Ok, I have my Haltech ECU sitting in front of me, along with a Haltech Boost solenoid and Haltech 2 bar MAP sensor, as well as the instruction manual.

How in the hell do I wire up the various pieces?!?!

The ECU is easy, and obvious, I am not talking about that. However, on the Haltech harness, there are 3 extra connectors that do not plug into the ECU or the Haltech.

One connector has 2 slots and 2 wires, one connector has 3 slots and 3 wires, and here's the odd one: one connector has 4 slots but only 3 wires from the harness.

Now, looking at the boost solenoid, there are 2 bare wires (both with brown insulation) coming from it, with no connectors. Obviouly (I think), this should go to the
2 lot/2 wire connector from the ECU. On this connector, the wires are blue and purple. Which one goes to which wire on the boost solenoid. The manual (rev 1.1) has a section on connecting the boost solenoid, but it is blank.

On to the MAP sensor. This one actually has a section in the manual, and it states to use the 4 slot connector, with the three wires, and breaks out these wires as follows: 1. Ground 2. Signal 3. +5V 4. No connection. This is all well and good, but there are a couple of problems.

1st, the wires into this connector don't correspond to commonly used colors (they are gray, black/red, and orange) Typically black would be ground, but here it is supposedly signal, while gray is ground, and orange is +5V. Strange, but thats fine with me, AS LONG AS the manual is correct. I wouldn't want to wire these up wrong, with +5V going to signal or something, and blowing either the ECU, the Haltech, or the MAP sensor.

2nd problem, the MAP sensor comes with a bare plug, three position, labeled A, B, and C, that you have to use your own wires. Thats fine, I can solder and attach wires to plugs with the best of them, but does A, B, C correspond to position 1, 2, & 3 on the Haltech plug side? If not, of A, b, & C, which is ground, which is +5V and which is signal?

Anyone have any insight into this wiring?

 

Anyone?

 

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/331871-haltec-help.html

this will help

 

Huh. Thanks, it is a big help. Of course, I searched for Haltech, which is why I did not find the thread with Haltec in the title.

 

Ok, here's the pertinent info from that thread:

That solves my boost control solenoid question, although on my version of the harness, they are not bare wires, but an actual connector. Easily fixed, however.

However, for the MAP sensor, I can figure out which wires are which on the ECU side of the connector, but on the MAP sensor itself, there are three pins, labeled A, B, and C. Logic would state that A is 1, B is 2, and C is 3. However, you should never assume that something is done logically... Anyone able to confirm this?

 

For the new harnesses with 3 connectors:

2 position connector: Aux Rev Limiter
Aux Rev Limiter - when enabled, these two wires need to be connected. To activate the auxiliary rev limiter, break the connection.
Colors: Blue, Purple

3 position connector: Boost Control Solenoid
Boost Control Solenoid wires are found on pins 1 & 2. These can be connected to the boost control solenoid in either order, with no concern for polarity.
Colors: Blue/Red, Black

4 position connector: External Map Sensor
The Haltech Platinum comes with an internal map sensor that reads up to 22psi of boost. For higher boost, an external map sensor can be connected here.
Pin 1 - sensor ground
Pin 2 - map sensor signal
Pin 3 - power, 5v
Pin 4 - nothing


Dave 90tt, your map sensor is as follows:
A - sensor ground
B - map sensor signal
C - sensor power, 5v

 

Awesome, Hal, thanks. You just saved me from cutting the wrong wires!

 

So the launch control requires a scramble switch? It doe not arm and disarm as the car moves like the Fcon?

 

Scramble switch, no - just a standard normally closed switch.

I could have it setup to disarm by wheel speed - I wasn't aware FCON did that. Where does it get its reference to "the car moving" ?

 

The Fcon can be set up to automatically arm the LC when the car is stopped, at a traffic light. If you accelearte normal and never depress the pedal to the floor it will not arm. If while stopped you floor the pedal, the LC kicks in and when you let off the clutch and start to move, the LC disables allowing the car to take off. TheLC gets its trigger to shut off from the Vehicles Speed Sensor on the A/C unit.
The Fcon launch control is also more advanced where it lets you pull timing to make the car backfire and "pop" to really spool up the turbos.
I used it on a 6500rpm launch and cause much diestruction to my car.
HAL if you on AIM, hit me up..

 

Subscribed

 

You subscribed to my 9 year old thread...

Thanks?

 

Subscribed to have access to what Hal wrote-up in post #6 - I'm heading in that direction...