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The more I think about it the more I think I'm gonna buy a set of 4" 240 grit and 320 grit. It'd be nice to have and between my buddy and I we have plenty of engines to play with.
Yea - Im thinking / leaning towards getting it more as insurance than the ability to push more power. I dont think I'll push this engine past the 700hp mark. Too much trouble with fire-rings, OEM HR gaskets and my L19s torqued to 105ft-lbs!
Im mostly worried about headwork and what it'll take to get the heads back to fighting weight ... if I can replace the compromised valves and assuming there is no damage to the heads than thats the route I'm gonna take. Head work will be crazy expensive and is months out. And the OEM valves didnt fail outside of my dumbass ... I need to get the engine out and disassembled to assess the damage.
I dont like spinning the engine to 6800! We'll see how funds are but if I can swing the new pump and new gear I will - it's always been one of those things that I've been meaning to upgrade and for how much oil line plumbing I have it'd be smart to have a beyond-capable pump.
Gotcha Gotcha, The extra torque on the heads is not a bad thing. And since you are running your oil cooler so far back, the extra volume and pressure the new pump can/will give will not be a bad thing. Since you have cams you need to spin the engine a little higher to take advantage of the flow. I try to not spin mine past 7200 since it looks like almost 7600 on the tach, its scary as crap.
I think the oil pump is good measure if nothing more - cost may hold me back depending on what I have to do with the heads and how long I want the car to be down.
I have JWT 262 cams - so nothing crazy and having the air pump shoving air into the cylinder always helps!
I try to shift when the tacho hits the 6 and usually the shift occurs around 6500 ... in ks I was hitting 6800 and change in 4th and 5th ... it felt good, it felt bad, it was definitely a good test of the engine.
For you i'd be shifting right after peak HP to try and get you back at peak tq. My cams are not bigger at 264's but it deff shifts power more to the right.
For you i'd be shifting right after peak HP to try and get you back at peak tq. My cams are not bigger at 264's but it deff shifts power more to the right.
I had to short shift 2nd & 3rd and Link’s traction control is inferior to OEM ... but I hear what you’re saying...
I doubt its inferior, just way more expensive to set up. I would bet you could put speed sensors on all four wheel and set up all sorts or limits.
That is awesome, i wonder if you'll make it in there video.
No it's inferior ... it takes wheel speed data from the front wheels and compares it to the rear wheels...if those values exceed a user-defined %% than it applies a ignition retard.
OEM will take wheel speed data from each individual wheel and also uses a steering angle input to develop a ignition cut and braking strategy to get the car back in line...wayyyyyy more inclusive than what Link does...
Yea, but if you set the threshold to lets say 4% then you never actally loose control and continue going staight until car gets traction back. Look at them 2000whp vipers, GTRs, and ProMod "Street cars" they all power vs non power tire spin differences. Now link may not be as good on a track but in a stright line i'd much rather have link.
Yea, but if you set the threshold to lets say 4% then you never actally loose control and continue going staight until car gets traction back. Look at them 2000whp vipers, GTRs, and ProMod "Street cars" they all power vs non power tire spin differences. Now link may not be as good on a track but in a stright line i'd much rather have link.
You can set different %% depending on different parameters but I know that OEM traction control and VDC has saved my *** multiple times. I am a proponent of OEM VDC and TC. I almost think that Link specifically didnt include a OEM equivilent VDC / TC bc not every model is equipped to handle that complexity of system and also the liability factor of someone crashing their car and blaming it on Link's VDC programming.
been stupid busy the few months to the effect that aside from about 3minutes of run time on the z I havent done a single thing.
Work has been nuts - I work for a small municipality (civil engineer / project manager) and we recently bid the largest project on our own (we'll partner with surrounding municipalities where they'll lead the project) - its about a 2mile stretch of urban corridor reconstruction, about 2years in duration, $25million and I'm second in command. Quite the opportunity - we kick off construction in a few weeks.
Some of you may know that I was partnered with a buddy in a performance brand (Unknown Performance) the partnership wasnt great and we both had different ideas on how to run the business and I decided to step down from a co-ownership, take a buy-out, and turnover full ownership to my buddy - were still buds and we are still working on things together but he's at the helm of the ship. This separation went down towards the beginning of 2021 but we still have a few cars to build for customers.
With that being said - quite possibly one of the hardest builds I've done was this 2015 q50 - this was the car we blew the engine on the dyno - I speculate, after investigating, that we overboosted the engine. We were pushing well into 550hp around 4000rpm on a OEM VHR with a 7at. Many ups and downs with this build but we powered through and the car came out pretty nice - very fast...was wildly impressed. I trash on the VHR quite a bit because anything past peak torque and the vehicle falls on it's face but you put a turbo on it and those higher RPMs regain power and they move. God bless VVT and VVEL!
I've been pecking away at this 7at 370z rear-mount kit and we got everything up and going yesterday, everything was amazing, and we got our low load / low RPM data logs sent to our tuner (Moncef) and he bounced them back and we are switching over to E85 tomorrow and we have a revised map for this transition (originally told Moncef we were doing 91 - the customer drove around denver for 4 hours trying to find a station that has e85).
Other news - bought a salvaged-out track version DE ... **** poor shape and will be taking the wheels and parting the rest of the car out.
Also found a killer deal on a 2015 q40 - needs an engine and a trans but I bought it for half of what KBB says it worth ... and it has $10k in legit aftermarket parts ... gonna mid-mount a blower on this one...
I feel comfortable enough to close the book on the 370 and dig into my car - I have a small list of upgrades that I will do while the engine is out but hoping to hone cylinders and replace rings, bearings, head gaskets, etc.
off the top of my head:
I'm pretty upset with steel braided hose / fittings and I think I'm going to transition all my steel braided hose lines to the highest quality rubber hoses I can get my hands on. Also going to ditch aluminum vacuum lines and go with 1/4" rubber hose as well.
relocate oil filter to the trunk
considering eliminating the OEM water pump and relying on electric pumps (I'd add a second)
eliminating the OEM hard brakelines and going with a pre-fab'd kit (gotta find the shop that makes them)
going to clean-up the wire harness - might source a new one (we'll see)
I'm considering dropping down in turbos ... we use those CX Racing X-Series turbos and for $600 you can get a medium/large dual ceramic ball bearing turbo ... the customer with the 370z has this and it's impressive and I want to get something that will spool up quicker too (TBD).
while the transmission is off I may trim-out some of where the blank starter slot on the driver's side ... I need to make more room right there to fit an exhaust if I ever want to do a rear-exit exhaust.
Considering a new oil pump and new oil pump gears (finances will determine this and I have some big stuff on the horizon).
more to come ... gonna try to bust this work out as quick as I can and get the q40 functioning.
Hope to have the block out tomorrow 100% ready for tear down Thursday.
front mont turbo looks awesome, I wanted to do that myself,
im interested in the coolant pipe delete and running it through the centre, have you've ever done that?
im still debating what manifold to fab, kinetix or Gtr
front mont turbo looks awesome, I wanted to do that myself,
im interested in the coolant pipe delete and running it through the centre, have you've ever done that?
im still debating what manifold to fab, kinetix or Gtr
The grass is greener on the other side ... I've thought about going mid-mount for awhile but I do like this front mount. But really really really thinking about buying an abnormally small turbo that'll make boost in a fraction of a second ...
What a damn day ... up at 6am for a 7am to 9am field meeting and conference calls blasted through the entire day ... f I'm beat! Got data logs over to Moncef for the 370z and despite the car not being completely tuned the customer took the car. The car is a legit 370z nismo ... didnt realize nissan made the nismo with an 7at and I only drove the car for 5minute and only a few pulls to 6000rpm around 7psi but I honestly thought the car should have been faster - maybe it's just me and/or that its a partial tune ... it's also on e85.
Had to grab my engine stand and a replacement solenoid for the welder gas flow (the tig broke down) from my buddies place and then had to run into the office to print some plans. Didnt get home until 7pm and didnt get going on the car until 8pm but 12midnight and the engine out of the car and set down on wood blocks...
I really really really gotta remember to drain the transmission fluid before picking the block ... I drained oil and coolant but how'd I forget the trans fluid...
Thinking about items to replace while the engine is out:
Rings
Head gaskets
Bearings
Oil pump/oil pump gear
Fuel line connection/junction (the one I made before looks like junk and I'll redo it)
Flywheel bolts
Upper oil pan
Clutch Disk
Hoses / vac lines
Break-in oil
Trans fluid
Engine Oil
Clutch fluid
Also think I going to spend a little cash on some shop tools
Thinking a micrometer set and bore gauge - nothing fancy maybe a $200 between the both of them
An ARP 11mm x 1.25 head stud thread chaser
ball-hones
electronic ring file wheel
probably no work tomorrow and minimal work over the weekend but more to come!
What a friday night ... got going on getting the transmission off the engine, remaining items off the engine and getting the engine on the stand. I was beyond motivated and those mini-impact wrenches are a huge time saver! Despite a few hiccups (mostly with getting the crank pulley off the car, losing tools, and cleaning up spills) I was able to get everything disassembled - I was super motivated to get piston #1 out and inspected. I started work around 7pm and didnt stop until 5am ... I was coming in the house and the skies were just getting some sunlight ... best feeling ever!
A few take aways
I likely damaged the exhaust valves in cylinder 1 ... I did Conway's brake cleaner test and filled all the exhaust valves last thing and this morning they were all about the same except cylinder 1 ... one port was empty and the other was 50% full (compared to the other ports). Good news, all the intake ports are consistent. So I'm gonna get my heads over to my buddy's shop and get them cleaned and let me check them out.
I'm pretty upset with ACL bearings ... I know I drive this car hard and likely this is my fault but 75% of the bearings are showing copper wear ... pretty disappointed and will likely go with King Bearings on my rebuilt. Wondering if I should go back to a normal oil bearing clearance??
1. what Bearing Clearance?
2. What Oil?
3. What Oil Pump?
Originally Posted by bealljk
What a friday night ... got going on getting the transmission off the engine, remaining items off the engine and getting the engine on the stand. I was beyond motivated and those mini-impact wrenches are a huge time saver! Despite a few hiccups (mostly with getting the crank pulley off the car, losing tools, and cleaning up spills) I was able to get everything disassembled - I was super motivated to get piston #1 out and inspected. I started work around 7pm and didnt stop until 5am ... I was coming in the house and the skies were just getting some sunlight ... best feeling ever!
A few take aways
I likely damaged the exhaust valves in cylinder 1 ... I did Conway's brake cleaner test and filled all the exhaust valves last thing and this morning they were all about the same except cylinder 1 ... one port was empty and the other was 50% full (compared to the other ports). Good news, all the intake ports are consistent. So I'm gonna get my heads over to my buddy's shop and get them cleaned and let me check them out.
I'm pretty upset with ACL bearings ... I know I drive this car hard and likely this is my fault but 75% of the bearings are showing copper wear ... pretty disappointed and will likely go with King Bearings on my rebuilt. Wondering if I should go back to a normal oil bearing clearance??
Progress ...
Ordered a micrometer set, a bore gauge, and the thread chaser ... will have a few more things to order tonight...
got each valve out (using the JWT valve compressor tool) and organized everything.
Took measurements of the valves and nothing jumped out at me (although I did not measure the valve buckets/valve caps). I took the dremel with a small wire brush wheel and cleaned each valve and each valve seat and runner (as best as possible). Each were embarrassingly dirty - wonder if the valve seats were extremely dirty and just not sealing. Valve guides on the exhaust were very dirty - if hot bathing the heads doesnt clean them up I'm going to replace all 24 of them.
Plan moving forward will be to reinstall valves and test to see how well they hold liquid (will likely use water). If the valves dont seal that I'll take them into my machinist and get guidance on how to move forward.
I think I'm going to replace the crank shaft too - there are scratches in each journal that look / feel relatively bad. I think this is the next step on the path to recovery.
Was able to remove the rings on cylinder #1 and inspected the ring seats and both look fine ... Still going to replace rings & ball hone the cylinder walls
When I first disassembled the donor engine for my project all the exhaust valve guides were crusted with grime and even a wire wheel wouldn’t take it off, I ended up filling the exhaust port with denatured alcohol and it softened up the grime and made it much easier to remove
When I first disassembled the donor engine for my project all the exhaust valve guides were crusted with grime and even a wire wheel wouldn’t take it off, I ended up filling the exhaust port with denatured alcohol and it softened up the grime and made it much easier to remove
the intake valves were very easy to clean and the exhaust valves didnt have much resistance. Have you ever used valve grinding compound?
04-23-2021, 08:46 AM
