I would expect your setup to be pretty even with the standard 2.87 setup. If anything, you will be spinning the blower slightly more. So hitting your 400 mark should not be an issue as long as you have the fuel and other mods to supply it

 

STOCK PULLEY (5.75) 2.87 @ 6,800 rpm = 56,200 rpm
ATI PULLEY - (6.61) 3.33 @ 6,800 rpm = 55,700 rpm
It's roughly the same. WHP will be a little lighter than what's typical because it's an fx35 awd.

 

Oh I didn't realize you had the smaller Ati pulley. With AWD playing an effect too you will probably be very close to that 400 mark, but every car is a little different so there is only one way to find out

 

For the vq35de engine it's the standard 6.61". I can go w/different sc pulleys & cog belt pulleys when the engine is built but for now, this will be a big bump in power & I'd like to take time & get used to it & time to work out bugs before going all out. Considered a turbo or tt but the auto isn't going to allow for a big instant hit of torque + I don't care for the heat.
Don't know if my kinetix v-plenum will hold on for now, but got that, kinetix hfc's, invidia de & lots of weight removal. My goal is to build the fastest fx35 1/4 mile time recorded. Not that important, but gotta have a goal. Here's a thread I started on an fx site mostly regarding my wire tuck - https://www.infinitiscene.com/thread...-redux.230572/

That v7 you have sounds pretty serious.

 

Hopefully your AT will handle that. I imagine it wont appreciate a couple AWD launches.

And my v7 is a JT, so its a happy middle between the v2-TI and the v7-YSI. We will see how it handles being spun near 80k rpm...

 

That'll potentially be an issue. It's good that a % of power is distributed away from the rear for multiple reasons but, as you wrote, the trans will take all the shock. It does allow for reducing wheel width & weight as weight is an issue, not traction. What I run at the track, I can duplicate on the street.
Apparently, the biggest issue is slipping per others & IPT. Hoping the stocker will hold low 4's for awhile. When engine gets built so will trans. For now, the transgo sk is the only change I've made.

 

xxx

 

Not sure what u mean by xxx but always good to hear from the record holder.
Been reading https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...stions-78.html and it's interesting reading through years of vortech experience all in one shot. Invaluable info.

 

Anyone with the knowledge and willingness to share please do. I could use it. I'm getting ready to buy everything I need & install it but will not moving forward until I have it all figured out. One thing will be the i.c. piping & I'll be on my own with that. The thing I'm getting hung up on is removing my crank pulley & installing the ATI. Been researching and no luck yet but I haven't scoured ati's site nor have I checked the fsm.
Is there anything special about installing a damper pulley? What's the best way to not only remove the existing crank pulley but also to install & torque the ati? Strap or chain wrench? Thanks in advance.

 

Bueller... Bueller... Anyone out there with knowledge & willing to share, please tell me how did you properly torque the crank bolt on whatever crank pulley you installed on whatever engine you installed it on, whenever you installed it. There's got to be someone out there that has installed their own crank pulley & torqued it properly.

 

Whether its 'proper' or not, this is my method:

First off I have the ATI crank pulley. This one is MUCH tighter of a squeeze than the stock one. So I get it lined up and pressed in with a rubber mallet. Making sure its in straight. Mine is so tight I couldn't hammer it in, so I make sure I have enough threads to grab the crankshaft and I pull it in using air tools. Once its in all the way I let the compressor fill back up and hit it a couple more times. I generally just stops turning after the second time. Ive done that will every crank pulley Ive had and never had an issue

 

I've read lots of people doing it the way you described without issue. Gonna have to keep researching. Guess I'll use a harmonic balancing install tool, lube, loc-tite & a chain wrench. If I do it improperly, I'll be the one guy who has issues, I just know it.

 

 

Read up on oldman350z's car. I believe he's been over 60k without issue for a long time.

 

62,000

 

For what its worth, my v7-JT trim is rated to 60k rpm from vortech and I spin it over 77k rpm rather frequently

 

In for results