GReddy TT Kit 315 - 320 HP
Had our Z Dynoed on a inground, Clayton VTT eddy current chassis dyno.
Car as no other modifications
Boost read 5lbs, and ran 3 Dyno's @ 314, 312, 311
With the approx 20% drivetrain loss, that would put us pretty much at the 370 or so that the GReddy car ran @ the flywheel
No Torgue #s, or A/F on the chart (something they will have added to their machine for the next runs)
AF digital gauge showed 12.6 and 12.7 at the highest reading
Reading 5lbs, instead of 5.5 others are getting, we will have to check that.
Next runs will be with test pipes with resonators, and then after that, with GReddy Dual Evo.
With just those 2, and getting the correct boost of the 5.5, were hoping to be up in the 340 range.
click on images for larger view



Car as no other modifications
Boost read 5lbs, and ran 3 Dyno's @ 314, 312, 311
With the approx 20% drivetrain loss, that would put us pretty much at the 370 or so that the GReddy car ran @ the flywheel
No Torgue #s, or A/F on the chart (something they will have added to their machine for the next runs)
AF digital gauge showed 12.6 and 12.7 at the highest reading
Reading 5lbs, instead of 5.5 others are getting, we will have to check that.
Next runs will be with test pipes with resonators, and then after that, with GReddy Dual Evo.
With just those 2, and getting the correct boost of the 5.5, were hoping to be up in the 340 range.
click on images for larger view



Originally posted by westpak
Don't the numbers seem low?
I thought most were getting 370 at the wheels?
Don't the numbers seem low?
I thought most were getting 370 at the wheels?
Plus keep in mind that this dyno is done on stock cats. Which on stock z can make up to 15whp. Imagine on a twin turbo z. Which there's def. another 30 whp waiting.
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Originally posted by Jeff@Evolution
Greddy advertise 370 to the flywheel on their site on a stock kit. This number is actually very good for 5.5 psi. Compared to ATi or Vortech which boost at 7psi.
Plus keep in mind that this dyno is done on stock cats. Which on stock z can make up to 15whp. Imagine on a twin turbo z. Which there's def. another 30 whp waiting.
Greddy advertise 370 to the flywheel on their site on a stock kit. This number is actually very good for 5.5 psi. Compared to ATi or Vortech which boost at 7psi.
Plus keep in mind that this dyno is done on stock cats. Which on stock z can make up to 15whp. Imagine on a twin turbo z. Which there's def. another 30 whp waiting.
At the stock psi of 5.5, those numbers are plenty good especially for a 5AT. You should be very happy and your car looks sweet beyond belief.
Does the GReddy kit use timing retard? In the absence of that, an A/F of 12.5 might be slightly higher than desired.
Jeff@Evolution... you mention replacing the cats. Would that further lean out the A/F ratio?
--Steve
Does the GReddy kit use timing retard? In the absence of that, an A/F of 12.5 might be slightly higher than desired.
Jeff@Evolution... you mention replacing the cats. Would that further lean out the A/F ratio?
--Steve
I have to make this clear once and for all. I was present during the dyno on the Z we were working on. With just the Greddy TT kit and exhaust, it made 321HP during three runs. The Z is running pure Greddy setting with no tuning. The dyno we used is a dyno jet with SAE corrected.
I have notice some are getting around the same number as we do and some are getting higher values. Those with higher values seems to be retuned with E-manage and or even with aftermarket cats or testpipe. Remember, when ever you enlarge exhaust components on turbocharged vehicles, boost will rise a few pound than standard rating. That is where extra power come from. Of coarse you must tune it to match with correct Air fuel ratio. The Standard Greddy setting have no timing retard as there is no timing harness that come with the kit. I would assume it would be logical in the future to include that as a must do if you are going higher boost.
If you look at it, stock Z dyno on a dyno jet around 240HP to the wheels. That is a 80Hp gain from stock to the TT kit in 5-6 pound. That's a pretty healthy number consider our car was running pig rich at 10.0 a/f and richer. I wouldn't be surprised to gain a few more HP after retune. If anyone bolts up a TT kit using stock Greddy setting and is getting 350 and above with no retune or cat mods, I would like to know how you did it because that's a 110HP gain from 5-6 pound which is alot. Doesn't matter the kit have twin turbos or triple turbos, boost is boost, numbers don't lie.
I have notice some are getting around the same number as we do and some are getting higher values. Those with higher values seems to be retuned with E-manage and or even with aftermarket cats or testpipe. Remember, when ever you enlarge exhaust components on turbocharged vehicles, boost will rise a few pound than standard rating. That is where extra power come from. Of coarse you must tune it to match with correct Air fuel ratio. The Standard Greddy setting have no timing retard as there is no timing harness that come with the kit. I would assume it would be logical in the future to include that as a must do if you are going higher boost.
If you look at it, stock Z dyno on a dyno jet around 240HP to the wheels. That is a 80Hp gain from stock to the TT kit in 5-6 pound. That's a pretty healthy number consider our car was running pig rich at 10.0 a/f and richer. I wouldn't be surprised to gain a few more HP after retune. If anyone bolts up a TT kit using stock Greddy setting and is getting 350 and above with no retune or cat mods, I would like to know how you did it because that's a 110HP gain from 5-6 pound which is alot. Doesn't matter the kit have twin turbos or triple turbos, boost is boost, numbers don't lie.
Last edited by Steve@Evolution; Jan 28, 2004 at 11:34 AM.
My understanding is that running 10.0 A/F or even richer might prevent detonation but can cause other problems. Am I wrong about that?
My (albeit limited) understanding from what I've read around here is that running 11.5 to 12.0 with timing retard above 5000 rpms is better for all around safety and performance than running really rich w/o retard. Again, I could be wrong.
--Steve
My (albeit limited) understanding from what I've read around here is that running 11.5 to 12.0 with timing retard above 5000 rpms is better for all around safety and performance than running really rich w/o retard. Again, I could be wrong.
--Steve
Originally posted by Evo Hybrid
Running rich prevents detonation. Downsides are fouling plugs and wash out the cylinders ( some cases but kind of rare). I don't think 10.0 A/F is rich enough to wash anything.
Running rich prevents detonation. Downsides are fouling plugs and wash out the cylinders ( some cases but kind of rare). I don't think 10.0 A/F is rich enough to wash anything.
EA
Glad to see your car is running with no problems!!
Congratulations on a (difficult) job well done!
My FCON-V Pro system should hopefully be on the way here soon. Things are looking very good on our HKS Pro Dealer account status. Once its here, I will not sleep until my car is running on it... it will be very exciting to see what the Greddy kit + big injectors and fuel pump + standalone EMS is capable of.
BTW, there is already a 350Z running in the US with a FCON V Pro in it... fly by wire still intact and functional.
-Charles
CJ Motorsports
Congratulations on a (difficult) job well done!
My FCON-V Pro system should hopefully be on the way here soon. Things are looking very good on our HKS Pro Dealer account status. Once its here, I will not sleep until my car is running on it... it will be very exciting to see what the Greddy kit + big injectors and fuel pump + standalone EMS is capable of.
BTW, there is already a 350Z running in the US with a FCON V Pro in it... fly by wire still intact and functional.
-Charles
CJ Motorsports
My Z is still being worked on (new fuel pump install and tuning still to be performed), but the initial number at 6.5 psi was 369 rwhp. This number was achieved by simply increasing boost to 6.5 on the e-01 boost contoller and no tuning outside the preset map. I have the RT high flow cats and Borla TD exhaust though also, which does undoubtedly increase power reading. I would think that a Z that kept the preset boost and had high flows and free breathing exhaust would produce around 340 or so rwhp, so your numbers sound about right for what you're working with right now.
Originally posted by TheSVTKid
The problem is that once you are below 10.0 you don't know what the A/F is. It could be 9.9 or 6.5 or 4.0. So no, 10.0:1 will not wash them down under load, but if it's running and driving like that, it sure can. Most cases it will foul plugs long before damage will occure, but not always. It also depends on condition of the motor. The issue with some of these dyno graphs where the A/F curve just drops off the bottem of the graph, you have to only guess that it's going much lower then that. The longer it's down there, the more chance it's EXTREMLY rich.
EA
The problem is that once you are below 10.0 you don't know what the A/F is. It could be 9.9 or 6.5 or 4.0. So no, 10.0:1 will not wash them down under load, but if it's running and driving like that, it sure can. Most cases it will foul plugs long before damage will occure, but not always. It also depends on condition of the motor. The issue with some of these dyno graphs where the A/F curve just drops off the bottem of the graph, you have to only guess that it's going much lower then that. The longer it's down there, the more chance it's EXTREMLY rich.
EA
I seriously doubt anything bad will this preset map do except of power loss.




