Hello! I haven't been on the forum much these days, but I have a stock block vq35de with an APS twin turbo kit. I think I want to step it up and try to reach ~600rwhp or so in the most cost effective manner.

So, I was wondering if I could get some advice as to what route to take from my current setup as I have been off the forums so long and don't know whats good these days. In my situation, should I part everything and get an LS2 or stick with the VQ and put a built bottom end in? Not sure of the power potential of these turbos, I guess that would be a deciding factor.

Some general info:
Stock block VQ35DE
2 x GT2871R turbos (Ball Bearing, oil/water cooled, IWG)
600cc DW injectors
CJM Stage 1 (i think its the stage 1.. used to be stage 2? its larger hardline + return line w/ single 255 walbro pump)
UTEC ( most definitely need something else)

Thanks for any advice.

 

All in my opinion…but wtf do I know?

build the block - both bottom and top ends…if you are going to happy with 600whp than sleeving the block isnt required…

rebuild the turbos...

Upgrade your fuel system to the stage 2, if not a stage 3…I would go with a twin pump setup…also bump your injectors up to 1000cc.

add a large oil cooler if not two medium-sized oil cooler…consider upgrading your radiator too…you'll be creating a large amount of heat that will need to go somewhere...

I'm assuming you're running a air to air intercooler? If not, find a large capacity -

I don't know what to tell you about your tuning…I'm pretty happy with my Haltech, but I don't know what all is out there...

and I'm assuming you're going to test pipes?

 

Hey, thanks for the reply! Do you feel that stock heads would not be able to reach 600rwhp?

So I have an oil cooler, some earls core maybe 10x8", and I have an aluminum radiator and downpipes (no cat) too. Do you have the Haltech PNP? That is very nice I was looking at that...

 

One small note: don't rebuild the turbos. You can't rebuild Garrett ball-bearing turbos...you just replace the entire center section. In other words, if they're not broke, don't fix 'em. As long as you have been running them water-cooled this whole time, they should be fit as a fiddle.

 

It would save you a ton of time and headache to just buy a VQ longblock from IPP for $4400.

He never stated how many miles are on those twins. If its a serious amount...again save yourself a headache from having to pull those out if you already have your engine out.

 

If you want to stick with the VQ then you need to:

-build the bottom end. You can get in the 500's easily without headwork/cams but if you've got the money might as well do it. breaking 600 is a whole different game.

-bigger injectors and fuel pump
-boost controller
-good dyno tune with Uprev (needs an Upgraded MAF) or Haltech

 

Sounds like you need a hug...

 

A whole lot of these questions are answered on a daily basis as well as a huge thread showing the tons of time, effort and money it takes to do a swap.

Stock heads will flow up to 900hp and stock cams are good until about mid 700 hp. Someone actually just posted 780hp out of stock cams and heads yesterday. It's in the HR race engine thread just below this one at the top of the FI forum.

 

I don't know if the heads will hold 600 - they may they may not…I don't know anything about the HR build…but have them rebuilt and take advantage of swapping out your cams to a set that will optimize your specific setup…

I am looking to get to 600whp on my build (https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...win-build.html) and I run two oil coolers…a 12"x8" and a NASCAR combo radiator / oil cooler…and I'm thinking about adding a second matching 12"x8"…but I'm bat **** crazy…

I agree with TopgunZ, get a IPP built block…that's what I did, great experience great product….

rebuild the turbos…whatever that means, whatever that takes…no sense in destroying a $10k block bc you wanted to save $1000, they will need rebuilt at some point…

and test pipes, gotta have those…

and yes, this has been cover many many many many other times…although I don't mind giving you my opinion...

 

Thank you for taking the time to reply, I know some stuff is posted already on the forum but I was curious of the opinion of my specific setup. So that longblock seems to be a good bang for the buck. i hope my turbos and that long block should be good for 600rwhp, assuming I get the supporting mods.

 

The cheapest setup for a short block you can get will easily hold 600hp. Eagle rods and CP pistons seem to be the cheapest (for cost) and they hold that with no problem. I'm using them on my build at 650hp with no issues and the eagle rods have been used up to 900hp before failure.

The reason I said to look at other threads is the fact that you can gather a lot of info from people's builds that they don't feel like repost over and over.

Going with a prebuilt short block or long block is the way to go. Piecing together all the info when I needed to replace my rod bearings on my last engine was going to cost just as much to buy the parts and take it to a local machinist as it would to buy one assembled from dynosty. They build these engines all the time so I trusted them more than a local machinist.

 

+1, going dynosty even with buying a second core (first was bad) was still cheaper than my local race shop. Think op needs to do his research.

 

How many miles on turbo kit?

 

short block build and supporting fuel and an uprev tune will be fine for 600.

i made 670/700 with a pair of 2871's but they were basically blowing hot air after 5600. and that was on a 4.1L 600 with just a bottom end is very obtainable

 

Turbo kit has.... maybe 15k on it? I installed it in 2007, but don't drive it much.

Nice, 670/700 damn, thanks for the info!