I have a good condition used garret 60 trim t3/t4

 

UPDATE
Used a bolt extractor to get rid of the manifold to downpipe studs out

Moved power steering cooler to wheel well

Bolted up piping completely up to the turbocharger

Started routing charge piping and mounted intercooler(solid, but need to clean bracket up)

Installed Sandwich plate and oil line(need to get a 90 degree fitting for turbo)

Bolted stock plenum back on

Sandwich plate with oil feed VVVVV



Had to cut part of the plastic/metal near the rad support in the fender to fit charge piping vvvvvvvvv


Intake pipe to filter, filed down rad support to fit VVV







Left side of intercooler piping to intake touches plastic radiator support, will need to trim vvvvvv





Oil pan spacer ready to install VVVVV



Downpipe needed some hammer time. The pipe had to be squared off to be able to bolt. VVV



Brackets for intercooler VVV

 

subbed

 

In for result. Kinda sketched out by how everything is pounded/cut into place...

 

Haha, it ALMOST fits. I think the kit would have been better with regular 2-3 bolt flanges instead of the v-bands because it would have been easier to position the pipes correctly. So, they may have been just off or I may just have positioned one pipe off the manifold slightly off, but I couldn't budge them at all...it's a very tight fit.

To Do. hook up wastegate(waiting on gaskets), boost gauge(waiting on shipping), lines, oil pan spacer, upload TN map to Utec, finish installing downpipe and the rest of the exhaust...might be some other things i'm missing

 

interesting... I did a ebay turbo on my civic and well.. that ended horribly, then again I wasn't really mechanically prepared nor was I financially well off at the time. I however am pretty decent now so I opted to go with a reputable brand, but if you can pull it off... cool!

 

^
^
Wana see a REALLY TIGHT FIT?
( kinda/ no homo lol)

3 in down pipe of my pt6266.. had to change header tube positions ( refabbing) and even then..there's like a paper thickness of space on each side of that pipe..that spot is a ***** for single turbo builds.

 

The heat wrap from the first part of the downpipe is touching the frame. The pipe from the manifold is almost touching the tranny and is touching the ac line. Multiple locations of charge pipe/intake are touching the plastic radiator support

 

deadeye, you don't have to justify anything…it's YOUR money and YOUR car and YOUR time!

That's badass that you are ahead on things …you have your priorities in the right order. I think you're doing the right thing…if you want to do a budget build, DO IT!!!

I don't understand the 'haters' that have tuned-in…if you don't like what deadeye is doing - DONT READ THE THREAD!! 2/3rds of the threads on this forum I couldnt give 2 ***** about…and guess what, I don't read them, I don't post on them, I don't waste my time with them...

If I could offer 1 piece of advice (which may or may not have been covered) don't push it…keep your boost low and ease into the power…see how your car does at 3psi, then 5psi then 7 psi…

good luck and keep us posted!

 

Thanks.

Ordered nrev magnetic drain plug.

 

Just thought I would get another post added to my count and mention, most of the guys with built cars/big hp and lots of posts say one thing. Those who do not have built cars, and have low counts say another thing entirely.

Just thought I would point it out.

 

theres a difference between "hater" and giving sound advice, if telling someone not to use a turbo that has blown 99% of the time in every application its been used(and again i do mean used, not installed on the car and it is driving normally and not even hitting boost) or not to use junk parts is being a hater well then i guess every single reputable shop out there is just haters and dosnt know what they are talking about.

putting 20k-30k into a 7k-10k car makes far more sense then spending 90k on a car then adding another 20k in parts to it to get the same output. the cheaper platforms are what creates innovation and new products not the higher end stuff because theres not as much money selling a couple 20k product vs hundreds of 5k products.

like i said before though im waiting for the blown engine, its guaranteed that the two projects he had that ebay turbos "worked" he either hardly ever or never saw boost on them(making it more pointless then **** on a guy) or he has such good luck that he should be playing the lottery.

and thats not even touching the performance aspect of the fact that they will spool as slow as a 67 or 71mm turbo but only produce the power of a single 18g at least for the 5k miles they last

 

My only problem with ebay turbos is blowing the seals. I had a t3/t4 hybrid .63 on my kia sephia (I had first documented turbo kia sephia) I was pushing half the boost of my buddy with a fully build kia spectra and I was running .6 sec faster quarter miles and I was in boost as much as possible (loved the RFL BOV)
Now I have no idea what the flow is going to be for this turbo or if it's even the same output as the 60-1 turbonetics it replicates.
I can't really see the turbo"grenade-ing" and I'm not worried about it. The only thing I'm worried about is the seals going and if that's the case the turbo is easily accessible in this kit, but I only drive my 350z about 3500 miles a year . . .so who knows how long that will take.

 

love how people(bealjk)are talking about tuning for various levels of boost below the wastegate spring pressure.

Do you really know how it works?

Are you going to swap the springs for him, pay for his tunes?

A 5psi springs doesnt magically open at 5psi and shut at 4.99999 psi ect

 

ive seen plenty of em and pretty easy to with a quick google search, the bearings are junk and like resmarted said many of them arnt even balanced(look at what happens with wheels, turbo is spinning as fast as wheels at idle.....) thats why most "budget" people use holset turbos now, pretty much the same price but holset is an actual quality piece

 

I think he assumed to switch out wastegate springs?

I'm tuning myself

 

Amazing how good advise falls on deaf ears and some random noob who doesn't know $h!t labels it as hating.

 

The holset will be an option when the the turbo goes

 

Wow dude....

Anyways I too will be doing something similar very soon with my 06 6MT G35 sedan but with a few mods to make it a solid reliable install. I plan on getting this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/GSP-03-06-35...44606b&vxp=mtr Heat wrap all exhaust piping, check and make sure the turbo is a genuine turbonetics turbo if its not I'll try and get a Garrett GT37R or a Precision 6262, toss that intercooler and use my Apexi one, toss that BOV and use my Greddy Type R, toss that wastegate and purchase a Tial 38mm MVS, DW 600cc injectors, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, CJM stage 0 fuel return system, AEM Meth kit, an oil cooler kit, Pro sport Boost;water temp;oil temp;oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges and an innovate wideband. All this will be professionally dyno tuned using Osiris. My friend has a muffler/fab shop and built me a nice 2.5" catback system using my 3" Apexi WS2 muffler (it turned out good and sounds awesome) I will have him tweak my intercooler piping if need be and connect the downpipe to my current exhaust piping. IIdeadeyeII I am so glad I stumbled across your thread I have been eyeing this kit for a good while now and will be purchasing the one I linked above in a few weeks. Here is a few pics of my car at my friends shop last year getting the exhaust work done oh and if its a problem I can remove them. SUBSCIBED!!!!!!!

 

I love all the advice everyone is still trying to give him about reputable brands... when clearly he is set on doing this complete budget build. I don't think anyone but him has money/time on the line. So why not just sit back and watch this thing get 100hp for less than what some of you spent on your exhaust alone. If it blows - cool... if it doesnt - even better. It's a win/win.