sracura

iTrader: (4)

Any vids or updates?

DaveJackson

iTrader: (5)

^^ Mullet Machine is my new favorite term!!
I LoL'd my **** off!

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

I definately will be getting some work done on this sunday, so I will update then, but I was able to trade my godspeed wastegate/springs for a used tial 38mm wastegate :

bmyles

Aha! So you DID listen to everybody after all

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Haha, I spoke too soon. He says he installed it and it stays open(at idle) even with a 9lb spring which is really weird since it's very hard to push open with just your thumbs and I can't see that much pressure coming from the exhaust manifold even if the rear tailpipe was blocked off. (2003 kia spectra log style manifold)

So I guess I'm getting it back and I will see if it has a problem on my car staying open

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

did him plumb it to the top of the wastegate?

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

He said he put the line fron the turbo outlet on the buttom(how it's suppose to be) and on the top. He also did a manifold pressure line on the top and bottom. Seems weird. I should be able to start the car sunday to see if it has the same problem.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

poppet valve

turbo pressure to the bottom and either Atmosphere on top, or EBC output to the top

Scrildo

If its the older 2 bolt tial wastegate i bet that the ring at the bottom of the wastegate is missing.

bmyles

It's not just the 2-bolt Tials. The v-band style Tials use it as well and it's called the "fire ring."

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Yup the ring wasn't there, but he left my wastegate over an hour away. I have some pictures I'll upload in a few.

Finished exhaust(two clamps broke and had to order some obx ones)
Welded a bung for the wideband(forgot to take a pic of it)
Installed 90 degree fitting for turbo oil feed.
Installed oil pan spacer and magnetic drain plug.
Modified exhaust transmission mount that came with the kit(it was way off so I cut the tabs off and just drilled my own holes)
Installed 50mm BOV with 7psi spring as an overboost protection(doesn't fit very well at all)
Wrapped a few more pipes/ A/C lines with titanium exhaust wrap

sracura

iTrader: (4)

Quick question, Where did you install the MAF? .... BTW build looks good

Highway Riding

iTrader: (6)

GL with the rest man.....

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

I'm not running a MAF. I am going to tune with a MAP sensor

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

mayby im just blind but it looks like your running 2x BOV's? thought you where going to run a wastegate on the cold side for overboost protection? not that it really gona save the turbo but 2x bov's wont do anything since vacuum is what opens the bov so in boost neither will open regardless of what spring you put in. you would need a wastegate that is referenced to the intake on the cold side for that to work.

unless it is a wastegate then carry on but it dosnt look like it

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

There is a wastegate with a 5psi spring, but I havent installed it yet. It's a 3 hr round trip to go get it at my friends house becuase he forgot it when he came over this weekend.

The gold BOV will not have any vacuum put to it. It will open up only if my wastegate fails and is set to open around 7 psi, so I'm really using it as a overboost bypass valve.

I am not worried about the turbo, just saving the motor if something was to happen

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

thats not going to work unfortinately, bov's dont open from pressure pushing against them neither do wastegates, they open from the reference lines. in the case of a bov it needs to see vacuum in combination of boost on the bottom to open. a wastegate needs boost on the bottom combined with the pressure of the exhuast to open. without reference lines it neither will open until far past what its made to. people have to hit 30 psi or more to get a bov to open without vaccum like your trying and even then it only opens 1-2%.

if you dont believe me feel free to try it yourself. pressure test the bottom side of the bov you will see even setup like you have it 30 psi or more will barely open the wastegate but as little as 17 inchs of vacuum will full open the bov with 0 pressure on the bottom side. thats how they are designed to work and you have to understand the concept of operation in order to design a safety system like your trying. it still dosnt protect from bad bearings, tubines, and compressors but if your trying to set up some sort of overboost protection that actually works then do it correctly.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

I used to run a RFL bov on my sephia and it would open at 3psi without any hose attached to it. I added some washers and it opened around 6psi without any hose.

Do you know how strong I would have to be to push the bov open with my thumb if it required 30psi to open? About 94lbs of thumb strength

It does work and I've done it before
Look up push type BOV

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Push Type. In this configuration, pressure is pushing against the valve and inherently wants to open it. The spring pressure is what keeps it closed and it's operation is triggered by both the pressure on the valve and the vacuum assist to overcome the spring pressure and ultimately pushes the valve open, hence the name Push Type. This type of valve is less desired in high boost/flow applications but is ideal for stock level and moderately modified applications. With this type of valve you don't need a strong vacuum source to successfully operate the valve and its reaction time is very quick. It lends itself well to applications utilizing large cams and is useful in driving situations that see many large throttle deltas in a short amount of time such as in an autocross event. It is also least likely to cause compressor surge but you risk leaking boost under high boost pressure applications.

Pull Type. In this configuration, pressure is pushing against the valve and inherently wants to close it. It's operation is triggered by the vacuum assist combined with the spring pressure and ultimately pulls the valve open, hence the name Pull Type. This type of valve requires a stronger vacuum signal to operate and its reaction time is slower. This type of valve lends itself well to high boost and flow applications and is better suited for 1/4 mile and 0-60 where shifting is quick and concise. There is a higher propensity for compressor surge with this type of valve how ever the higher levels of residual pressure that remains inside the intercooler piping is desired when racing the quarter mile. This will decrease spool time because the piping does not have to fill with so much pressure during the onset of power. Some of it is already there. With a pull type valve you have a balance between pressure release and surge

You're thinking off a pull type bov

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

Really think you need to start looking at how things are actually put togeather instead of what your told. Both types have the spring pushing them **** only difference is push type the boost is trying to push it open making it easier to open and pull type the boost is pushing on the back helping hold it shut.

If you can push it open with your thumb its not holding anything, with a 4 psi spring I can barely push open a wastegate(which a wastegate and push type are very similar opration just if they use boost or vacuum.) At least a good one. If your pushing it open then its constantly leaking and your actually spinning the turbo faster then needed for the set boost pressure and increasing the chance of it grenading.

LThe more you post the more I think your kias saw boost once mayby twice and that's why they dint grenade and trash the entire engine. Either type of bov will open all day with a vacuum line hooked up but shouldn't open without it