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There is one more thing I forgot and to be honest my information on it is limited but there are bus bars wrapped in the harness right next to the ecu connector that use what I think is a DJ621-G2*0.6A female spade terminal pin. I ordered 200 from China of what I think is the right pin but I won’t know for certain until early to late October, if it’s the right pin I can send some your way I would only need 36 pins but the minimum order quantity was 200
Those are ‘power supplies’ and common grounds for the high-precision voltage powered sensors? And a common ground for the aforementioned sensors I believe?
If and when the time comes I’m going to eliminate them and distribute power in a different manner (not 100% sure yet)
Those are ‘power supplies’ and common grounds for the high-precision voltage powered sensors? And a common ground for the aforementioned sensors I believe?
If and when the time comes I’m going to eliminate them and distribute power in a different manner (not 100% sure yet)
that’s correct, what would you do in place of them? The only other method I know of is barrel crimping multiple wires in one spot
Got the car out for phase 3 of break-in … got the car up to temp and pushed the car up to 5000rpm and 50% to 60% throttle and reached around 2psi of boost over a 20minute run. Ran some back hills and pushed the car up the hill and put it in vacuum on the downside of the hills.
The car is doing better with overheating, still overheating, but not nearly as quick and it’s coming down on temp if running low rpms … I did get some air out of the system and I put six 4” holes in the rear hatch area to evacuate air but I’m not sure if this is enough … not sure why the car is overheating now but wasnt overheating before.
The car is doing better with overheating, still overheating, but not nearly as quick and it’s coming down on temp if running low rpms … I did get some air out of the system and I put six 4” holes in the rear hatch area to evacuate air but I’m not sure if this is enough … not sure why the car is overheating now but wasnt overheating before.
I think adding the rear mount made a system that is notorious for bubbles even more challenging to bleed. Are you running any type of swirl pot system to capture air? Do you still have the heater core? I forget?
I think adding the rear mount made a system that is notorious for bubbles even more challenging to bleed. Are you running any type of swirl pot system to capture air? Do you still have the heater core? I forget?
No swirl pot … nah, no heater core and I have eliminated everything but the inlet and the outlet (and the turbo coolant lines) … I’m gonna keep running it and see how it does. I didn’t have this many problems before.
Another 20minutes of hard/harder pulls. Still only hitting 5000rpm but going full throttle in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear…The car is definitely smoking less but I am getting some smoke on decel … and very well could be my turbo seals as the exhaust is clear all the other times …
For what it’s worth, the CX Racing .84 AR turbo came in and I am gonna swap that onto the car relatively soon … will need to make a new charge pipe from the turbo to the IC and a new exhaust pipe off the turbo but nothing too crazy…
I had a little light bulb moment in that I have my oil cooler right in front of my radiator and I wonder if the radiator is not getting enough airflow and thus not cooling air … simple fix will be to detach the oil cooler and zip tie it out of the way.
Another brain trickle while driving home (from work, in the pickup) I believe I am not getting a AFR signal from my widebands … the AEM isn’t reading and the link is setup to default to 14.7 when it doesn’t have a signal … And it’s pretty common knowledge that a richer AFR will carry heat out of the cylinders … so as I’m pushing the car (and really only up to 5k rpm and 2psi) I am wondering if my stoich AFR (when I should be running rich) is contributing to my overheating?
been working on the q most the week and haven’t had time on the z … but have most the day today to chase down the wideband issue …
still running the larger turbo … I have coolant line fittings coming for the new turbo and I need to redo the charge pipe and the exhaust
also pulled the trigger on a sainsmart 4030 desktop mill … should be here next week … learning carveco maker and gonna start milling stuff…
An easy sunday … The o2 sensor issue was bothering me so I did a continuity test on the ‘o2 sensor’ to ‘gauge’ wire and everything checked out. I had the power / ground / signal wire harness pulled from the car and it tested fine but I remember when I built this I was sorta in a hurry and I slapped it together good enough to get it done. I decided to break it down and start fresh. I did need to use the pigtails from the AEM setup (4 pin - red 12v, black ground, white 0-5v analog out, blue AEM specific). I left about 6” on each pigtail and combined the power and ground respectively and then ran new signal wires from each UEGO to the Link inputs. I used only tefzel wire, a 1/4” eyelet for the ground and a piggyback fuse for the 12volt. Put nylon shething around and heat-shrink’d the ends. It came out well but the wiring issue was still occuring intermittently. I wiggled the wires behind the gauge and it started working … so I think I have a pin that isnt making a great connection - shouldnt be too difficult to fix.
I did get the car out for another 30minutes of pulls and vacuum load … I did move the oil cooler off the radiator and this did help … I didnt overheat but I think I would have if I would have kept driving the car but it wasnt nearly as hot in the trunk area as before. Next thing to chase will be fans. May revise the fan setup and hook them directly to the battery via a relay.
An easy sunday … The o2 sensor issue was bothering me so I did a continuity test on the ‘o2 sensor’ to ‘gauge’ wire and everything checked out. I had the power / ground / signal wire harness pulled from the car and it tested fine but I remember when I built this I was sorta in a hurry and I slapped it together good enough to get it done. I decided to break it down and start fresh. I did need to use the pigtails from the AEM setup (4 pin - red 12v, black ground, white 0-5v analog out, blue AEM specific). I left about 6” on each pigtail and combined the power and ground respectively and then ran new signal wires from each UEGO to the Link inputs. I used only tefzel wire, a 1/4” eyelet for the ground and a piggyback fuse for the 12volt. Put nylon shething around and heat-shrink’d the ends. It came out well but the wiring issue was still occuring intermittently. I wiggled the wires behind the gauge and it started working … so I think I have a pin that isnt making a great connection - shouldnt be too difficult to fix.
I did get the car out for another 30minutes of pulls and vacuum load … I did move the oil cooler off the radiator and this did help … I didnt overheat but I think I would have if I would have kept driving the car but it wasnt nearly as hot in the trunk area as before. Next thing to chase will be fans. May revise the fan setup and hook them directly to the battery via a relay.
Have you seen FasterProms latest video of their LS 370Z. I would try to recreate their air solution. Now I understand you do not want to cut a licenses plate sized hole in your trunk, but more air in and out is better heat transfer.
I like the idea of fans on dedicated switch AND some sort of temperature relay.
A buddy said get some water wetter in the system and see how it does … drained out about 32ounces of coolant and replaced with VP Cool Down. Started the car, got it up to temp and was doing some 1000rpm to 5500rpm pulls I think I spun a bearing - good g-d’it …
it may have happened the last time I had the car out as I was beating on it pretty good and confirmed it yesterday!
I got the q40 VHR build going and want to get it up and going before I dig back into the z33.
Also got this desktop cnc up and going and want to cut some parts!
LOL! I was pushing the engine pretty hard, dare I say I was trying to break it!
Im enjoying it though - gonna start ordering parts soon! I also didnt (or dont have a solid recollection of) clocking my piston rings ... so I'll make sure to do this. Nothing was running out of it's normal operating ranges so I 'dont' think I did anything wrong ... **** happens...
Do you know what kind of boost pressure you were putting through it. It is incredible how some builds go so smoothly and some are just problem after problem.
Like 10psi to 12psi … I dont think this is ‘problem after problem’ … to think that a built engine will last 100k to 200k miles is wishful thinking … if you have a built block and it lasts that long you are not driving the car to its full potential and youre leaving power/torque/performance on the table. Or you severly overbuilt your block!
I got the engine up and going and break it. 100% on me. After I got through the low and mid level rpms in break-in I was going full throttle 2nd through 4th (up to 5500 - 6000rpm) and vacuum braking all the way down. I’d rather it break out here to where I have time to fix it than have it break at the track unexpectedly.
Since last week I’ve had a chance to reflect and pondered a few things that ‘may’ have gone wrong …
I was still running my kansas tune - which boost levels should have been fine but I didnt have 100% 116oct in the tank. My ignition timing towards redline at 20psi is 14 or 16 degrees which isnt bad and when you factor that down I was probably closer to 12 to 14degrees at 6000rpm?? Not sure, I wasnt picking up an detonation but this could have contributed??
I rear-mounted my oil cooler and filter and I am thinking that this caused a drop in oil pressure - between the 20 to 22ft of extra hose along with the filter and cooler being so far away I wonder if oil pressure wasnt keeping up with the engine in the higher RPMs … Moving forward I will be doing a more traditional oil cooler / filter setup - move things back up front and I’ll likely drop down in oil cooler size (I’ve got a few setrabs sitting on the shelf).
I rear-mounted my oil cooler and filter and I am thinking that this caused a drop in oil pressure - between the 20 to 22ft of extra hose along with the filter and cooler being so far away I wonder if oil pressure wasnt keeping up with the engine in the higher RPMs … Moving forward I will be doing a more traditional oil cooler / filter setup - move things back up front and I’ll likely drop down in oil cooler size (I’ve got a few setrabs sitting on the shelf).
just a thought but you could run the oem oil cooler (oil/water) and just keep it separate from the main cooling system. after tinkering with mine the past few weeks its probably what I'm going to switch to. plus water has a higher heat capacity and thermal connectivity (absorbs and dissipates heat faster than oil)
just a thought but you could run the oem oil cooler (oil/water) and just keep it separate from the main cooling system. after tinkering with mine the past few weeks its probably what I'm going to switch to. plus water has a higher heat capacity and thermal connectivity (absorbs and dissipates heat faster than oil)
Very good points but it's clutter'ery and I want to keep them separate for simplicity.
I'm wrapping up this Q40 build and I have a little turbo toyota tocoma project I'm doing for a buddy and I'm weighing options ...
I'm thinking about the oil system and getting everything back up to the front of the car, reduce hose lengths and put the filter back on the upper oil pan. This works in conjunction with an oil pan spacer / high capacity oil pan idea that I've been tinkering with.
or, thinking what it takes to do a dry sump system - I really like the benefits of a dry sump and I think I can accomplish this by fabricating a sump off the bottom of the upper oil pan. Put a cog-pulley where the AC belt goes, and put the pump where the AC compressor was. Plumb it straight into the engine where the filter was - will require some fabrication on the upper oil pan but I think I can do it relatively easy. I also like the idea of added engine oil, moving oil supply to the rear of the car, and the benefits of the pump pulling crank case pressure out.
Got the car up in air and getting items off. I probably need 1/2day to finish taking the small stuff off and can have the engine out.
Going to revise a few things on the rebuild -
back to 100% stock oil filter location with a smaller, front mounted oil cooler, with as minimal amount of hose. I think the oil cooler is really the only external hose that would impact the oiling of the engine?
I have ideas for a dry sump setup but I think it’s too much for this refresh and I just bought a bunch of engine parts.
clean up the coolant pressure sensor and eliminate the mechanical gauge
clean up the fuel pressure sensor, fab up a better ‘manifold’ and relocate the fuel plumbing closer to the brake booster/driver side.
I am pretty disgusted with the OEM wire harness and I really want to re-do it - to this end, I know it’s super complicated and I may start by re-vamping the easy/uncomplicated/analog subharnesses that feed to the main harness. (Oil pressure sensor, alternator signal, neutral position, reverse position, coolant temp, etc).
09-04-2021, 04:08 AM
