esdot

I've just gotten a Vortech SC installed, w/ 3.12 pulley. I have stock injectors, but upgraded the fuel pump to a Walbo 255 to make sure I had plenty of fuel.

Under WOT, my AF ratio goes down to 10.00, which seems to be the lowest the AEM Wideband will read.

The closest Tuner is 2hrs away and I'm trying to book an appointment.

In the meantime I'm wondering if I need to be super careful with the engine? Can I do any major damage by running rich? The power feels nice, and there's no sputtering or excessive smoke.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

what are you tuning with? guessing since you left it out you are going osirus.

Be careful, cylinder wash.
lay off the throttle until you get it tuned.
Get a utec for 250 in the mean time and tweak the fuel map.

esdot

Was planning on using the SS box that comes with the kit? It's not branded, but according to the forums it's an FTC1...not 100% sure if this is still the case. The Vortech part list is no help

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

That is the Split Second FTC1 Box.....

Do you have access to the SS box via labtop?

Do you have the SS software?

Are you datalogging AFR's?, that's the only way to do it. Can't do it by watching an AFR gauge.

Most tuners have no Idea how to work the software and tune with it. Make sure your tuner knows it well....

The SS Box works well, that's what I use, I've done all my own tuning.

If I can help, let me know...

TimRod

binder

iTrader: (8)

Running too rich can cause the engine to overheat and at worst it can cause cylinder wash which damages the cylinder walls. With something that only goes to 10:1 you don't know how rich you really are so I would keep it to a minimum.

If it's getting 10:1 on just cruise (vacuum) then that is HORRIBLE since the factory has a 20% correction so it is pulling 20% fuel and you are still way under stoich (14.7).

2 hours for a tuner is nothing. Most of us drive 6+ hours to get our cars tuned.

esdot

Sweet, thanks guys.

Ya the Tuner in Red Deer has tons of experience, and explicitly lists SS on their website. No one locally has the experience.

It runs about perfect at idle around 14.7, under WOT from roll, it quickly drops from 12 > 10.0 once it gets >3000RPM or so. It's definitely not at 10.0 when just cruising at partial throttle.

I'll take it easy for now (AARRGH!), don't wan't to take any chances. Makes me wonder if I should look into street tuning it myself, is there's a significant cost to the Software etc?

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

http://www.splitsec.com/pricelist.html


R4 Disc R4 Engine Management Software $49

esdot

Nice, so basically buy the software, and then it requires a bit of additional wiring to get it to log the AF ratio?

Edit- Actually, found this thread, answers most of my other questions. Cheers,
https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/4366...what-else.html

Boosted Performance

iTrader: (14)

I was out last night, and there are a lot of speed traps, so watch where you speed.

esdot

Ya man, last night was crazzzy... I picked my car up at the shop, and of course I bagged it all the way home... I must've seen 8-9 different cop cars and it was only like 6pm. Was lucky to make it home without any hassles.

binder

iTrader: (8)

The cost of replacing an engine if you don't know what you are doing.

esdot

Looks like I won't be able to get into the tuner for another 4 weeks.

Took it out on the road to analyze it a bit more:
* Under vaccum, it's really solid, oscillating around 14.5, basically at any throttle position other than WOT it's good.
* Under WOT, as boost goes up from 0 > 1, the AF quickly drops from 12 > 10, which happens around 2600rpm or so.
* At that point it stays <10, with the stoic ratio bottomed out at 0.75, and I can't get any further readings.

At least it's not running rich all the time, just the few seconds where it's under boost.

Will definitely have a light foot over the next few weeks. I don't think I'll get into road tuning it, requires a bit too much of a time investment to learn what I'm doing properly.