... I think it's important to have both the strut tower brace and a nice cross member between the frame rails... Noted

Will be interested to see your new rad support setup

 

it's stupid simple ... nothing sexy

 

That’s Meatbag’s setup. He used 0.50” .065 wall 304 SS tubing

 

Good to know it's DOM or other sort of tubing! Will save a lot of weight thank u

 

It become apparent that replacing the mild steel radiator/IC rack (with an alum) should be done at the same time. Fabbed-up & trimmed some simple brackets to bolt-in the radiator and will need to figure out how to hold the IC...







Something to this effect (missing the angle support)