Dynosty 700+WHP Greddy 18G+ Build
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Vendor - Former Vendor
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From: Louisville, KY
Dynosty 700+WHP Greddy 18G+ Build
This 350Z came to us in need of help... engine was hurt, turbo manifolds were cracked, turbos were in need of repair, lacking engine management, poorly setup fuel system etc. After pulling it apart and inspecting we drew up plans with the owner for a complete rebuild.
The turbos were rebuilt and new billet 53mm wheels were installed before they were hung on new Greddy manifolds. A Dynosty built 3.5L VQ was prepared and the whole package was installed with a Haltech Pro Plug-In standalone. The fuel system was upgraded to a Dynosty Stage 2+ fuel system including a Haltech-controlled twin pump system and ID1300 injectors. After the engine break-in procedure was complete on the dyno, pump gas tuning began. After seeing 500+whp Dyno Dynamics on 93 octane, we were ready to turn it up. Oil was changed yet again, and pump gas was exchanged for VP C16 race gas before setting boost to 30 and dialing in just over 700whp DD.
More details on the blog, http://www.dynosty.com/2013/10/upgra...-makes-704whp/
What a great spooling setup, almost 600wtq at 4000rpm!
The turbos were rebuilt and new billet 53mm wheels were installed before they were hung on new Greddy manifolds. A Dynosty built 3.5L VQ was prepared and the whole package was installed with a Haltech Pro Plug-In standalone. The fuel system was upgraded to a Dynosty Stage 2+ fuel system including a Haltech-controlled twin pump system and ID1300 injectors. After the engine break-in procedure was complete on the dyno, pump gas tuning began. After seeing 500+whp Dyno Dynamics on 93 octane, we were ready to turn it up. Oil was changed yet again, and pump gas was exchanged for VP C16 race gas before setting boost to 30 and dialing in just over 700whp DD.
More details on the blog, http://www.dynosty.com/2013/10/upgra...-makes-704whp/
What a great spooling setup, almost 600wtq at 4000rpm!
perfect for around town driving and keeping the oil pump in 1 piece. 
What size are the gate springs?
30psi looks about all in. Woulda loved to see the exhaust back pressure readings
What size are the gate springs?
30psi looks about all in. Woulda loved to see the exhaust back pressure readings
Thread Starter
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Louisville, KY
No EBP readings, but the dyno, VE table, etc all agreed that we were nearing the upper limits of the turbos.
Great fun around town and plenty of power when you push it all the way down
Great fun around town and plenty of power when you push it all the way down
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More specs on the compressor? # of blades? Blade height? ET? Blade exit angle (if you happened to measure it)?
Been wondering if anyone had stuck billet wheels into a tt kit, but why go so big if you're only doing ~700whp? I don't know who makes your wheels, but the KTS 20g frame wheels are 57+lbs/min each (single 53mm wheels have hit 600+whp on dynojets). That's a lot of spool to leave on the table (despite these spooling fast) if you're not going to use all their capacity. The billet 16gs flow much like the standard MHI 20g, but spool lightning fast.
I do hope you used rebuild kits with the larger thrust bearings and double oiling thrust plates (ala Holset). The billet wheels have a tendency to eat standard thrust plates and bearings for breakfast due to higher compressor loads per revolution. ANYONE rebuilding an MHI turbo should be using the new, larger thrust bearings. There's no reason not to, honestly.
Also, I assume these are extended tip as well? The rotor ratio gets surge happy when the inducer gets above 51mm on a 68mm exducer wheel. ET's help this immensely. I did an analysis of the newer billet wheels over on the MR2 boards last spring when I switched to a billet 7 blade 20g wheel.
For anyone thinking about billet wheels, generally:
- More blades means faster spool with slightly less flow. Wheel weight has less to do with spool up than does fluid work per revolution. Between 2 wheels of the same efficiency, the one that moves more air per revolution will spool slower because it requires more turbine work to spool. Turbines are notoriously inefficient at extracting work from the exhaust stream at low speed (during spool up). If I were building a twin setup for a VQ, I'd use a pair of double 7 blade 16g wheels.
- Extended tips kill surge. MHI wheels (18g and above) tend to surge at pressure ratios above ~1.8. You can see it in the compressor map as a giant "divot" in the surge line. This is exacerbated by altitude, since any given gauge pressure requires a higher pressure ratio (I live in Denver- we think about these things). At altitude, these wheels can surge as low as 14psi of boost. Extended tips remedy this by decreasing the rotor ratio (inducer/exducer):
The 52.xmm 20g wheel is already at the rotor ratio where efficiency starts dropping. Increasing the inducer without increasing the exducer is not a performance benefit. Anything in a drop-in MHI replacement needs extended tips to avoid dropping efficiency.
- The billet wheels typically flow 40-50% more than their equally sized counterparts and do spool faster. You can also get some boost response with a smaller compressor cover. A TD05 compressor cover (used on aftermarket subaru upgrades) builds boost quicker with no change in the surge line: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ps50221614.png
Been wondering if anyone had stuck billet wheels into a tt kit, but why go so big if you're only doing ~700whp? I don't know who makes your wheels, but the KTS 20g frame wheels are 57+lbs/min each (single 53mm wheels have hit 600+whp on dynojets). That's a lot of spool to leave on the table (despite these spooling fast) if you're not going to use all their capacity. The billet 16gs flow much like the standard MHI 20g, but spool lightning fast.
I do hope you used rebuild kits with the larger thrust bearings and double oiling thrust plates (ala Holset). The billet wheels have a tendency to eat standard thrust plates and bearings for breakfast due to higher compressor loads per revolution. ANYONE rebuilding an MHI turbo should be using the new, larger thrust bearings. There's no reason not to, honestly.
Also, I assume these are extended tip as well? The rotor ratio gets surge happy when the inducer gets above 51mm on a 68mm exducer wheel. ET's help this immensely. I did an analysis of the newer billet wheels over on the MR2 boards last spring when I switched to a billet 7 blade 20g wheel.
For anyone thinking about billet wheels, generally:
- More blades means faster spool with slightly less flow. Wheel weight has less to do with spool up than does fluid work per revolution. Between 2 wheels of the same efficiency, the one that moves more air per revolution will spool slower because it requires more turbine work to spool. Turbines are notoriously inefficient at extracting work from the exhaust stream at low speed (during spool up). If I were building a twin setup for a VQ, I'd use a pair of double 7 blade 16g wheels.
- Extended tips kill surge. MHI wheels (18g and above) tend to surge at pressure ratios above ~1.8. You can see it in the compressor map as a giant "divot" in the surge line. This is exacerbated by altitude, since any given gauge pressure requires a higher pressure ratio (I live in Denver- we think about these things). At altitude, these wheels can surge as low as 14psi of boost. Extended tips remedy this by decreasing the rotor ratio (inducer/exducer):
The 52.xmm 20g wheel is already at the rotor ratio where efficiency starts dropping. Increasing the inducer without increasing the exducer is not a performance benefit. Anything in a drop-in MHI replacement needs extended tips to avoid dropping efficiency.
- The billet wheels typically flow 40-50% more than their equally sized counterparts and do spool faster. You can also get some boost response with a smaller compressor cover. A TD05 compressor cover (used on aftermarket subaru upgrades) builds boost quicker with no change in the surge line: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ps50221614.png
