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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

Pre-Supercharger

Old Nov 11, 2013 | 11:21 PM
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Default Pre-Supercharger

i gotta 03 350z,hoping to get 350-450hp goal range.I want to Supercharge it,leaning towards Vortech. Currently just have a Weapon-R intake installed and have Z1 motorsports Plenum spacer waiting to be installed when the Z comes out of storage. Still looking around at an Exhaust(true duel) to add to the parts pile. My question is, is there anything else i should upgrade before looking into getting the supercharger? Safe to supercharge after basic bolt-ons?? not the greatest mechanically but would like to do as much myself as possible, Might buy Headers also But would have shop install(heard they are kind of a pain on the 350z). Any info would be great, Thank-you
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 06:49 AM
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Full Exhaust, plenum spacer, are all ok with a supercharger. The SC kits themselves usually come with your fuel system and tuning solutions.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:08 AM
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Oh for fawk's sake... Please search before starting a thread about something that has been asked a million times over.

Start here...
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...questions.html

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...for-noobs.html




Last edited by RudeG_v2.0; Nov 12, 2013 at 07:32 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:54 AM
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Just take your car to Relentless Autosports. Ask for Scott Bush, he will take care of you. Promise.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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time to search…at a minimum here, at least youre realistic on your power goals … I havent seen a noob mention anything under 450whp in a long time!

Look for a complete supercharger kit, such as vortech or procharger. Procharger isnt really popular around here but i had mine for ~30k miles with minimal issues and I made 375whp. But a popular combination is the vortech kit with osiris tuning...

forget headers too hard to install for minimal gains and consider test pipes or high flow cats and a true dual exhaust. A plenum is relatively inexpensive and will aid in the battle. Also add an oil cooler.

don't let this discourage you but to see ~400whp, you're looking at speind $6-$10k when it's all said & done...
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:32 PM
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i'd go for the headers I did and go for high flows gains every where with min loss in tq down low like tp's unless you more about top end , true duals are good but ever one I know with a sc switched to a single exhaust and got better gains than the duals also if you do decide to go with a single go with test pipes and a xyz pipe with a cat .

also start off with 3.12 pulley not a 3.33 I really regret that lol
like said above get a oil cooler with thermostat sandwhich plate so opens up only when up to temps , ditch the weapon r intake or sell it wont be needed once your boosted
look into some wider tires too and stuff for better traction .
I got a vortech and love it boosted for 45k so far !!! no problems just normal maintence and change my oil every 2.5k with Castrol edge .

tuning the ss box is pretty decent and so is osirus also don't forget a aftermarket fuel pump if you go with a 3.12 pulley
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 08:42 PM
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Perfect, thank-you all very much for the info!
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 35thsickz33
look into some wider tires too and stuff for better traction
definitely don't do this…'traction' which I'm going to cleverly disguise as 'friction' between your tires and the road is a function of normal force(your cars weight) multiplied by the coefficient of friction(rubber on asphalt)…has nothing to do with the amount of rubber is in contact with the aspalt...

F=uN

your traction is exactly the same whether you have 6" wide tires or 12" wide tires (all things being equal)…it's hard to argue with physics...

the reason I say 'definitely' don't do this is because bigger/wider tires will increased your 'moment of inertia' (google it, the best way to think of this is the resistance to movement) so now your engine works that much harder to rotate a bigger/heavier wheel/tire that has absolutely no benefit to your system…not to mention it'll cost you ~$2k (or whatever you pay for wheels & tires)

I say this, and sure-er than ****, I have 20" wheels on my car!!! so I can't throw too many stones! so do whatever you want…but it will slow you down...
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bealljk
definitely don't do this…'traction' which I'm going to cleverly disguise as 'friction' between your tires and the road is a function of normal force(your cars weight) multiplied by the coefficient of friction(rubber on asphalt)…has nothing to do with the amount of rubber is in contact with the aspalt...

F=uN

your traction is exactly the same whether you have 6" wide tires or 12" wide tires (all things being equal)…it's hard to argue with physics...

the reason I say 'definitely' don't do this is because bigger/wider tires will increased your 'moment of inertia' (google it, the best way to think of this is the resistance to movement) so now your engine works that much harder to rotate a bigger/heavier wheel/tire that has absolutely no benefit to your system…not to mention it'll cost you ~$2k (or whatever you pay for wheels & tires)

I say this, and sure-er than ****, I have 20" wheels on my car!!! so I can't throw too many stones! so do whatever you want…but it will slow you down...
Learn something new everyday!
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by bealljk
definitely don't do this…'traction' which I'm going to cleverly disguise as 'friction' between your tires and the road is a function of normal force(your cars weight) multiplied by the coefficient of friction(rubber on asphalt)…has nothing to do with the amount of rubber is in contact with the aspalt...

F=uN

your traction is exactly the same whether you have 6" wide tires or 12" wide tires (all things being equal)…it's hard to argue with physics...

the reason I say 'definitely' don't do this is because bigger/wider tires will increased your 'moment of inertia' (google it, the best way to think of this is the resistance to movement) so now your engine works that much harder to rotate a bigger/heavier wheel/tire that has absolutely no benefit to your system…not to mention it'll cost you ~$2k (or whatever you pay for wheels & tires)

I say this, and sure-er than ****, I have 20" wheels on my car!!! so I can't throw too many stones! so do whatever you want…but it will slow you down...
Contact patch is the rubber on the asphalt, having an 8 inch contact patch is a lot different than having an 11 inch contact patch. One of them will have more friction on the road it is trying to grab below it. That is with equal tread compounds.

Just to add, a real differential should be a must, aftermarket radiator should be on the list. Then an extra $4k in the bank for an extra motor just incase your pops for unknown reasons.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
One of them will have more friction on the road it is trying to grab below it. That is with equal tread compounds.
all things being equal (tire pressure, tread compounds, weather conditions, etc) - how do you figure a 8" wide will have more 'friction' than a 12" wide (or 8 sq inch vs. 12 sq inches)

Originally Posted by terrasmak
aftermarket radiator should be on the list. Then an extra $4k in the bank for an extra motor just incase your pops for unknown reasons.
I don't disagree with the aftermarket radiator but for a 8psi setup on an OEM block…ehhh, debateable…it wouldnt be a step in the wrong direction...

$4k in the bank just incase your motor pops ESPECIALLY if you go with procharger - I had a good tune and but people put too much trust in Prochargers FMU and it does them wrong...

Last edited by bealljk; Nov 13, 2013 at 04:16 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by midz350
Just take your car to Relentless Autosports. Ask for Scott Bush, he will take care of you. Promise.



or you can take your car to GTM, they will take care of you as well.... pinky promise.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
s.
aftermarket radiator should be on the list. Then an extra $4k in the bank for an extra motor just incase your pops for unknown reasons.
I have to disagree with this. I've been boosted on a Vortech for almost 2yrs (15K miles) on the stock radiator and average 190-200F normal driving and boost runs. In traffic it climbs to 220 but the fans kick in bringing it down. I haven't (knock on wood) had any overheating issues. If you plan to track it, then I would recommend it. But for regular street use save your cash until its needed.

Several months ago I up the power on my setup and still have no issue. That reminds me, I should update my build thread.
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 09:40 AM
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Did someone say supercharger? here is mine for sale..

https://my350z.com/forum/turbos-nitr...l#post10266023
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