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Makes two of us ...
Assuming everything goes as expected over the next few drives, the car temps stay in check, and I can keep bleeding/burping the coolant system than I am straight-up renting dyno time and just gonna let it rip at 12psi ...
it's been stupid cold out last few days (but?!?!?I have a giant heater-core in the trunk) I havent gotten the car out ... Once I do I will get a few datalogs of time / speed / engine coolant temp to see how the car performs. Still need to get the ducts installed.
Got everything buttoned-up and filled ... luckily no leaks and I think I'm 100% bled but I will continue to burp the system as I drive the car the next few days.
Unfortunately the cooling fan electrical isnt going to work out as I intended ... or I need to do some more digging. The fan circuits each draw about 10amps of power so I do have some options.
At simple idle the car warmed up and with the fans going I could easily bring the temperature down ... I am worried about when I drive the car normal or push the car how it'll react. I'll keep the thread updated. Next up will be getting ducts installed and plumbed accordingly.
Not sure if the coolant overflow tank has to be physically higher than the port in the radiator? I dont think it does? I think when the engine cools down it pulls coolant back into the radiator??
The overflow tank should be about level with the radiator top to top.
Nah, it does not matter, as long as the radiator bleed line goes to the bottom of the overflow tank.
A swirl pot does need to be level with the highest point, but I do not think Bealjk has a swirl pot on this system.
nah .. no swirlpot ... I thought the, as the radiator cools, it pulls coolant back into the radiator. If it does need to be above the highest point I may be in trouble!
no real updates ... the car is in my landlords shop as we were doing some work on one of our VIPs Q50. Landlord has been in & out all weekend but and I havent wanted to bother him.
Little Sunday Update - I got the car out and took about a 10 to 15minute test drive and I think I need to hard-wire in with a switch power to the 2nd pump and the cooling fans. Using the OEM power source and Link to activate isnt working out as well as I thought.
I can't hear the pump working and it'd be nice to have a activation light (such as on the switch) and manual control over it. The good news with the pump is that even if it doesnt come on, the OEM water pump will still be pushing coolant through the system. Maybe not ideal, but if I forget to turn the pump on it wouldnt be catastrophic.
It'd be nice to have manual control over the fans too ... I essentially think I need to run the fans when ever the car is running except when the ect temps are below 100degrees.
Also need to put the ducts in to provide fresh air to the radiator. Sorta nervous about them as I will need to cut/drill into the lexan ... if it gets f'd up than I'll have to replace that sheet of lexan.
Had a chance to get the car out yesterday and overall a pretty good experience - put about 20 to 25miles on the setup.
In the initial idle testing / coolant bleeding my 20amp fuse blew when the fans & pump were on at the same time - these were essentially wired to the same circuit. I bumped the fuse up to a 25amp and it worked initially but as soon as I got on the road the 25amp fuse kicked and upon further inspection was melted pretty good. I was able to limp it home without overheating the engine. But the engine temps climbed without the fans ... and it should be noted that my test drive included ~60% mild throttle/cruise, 30% boost up to 12psi, 10% coasting/light throttle.
I wanted to get some miles on the car and put a 30amp fuse in the car and everything went fine and the fuse popped as I was pulling into the driveway on my way back in.
I have this 100% wired up and switching wiring now would be a b!tch. I think I have two options moving forward. I can separate the electric water pump from the fans and run the electric water pump off a different circuit or I can run the fans off a relay with the battery as the main power source.
A few notes ...
The fans running kept the car cool (around 190 and 210 degrees) I still dont have the naca ducts installed ... So I am hopeful that the ducts and the fans will provide sufficient air flow.
The radiator in the trunk is the worlds biggest heater-core - after 15 to 20minutes of run time (on a 40 to 50degree ambient temp day) I was excessively hot (granted I was in my cold-weather garage clothes) so I can only imagine how hot this would be during summer time months!
With the electric water pump, I can bleed the coolant system without running the car ... sorta nice!
The coolant hoses are 1.25" ID silicone and feel rather flimsy but when the car gets hot and the coolant system builds pressure they firm up really good. I initially didnt like this but if I run into a situation where the coolant freezes I think these hoses would either deflect/expand and/or rupture before the block would crack. I have roughly 26feet of coolant line on the car - so plenty of places to deflect.
I'm getting a unhealthy amount of burned oil out of the turbo after hard deceleration ... I dont think it's excess fuel or coolant and I speculate that my seals in my turbo are bad or I need to give some attention to my oil scavenge / drain hose ... I think I have a low spot in it and it's not draining efficiently ... I have no excess smoke during cruise, light decel/in-gear decel or during pulls but as soon as I lift I get smoke for about 3 to 5 seconds ...
Had a chance to get the car out yesterday and overall a pretty good experience - put about 20 to 25miles on the setup.
In the initial idle testing / coolant bleeding my 20amp fuse blew when the fans & pump were on at the same time - these were essentially wired to the same circuit. I bumped the fuse up to a 25amp and it worked initially but as soon as I got on the road the 25amp fuse kicked and upon further inspection was melted pretty good. I was able to limp it home without overheating the engine. But the engine temps climbed without the fans ... and it should be noted that my test drive included ~60% mild throttle/cruise, 30% boost up to 12psi, 10% coasting/light throttle.
I wanted to get some miles on the car and put a 30amp fuse in the car and everything went fine and the fuse popped as I was pulling into the driveway on my way back in.
I have this 100% wired up and switching wiring now would be a b!tch. I think I have two options moving forward. I can separate the electric water pump from the fans and run the electric water pump off a different circuit or I can run the fans off a relay with the battery as the main power source.
A few notes ...
The fans running kept the car cool (around 190 and 210 degrees) I still dont have the naca ducts installed ... So I am hopeful that the ducts and the fans will provide sufficient air flow.
The radiator in the trunk is the worlds biggest heater-core - after 15 to 20minutes of run time (on a 40 to 50degree ambient temp day) I was excessively hot (granted I was in my cold-weather garage clothes) so I can only imagine how hot this would be during summer time months!
With the electric water pump, I can bleed the coolant system without running the car ... sorta nice!
The coolant hoses are 1.25" ID silicone and feel rather flimsy but when the car gets hot and the coolant system builds pressure they firm up really good. I initially didnt like this but if I run into a situation where the coolant freezes I think these hoses would either deflect/expand and/or rupture before the block would crack. I have roughly 26feet of coolant line on the car - so plenty of places to deflect.
I'm getting a unhealthy amount of burned oil out of the turbo after hard deceleration ... I dont think it's excess fuel or coolant and I speculate that my seals in my turbo are bad or I need to give some attention to my oil scavenge / drain hose ... I think I have a low spot in it and it's not draining efficiently ... I have no excess smoke during cruise, light decel/in-gear decel or during pulls but as soon as I lift I get smoke for about 3 to 5 seconds ...
If I remember correctly, 12" spal fans pull 12 ish amps when running, and the DC water pump pulls 12 ish amps also. I think you have three fans, and I bet those smaller ones each pull 5 or so each. It makes sense that the fuses are blowing.
Thought about basically putting a hood vent on the rear deck lid to pull heat out?
If I remember correctly, 12" spal fans pull 12 ish amps when running, and the DC water pump pulls 12 ish amps also. I think you have three fans, and I bet those smaller ones each pull 5 or so each. It makes sense that the fuses are blowing.
Thought about basically putting a hood vent on the rear deck lid to pull heat out?
Might be a touch high on those estimates but I get what you're saying ... Yea, I'm in the guess & check state right now. If this configuration pops the fuse I will be transitioning to a relay setup. I will need to do something to evacuate heat - I dont want to cut into the hatch but possibly into the lexan. I considering plating off the rear compartment to keep the heat in the hatch area.
Seal off the trunk area so the radiator is in its own sealed compartment. I would line it with some sort of heat reflective tape this will keep the heat from you. Also the radiator being in its own box will save you if something catastrophic happens and prevents you from being sprayed with hot AF coolant.
This is kind of hard to explain so, sorry if this is jibberish. I'd redo your lexan so that you can create some sort of lip over an opening in the lexan. In theory the lip will create an area of high pressure pulling the air from the low pressure inside the the trunk.
You will have to put some sort of intake to the front side radiators so that the air can flow. I wish I was good with CAD or paint I could draw something to explain it better.
got the car car out today and it was horribly horribly cold ... the PC said my IATs were 5 degrees ... The exhaust note sounded differently today than normal - quite possibly bc the cold IATs. Our shop apprentice, coincidently arrived at the shop when I was leaving and he followed me out and grabbed some video ... I'll get it uploaded as soon as he dials it down. I felt like I pushed the car pretty hard - 100% throttle and 5500rpm shifts first through 4th. I did tie-up the oil return scavenge line and I think the excessive smoking on throttle-lifts is either gone or mostly gone ... to be fair to the turbo, the outlet port on the turbo isnt but an inch or two higher than my bulkhead fitting on the oil pan. Might need to rethink this at somepoint in time??
A little experiment with the fuses ... I put a 15amp fuse in the holder and sure-enough it popped it right away. I then put a 25amp in and the 25amp fuse held the entire 30min / 20mile trip. A buddy was on his way over and tailed me and grabbed some video of the car running.
before & after
Originally Posted by Conway_160
This is my crazy idea.
Seal off the trunk area so the radiator is in its own sealed compartment. I would line it with some sort of heat reflective tape this will keep the heat from you. Also the radiator being in its own box will save you if something catastrophic happens and prevents you from being sprayed with hot AF coolant.
This is kind of hard to explain so, sorry if this is jibberish. I'd redo your lexan so that you can create some sort of lip over an opening in the lexan. In theory the lip will create an area of high pressure pulling the air from the low pressure inside the the trunk.
You will have to put some sort of intake to the front side radiators so that the air can flow. I wish I was good with CAD or paint I could draw something to explain it better.
That's a very practical idea CW - it'd be bad news to have that explode and go all over the place!
I sorta get what you're saying with the vents ... I was also thinking of installing another fan to pull hot air out?? I am working on the naca ducts and I think this will help too.
A little hiccup last week...Christmas day was pretty nice and I decided I'd take the car over to my sisters (where we were meeting for Christmas festives) and about 1/2way there my car stalled out and died. I was going about 50mph and was able to pull into a gas station. Did some on-the fly diagnosis and put 9gallons of fuel in the car, ensured I was getting power at the relay, and verified the relay was functioning(hard wired the pump) and everything led to the pump failure. I had my buddy's trailer and was ultimately able to get the car trailered home and back in the garage.
I was able to get the fuel basket removed and pump out and sure enough, the pump was bad. Swapped in the backup 525lph I have in my spares box and car fired up. Hit-up the seller and gonna see about warranty replacement.
The bigger story is the Unknown Performance shop picked up a DE G35 from a guy in Sacramento, California. Posted up on FB Marketplace for awhile and we were able to go grab the car, We also purchase a transmission and an ACT 6-puck clutch from him. The car is a pretty clean roller, caged, seem-welded, clean title, 130k miles, with some goodies, but no engine. The goal is to get it up and going by Zcon and ultimately use it as a dedicated track car. I'll probably start a thread for it.
A little hiccup last week...Christmas day was pretty nice and I decided I'd take the car over to my sisters (where we were meeting for Christmas festives) and about 1/2way there my car stalled out and died. I was going about 50mph and was able to pull into a gas station. Did some on-the fly diagnosis and put 9gallons of fuel in the car, ensured I was getting power at the relay, and verified the relay was functioning(hard wired the pump) and everything led to the pump failure. I had my buddy's trailer and was ultimately able to get the car trailered home and back in the garage.
I was able to get the fuel basket removed and pump out and sure enough, the pump was bad. Swapped in the backup 525lph I have in my spares box and car fired up. Hit-up the seller and gonna see about warranty replacement.
The bigger story is the Unknown Performance shop picked up a DE G35 from a guy in Sacramento, California. Posted up on FB Marketplace for awhile and we were able to go grab the car, We also purchase a transmission and an ACT 6-puck clutch from him. The car is a pretty clean roller, caged, seem-welded, clean title, 130k miles, with some goodies, but no engine. The goal is to get it up and going by Zcon and ultimately use it as a dedicated track car. I'll probably start a thread for it.
Weekend update...
sounds pitiful, but in the essences of crawl before you walk, walk before you run, run before you sprint - got the car out twice this past weekend and pushed it past 5500rpm, up towards 6000rpm on 10-12psi ... felt really good... no further issues past the dead fuel pump a week ago ... other than that been working on a turbo kit on a q50 and I think the Unknown Performance brand is going to release a catch can for sale. Check out facebook if you're interested.
A little update / tid-bit (that doesnt necessarily deserve a new post) and if you can conceptualize how my setup is plumbed and I have control over the electric water pump via a manual switch. Also know that i have a coolant pressure sensor to let me know when it's time for a rebuild. I started/idle the car last night to get it up to temp and play with my warm-up maps. When the car is running (and this is similar to the setup prior to trunk-mount radiator) the coolant system would build anywhere from 0 to 20psi ... so last night, when I would manually power on / power off the electric pump it would instantly send my coolant pressure to 0 psi. Electric pump off = anywhere from ~2psi to 15psi ... Electric PUmp on 0 psi ... I did when the car was warm/hot (~ 150* ect) the coolant pressure would be around 18psi to 20psi (with no electrical pump help) and when I would switch-on the pump coolant pressure would be around 1psi to 3psi ...
maybe the pump is creating a negative pressure on the side you are testing?
I think the pump is pulling coolant through the block and whether the thermostat is open or not (the plunger valve has a ~1/4" hole in it) it's alleviating the pressure within the block. Not 100% but that's what makes sense in my head!
OEM hard pipe on the back of the engine...I think the pump is pulling coolant in such a manner that pressure builds between the electric pump and the thermostat.
getting ballsy all the sudden ... decided to jump into anti-lag nothing crazy ... rewatched a webinar on HPA and enabled it ... nothing too too crazy. Happy to have some knowledge on it but I'll probably never run it ... too many bad stories of people compromising rings and damaging turbos...might use it for events & drag but keep it turned off for street.
Tinkered with my tune, was running 9 to 10psi (spring pressure only) and put some duty cycle in my boost control and pushing around 14 or 15psi now ... I had the car out today and basically was spinning tires ... albeit the roads have a healthy amount of sand/gravel on them and I have bad tires on the car...didnt push it too much tonight, sorta got freaked out with the gravel on the roads and bad tires!
A fellow shop / acquaintance-buddy (who I was supposed to do some fabrication/welding for, but never panned-out) just picked up a AWD Mustang Dyno ... I guess it needs a new RPM sensor but if I can get up there on friday gonna rent some dyno time and, if nothing more get some pulls in and see if I can play with my fuel tables (link has a pretty neat automated fuel tuning process ... sorta an autotune if you can control engine speed & load for +/-3 seconds per cell) also going to attempt to calibrate the knock sensor in low load / low speed that takes advantage of link's ability to safe-guard the engine...
12-01-2020, 10:15 PM
