My Vortech Build/Progression Thread
--- Current HP level as of 02-21-2015 ---
(Pump Only)
SAE 421whp-355tq
UNCORRECTED 430whp-362tq
(Meth Injection 70/30 meth-water mix)
SAE 435whp-373tq
UNCORRECTED 445whp-382tq
--- 5/6/2015 ---
Self Tuning with more Meth, ignition and cam timing.
440+whp estimated
---Engine--
GTM 3'' Billet MAF Housing
PMAS Air Flow Sensor
Bosch 720cc Injectors
Walbro 255Lph Fuel Pump
Motordyne 5/16 Spacer Iso Thermal
Kinetix Velocity Manifold (Not Installed Yet)
Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer Crank Pulley
Stillen Oil Cooler
Stillen Oil Pan
Stillen Engine Damper
Red 6 Wire Grounding Kit
Splitfire Ignition Coilpacks
NGK 1 Step Colder Spark Plugs (.035 gapped)
Vortech Sci w/ 3.12 Pulley
Yonaka Intercooler Type 11
CoolingMist Trunkmount Methanol Injection Kit (CM7 Nozzle)
TimRod Vortech SuperCharger Brace
--Drivetrain--
Z1 Clutch/Lightweight 14lb Flywheel
Injected Performance Differential Brace
B&M Short Throw Shift Kit
RJM Adj. Clutch Pedal Assembly
Back to OEM 3.54 FD and Stock VLSD
--Exhaust--
OEM HR Headers (Equal Length)
Motordyne HR Art Pipes
Motordyne XYZ Pipe w/ Resonator
Motordyne TDX Version 1 Exhaust
Header Wrapped all Exhaust Components
--Suspension, Brakes, Wheels--
Stance USA GR+ Coilovers
SPC Front Adj. Camber Control Arms
SPC Rear Camber/Toe Arms
Volk Racing TE37SLs Size 18 Wheels
F 275/35/18 Nitto
R 305/35/18 Toyo R888
Stoptech Slotted Rotors
EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads
--Exterior/Interior--
Seibon OEM Style Carbon Fiber Hood
Nismo V3 Front/Rear Bumper
Sparco Pro 2000 Racing Seat
ZSpeed Aluminum Undershroud w/ V3 Ext.
Nismo V3 Side Skirts
07-08 OEM Projector Headlights
Stripped Interior, Various Weight Reduction Mods (2990 lbs w/o Driver) Need to get reweighed.
---Progression Build Below---
Thanks for taking the time to read my thread. Id like to start off by saying that my Z is one of the best vehicles ive ever had the pleasure of owning. I have grown a lot as a driver and as an enthusiast because its the first vehicle ive owned that ive been able to learn to do everything myself on. I used my Haynes Repair Manual like my bible when it came to everything on my car which helped me save big bucks on over priced services/labor.
I will be Installing the Vortech V3 Sci Supercharger with the 3.12 Pulley on Monday. Fuel system upgrades will be a 255lph Walbro Fuel pump and Rebuilt APS Turbo Kit 500cc Fuel Injectors (Bosch EV6) with connectors. Tuning will be done with Uprev Osiris since I already have it. Also Grabbed the Timrod Radius Strut Rod for good measure from OLDMANZ350 to prevent any belt slippage!
The car is plenty exciting as it sits now, the lighter drive pulleys, flywheel and 4.083 FD with LSD feel great and flow well with all my boltons, But want to have more power as I am a DE non revup. I plan on buying 305 40 18 NITTO NT 555Rs next month to have a taller tire and wider lateral plant in the hopes of obtaining more traction in the rear.
Ill be posting more pics come Monday as I start to install everything. It shouldn't take too long as I am pretty mechanically inclined. And after a few months of reading and research here on the forums and online im happy to be able to finally do this. Thanks for reading!
Soo far these are my mods:





12-05-2014
(Pump Only)
SAE 421whp-355tq
UNCORRECTED 430whp-362tq
(Meth Injection 70/30 meth-water mix)
SAE 435whp-373tq
UNCORRECTED 445whp-382tq
--- 5/6/2015 ---
Self Tuning with more Meth, ignition and cam timing.
440+whp estimated
---Engine--
GTM 3'' Billet MAF Housing
PMAS Air Flow Sensor
Bosch 720cc Injectors
Walbro 255Lph Fuel Pump
Motordyne 5/16 Spacer Iso Thermal
Kinetix Velocity Manifold (Not Installed Yet)
Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer Crank Pulley
Stillen Oil Cooler
Stillen Oil Pan
Stillen Engine Damper
Red 6 Wire Grounding Kit
Splitfire Ignition Coilpacks
NGK 1 Step Colder Spark Plugs (.035 gapped)
Vortech Sci w/ 3.12 Pulley
Yonaka Intercooler Type 11
CoolingMist Trunkmount Methanol Injection Kit (CM7 Nozzle)
TimRod Vortech SuperCharger Brace
--Drivetrain--
Z1 Clutch/Lightweight 14lb Flywheel
Injected Performance Differential Brace
B&M Short Throw Shift Kit
RJM Adj. Clutch Pedal Assembly
Back to OEM 3.54 FD and Stock VLSD
--Exhaust--
OEM HR Headers (Equal Length)
Motordyne HR Art Pipes
Motordyne XYZ Pipe w/ Resonator
Motordyne TDX Version 1 Exhaust
Header Wrapped all Exhaust Components
--Suspension, Brakes, Wheels--
Stance USA GR+ Coilovers
SPC Front Adj. Camber Control Arms
SPC Rear Camber/Toe Arms
Volk Racing TE37SLs Size 18 Wheels
F 275/35/18 Nitto
R 305/35/18 Toyo R888
Stoptech Slotted Rotors
EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads
--Exterior/Interior--
Seibon OEM Style Carbon Fiber Hood
Nismo V3 Front/Rear Bumper
Sparco Pro 2000 Racing Seat
ZSpeed Aluminum Undershroud w/ V3 Ext.
Nismo V3 Side Skirts
07-08 OEM Projector Headlights
Stripped Interior, Various Weight Reduction Mods (2990 lbs w/o Driver) Need to get reweighed.
---Progression Build Below---
Thanks for taking the time to read my thread. Id like to start off by saying that my Z is one of the best vehicles ive ever had the pleasure of owning. I have grown a lot as a driver and as an enthusiast because its the first vehicle ive owned that ive been able to learn to do everything myself on. I used my Haynes Repair Manual like my bible when it came to everything on my car which helped me save big bucks on over priced services/labor.
I will be Installing the Vortech V3 Sci Supercharger with the 3.12 Pulley on Monday. Fuel system upgrades will be a 255lph Walbro Fuel pump and Rebuilt APS Turbo Kit 500cc Fuel Injectors (Bosch EV6) with connectors. Tuning will be done with Uprev Osiris since I already have it. Also Grabbed the Timrod Radius Strut Rod for good measure from OLDMANZ350 to prevent any belt slippage!
The car is plenty exciting as it sits now, the lighter drive pulleys, flywheel and 4.083 FD with LSD feel great and flow well with all my boltons, But want to have more power as I am a DE non revup. I plan on buying 305 40 18 NITTO NT 555Rs next month to have a taller tire and wider lateral plant in the hopes of obtaining more traction in the rear.
Ill be posting more pics come Monday as I start to install everything. It shouldn't take too long as I am pretty mechanically inclined. And after a few months of reading and research here on the forums and online im happy to be able to finally do this. Thanks for reading!
Soo far these are my mods:





12-05-2014
Last edited by NAbuilderZ33; May 16, 2015 at 03:57 PM.
, I've had my Z for over 4 years now when it was bone stock, and I wasn't too active on the forums until recently when I started to research my build and read all the previous builds posted here. Ill post more pics on Monday to update my progress.
If this doesn't work I'm gonna just buy a spare used OEM pumpkin w/ a 3.5 FD from a junkyard and swap em out.
Last edited by NAbuilderZ33; Jul 19, 2014 at 09:57 PM. Reason: misspelled word
Just to update everyone, I'm pretty Much staging everything I need for tomorrow's adventure. Today I also picked up brand new NGK One step colder iridium spark plugs. I'm in the process of removing the hood and front bumper right now. I'm gonna see if I can do the fuel pump tonight since it will only take me about 2hrs tops since its 645pm here in Oahu.

Special thx to my good friend KingBaby (Rod) for letting me use his garage. Many great installs have been done here including my headers, clutch and flywheel and cutting up the interiors for that free weight reduction mod. Lol

Special thx to my good friend KingBaby (Rod) for letting me use his garage. Many great installs have been done here including my headers, clutch and flywheel and cutting up the interiors for that free weight reduction mod. Lol
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Soo since my wife loves me (LOL) I was able to replace my fuel pump with the Walbro 255lph.

I was also able to take the plenum off and get the injectors removed before she got fussy
. Soo this is all I have done tonight. I will be putting in the 500cc injectors first thing tomorrow and continuing the rest of the install.

I was also able to take the plenum off and get the injectors removed before she got fussy
.
Day one is over. Leveled up as a DIYer! Managed to install the 3.12 pulley which was a big pain in the rear. All piping is installed as well as the bypass valve and boost gauge. Tomorrow all that's left to do is the serpentine belt, adding coolant and installing my Timrod radius brace. Night everyone!
U R going to pull the bracket backward toward the stut bar.
The more load that is put on the motor and SC, the harder the load on the bracket. If you drew a Centerline between the crankshaft and the Serp pulley, the load would be on that Centerline being pulled toward the crankshaft. And in doing so, the weakest point or part (being the main bracket) will flex or move forward toward the front of the car.
When installing the radius rod, thread the rod ends in by hand, mount all the brackets at the back side under the "Z" strut bar snug up by hand and determine where you want the pivot point of the rod end ( further to the wheel side will give more clearance to the cog idler pulley) then torque it down, and the rear rod end bolt and nut too. Use blue Loctight.
Mount the front bracket on the cod Idler pulley bolt and make sure that it is not touching the blower, but get it close.
Then mount the front rod end, but leave the nut loose about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. This will allow you to rotate the radius rod body(rotate the body so that it get shorter) so that it takes up the slack in the front nut and bolt. Only tighten the radius rod body by hand. Then torque down the front rod end bolt and nut. This will put a pre-load on the bracket, of about .010"-.015". Make sure you use blue Loctight on the rod end bolts and nuts. Then finally tighten the nuts on the radius rod. This will lock down the radius rod body.
DO NOT use any tools on the radius rod body, you will scratch and ding it up.
This info does Not supersede the Instructions that come with the kit.
Hope this helps
TimRod
The more load that is put on the motor and SC, the harder the load on the bracket. If you drew a Centerline between the crankshaft and the Serp pulley, the load would be on that Centerline being pulled toward the crankshaft. And in doing so, the weakest point or part (being the main bracket) will flex or move forward toward the front of the car.
When installing the radius rod, thread the rod ends in by hand, mount all the brackets at the back side under the "Z" strut bar snug up by hand and determine where you want the pivot point of the rod end ( further to the wheel side will give more clearance to the cog idler pulley) then torque it down, and the rear rod end bolt and nut too. Use blue Loctight.
Mount the front bracket on the cod Idler pulley bolt and make sure that it is not touching the blower, but get it close.
Then mount the front rod end, but leave the nut loose about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. This will allow you to rotate the radius rod body(rotate the body so that it get shorter) so that it takes up the slack in the front nut and bolt. Only tighten the radius rod body by hand. Then torque down the front rod end bolt and nut. This will put a pre-load on the bracket, of about .010"-.015". Make sure you use blue Loctight on the rod end bolts and nuts. Then finally tighten the nuts on the radius rod. This will lock down the radius rod body.
DO NOT use any tools on the radius rod body, you will scratch and ding it up.
This info does Not supersede the Instructions that come with the kit.
Hope this helps
TimRod
Last edited by OldManZ350; Jul 22, 2014 at 09:23 AM.
Hay Andre,
I like your friends Hood, it look sharp. did he cut the luvors himself? Or did he Buy the like it is. Coulds you take a detail shot of the luvors?
Thanks,
TimRod
I like your friends Hood, it look sharp. did he cut the luvors himself? Or did he Buy the like it is. Coulds you take a detail shot of the luvors?
Thanks,
TimRod
Just to update everyone, I'm pretty Much staging everything I need for tomorrow's adventure. Today I also picked up brand new NGK One step colder iridium spark plugs. I'm in the process of removing the hood and front bumper right now. I'm gonna see if I can do the fuel pump tonight since it will only take me about 2hrs tops since its 645pm here in Oahu.

Special thx to my good friend KingBaby (Rod) for letting me use his garage. Many great installs have been done here including my headers, clutch and flywheel and cutting up the interiors for that free weight reduction mod. Lol


Special thx to my good friend KingBaby (Rod) for letting me use his garage. Many great installs have been done here including my headers, clutch and flywheel and cutting up the interiors for that free weight reduction mod. Lol










