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I think I spent 3 hours creating the final (tension) leg of the airbox...some cleanup on the box, measuring/cutting/grinding/cleaning/welding/cutting off (and repeat), to get this piece where it needs to be.
Cool. I got a Koyo rad and the pathfinder cooling mod. Was wondering if the Nismo tstat would be a good move or not. But I don’t see many FI guys running it.
As long as the welds stick and get good penetration! You can always grind/polish to make them pretty if you care to, integrity is what matters.
I noticed you have a small battery and smaller alternator. My fans draw so many amps that it bogs down my car sometimes, are you using a PWM to ramp up the amperage draw on the fans when they kick on?
I'll be the first to admit there are times I grind, clean, and re-weld.
I'm running a single 16" spal fan. I dont think (no technical data to backup) it impacts the battery/alternator that bad. I also think my radiator has better efficiency & capacity compared to an OEM setup where I'm not running the fan all that often. Are you running an OEM cooling system?
Ive only had one instance where I drew my battery down ... I was running my high beam lights, charging my laptop and running my water meth pump quite a bit along with all the other cars operations. The car bogged down, I killed my high beams, unplugged the computer, turned off the WM and dropped down to 4th gear and I drove home fine the rest of the way.
I'll be the first to admit there are times I grind, clean, and re-weld.
I'm running a single 16" spal fan. I dont think (no technical data to backup) it impacts the battery/alternator that bad. I also think my radiator has better efficiency & capacity compared to an OEM setup where I'm not running the fan all that often. Are you running an OEM cooling system?
Ive only had one instance where I drew my battery down ... I was running my high beam lights, charging my laptop and running my water meth pump quite a bit along with all the other cars operations. The car bogged down, I killed my high beams, unplugged the computer, turned off the WM and dropped down to 4th gear and I drove home fine the rest of the way.
I have a PWR radiator and twin spal fans, whatever was their best fans at the time.
My car is fully built 4.0 stroker with APS Extreme TT, and on a road course those fans will be on quite a bit.
My last tune was 712whp dynojet on 100 oct and 602whp on 91 (with direct port water injection Aquamist HFS 5)
The more power you make the more cooling you will need, regardless of how big the radiator is once the coolant is hot and is aren't getting enough air flow those fans run quite a bit.
I have a PWR radiator and twin spal fans...
The more power you make the more cooling you will need, regardless of how big the radiator is once the coolant is hot and is aren't getting enough air flow those fans run quite a bit.
I agree with all of this and it's my opinion that cooling fans do more harm than good above ~30mph (would love to hear your thoughts on this)...below ~30mph they are required as the passive air isnt flowing enough to transfer enough heat energy. Above 30mph they are simply getting in the way of passive air flowing through the radiator.
30mph = 44ft/sec
my radiator is 2' x 1.5' = 3 square feet
44ft/s x 3 SF = 132 cubic feet / sec, = 7920 cubic foot per minute ... I dont know any fan that can push 7920 cfm...
60mph = 15840 cfm
90mph = 23k cfm
my spal does 2100 cfm, which is the equivalent of ~8mph of passive air flow
Originally Posted by XBS
My last tune was 712whp dynojet on 100 oct and 602whp on 91 (with direct port water injection Aquamist HFS 5)
impressive
have you ever running E85?
Originally Posted by XBS
The more power you make the more cooling you will need, regardless of how big the radiator is once the coolant is hot and is aren't getting enough air flow those fans run quite a bit.
I hear what youre saying...If you generating a bunch of heat that (assuming) means your moving forward, which generates passive air (fair assumption??) and passive air cools the radiator.
Another issue with the platform is no hood venting. Before I added my hood vents my engine was too hot to touch and hot starts were a serious problem. After I added my vents my upper/lower plenums were slightly higher than ambient, my intake manifold was warm to hot (to the touch) and hot starts essentially vanished.
if the coolant is coming out of the radiator hot than the radiator isnt doing its job? If it's one thing I love about NASCAR is that they run damn near full throttle for most of their races - if their equipment can take that abuse it'll be good enough for me!
If youre generating a ton of heat at idle/rush hour traffic than, yes, you need cooling fans for sure!
Originally Posted by XBS
How much power are you making right now?
currently at 477 at 12psi...issues with my BCS the day I tuned. Would be estatic to see 700 around 24psi. likely to see mid 600s.
No doubt that moving is going to be better than the fans, but its for those times when we are not moving, doesn't take very long for the car to overheat after driving hard (or 20 min track session) if you don't have adequate fans.
Another thing that is over looked in these cars is bleeding the cooling system, it is very important to get 100% of the air out of the system and make sure there aren't any leaks even the smallest leak still lets in air all though the coolant might evaporate before hitting the floor.
My friend and I made a home made bleeding tool with some Prestone flush kit Ts, some clear vinyl tubing, and a container.
Install 2 T's on the front upper radiator hose that goes from one side of the motor to the other (not the large hose that connecting to radiator) then just clamp the middle hose in-between the Ts, add coolant to the container that is connected to the T's at this point and run the engine.
All the air will get trapped in the container and only coolant will flow down, there by eliminating 100% of the air in the system.
Back when I was building this car E85 wasn't very popular on this platform and I was concerned with the corrosive properties of the fuel, now that we have pumps and injectors with stainless internals designed for E85 its the only way to go! This is why I need to tune my EMS because I want to switch over to E85 already have CJM twin pumps (one of the first one) and 1000cc injectors.
I eliminated the OEM coolant pipes and run a steel braided hose (post #115). Had a AN-6 fitting welded onto the OEM rear pipe and where I can pull air out of and there are AN-6 fittings on the radiator where I can simultaneously fill from while bleeding.
In hindsight, I dont know if this was the smartest smartest move but I drilled 3 or 4 small (1/8") holes in the thermostat plunger where air pockets couldnt get trapped behind the thermostat and cause it not to open...the consequence to this is that, at times, my engine doesnt get up to temp ... it'll hover around 150 to 170 degrees, even on hot days where the car is moving.
I havent done track sessions but I'd like to in the future. I did get signed up for the Pikes Peak Airstrip attach in June - stoked for this.
I'm not a huge E85 fan. In fact, quite the opposite but I'm not mad that other people do it. Between the limited availability, questionable grade, bad mileage/addition fuel, not being able to swap to and from gasoline, the additional tuning, additional equipment I'd have to purchase, bad cold starts...I'll stick with a 91 oct (or whatever I can get here) and water meth...but more power to the people that run it!
If you are going to go the water injection route then I would strongly recommend a direct port setup, I drilled and tapped my lower collector and that is where the jets are. Especially if you are also mixing in methanol so that way you get the same amount of fuel per cylinder.
I hear what you're saying and that's probably the best method but I'm going pre-turbo initially. I want the benefit of WM cooling the turbos and having plenty of time to atomize with intake track.
Thats a pretty cool write about your G btw. Its sorta funny bc I'm in the boat of pick your poison - show or go ... where I am about 98% go and 2% show ... where you had a plenty good mix of both. Regardless - impressive build. Whats the story with Sam? I never knew / knew of him?
We were going to do 2 small pre turbo nozzles in addition to the direct port setup but forgot why we never did it.
Also I was running 100% water, better knock prevention but you need the right amount of water hence the HFS-5 plus direct port nozzles, I will try to find an old picture.
Sam was the owner/tuner of GT Motorsports/GTM Power/ GTM Performance Engineering. If you search those threads you will have enough to read for months. He passed away about a year and a half ago.
I was formerly known as George@GTM on the forums, then he later changed the user name to "GTM" when him and I parted ways. If you search old posts by "GTM" that is actually me, up until 2008/09 I think.
We were going to do 2 small pre turbo nozzles in addition to the direct port setup but forgot why we never did it.
If you recall please let me know!
Originally Posted by XBS
Also I was running 100% water, better knock prevention but you need the right amount of water hence the HFS-5 plus direct port nozzles, I will try to find an old picture.
Im running a minimal amount of meth with mostly water until I get a better feel for the system as a whole ... currently running a non-WM dependent tune.
Originally Posted by XBS
Sam was the owner/tuner of GT Motorsports/GTM Power/ GTM Performance Engineering.
oil coolers installed - both installed but only pics of the small one...
Finalized the connection point at the box. I'm up in the air on how this connects and dont want to weld anything in until I have better grip on how the velocity stacks are gonna sit in the box. They're just placed in the box (as pictured) - might need trimmed a bit.
01-20-2018, 09:49 PM
