Thank you and will do, sir! They are great tires!


Ill be in Ft. Hood which is around the Killeen area. Already looking around for local tracks both circuit and drag.

 

Dang, about 3 hours South East. LOL, I've already started looking for local tracks as well, Looks like I have a local 1/8th Drag Strip but will have to go to Dallas for Auto X.

 

Look Here!

http://www.staginglight.com/links/trackfinder.html

 

Kooool, Texas, you will be right next door. I'm in Bossier City just outside the gate of Barksdale AFB. I anticipate getting a short block within the next two months to add to my turbo now in storage.

 

They wear surprisingly well given what they are.

But does depend on track use, burnouts and temp ranges. Definitely not a tire you want to see cold temperature (even below 40 can be seriously bad). All my car buddies run them on their toys, and they're just an awesome tire. You could get probably 7,000 miles if you're reasonable on them, dramatically less if you're not. I've heard of people getting 10,000 which is pretty incredible considering they heat cycle basically every time you drive them. Fair warning though, once you try r888's, you never go back. The sidewall stiffness has amazing road feel, and the grip (even on the street) is awesome.

Definitely not the best daily shoe, but to be honest, neither is a FI 350z.


Na builder, for future reference, run the stock gap on the Iridiums. You pay a lot of money for those plugs, and they're designed to run the stock (out of the box) gap. And yes increasing gap does increase the chance of spark blow out. But again, the iridium NGK's are designed to run this gap. I asked Hal (@Dynosty) this specifically and he said not to touch them. Manufacturer says the same thing. Even the guys down at O'Rielly's know you aren't supposed to touch most (if not all) NGK plugs.

 

Thanks for your explanation on the spark plugs, Resmarted. I appreciate it.

 

Thanks for the link, Sir.

 

Injected Performance Differential Brace came in. Installed in 20 min. Simple and effective mod.

 

Does it eliminate wheel hop?

 

The rear definitely feels alot more solid. Its a weird feeling cause I'm used to how loose the rear feels under wot and hard turning before but it feels great now. I'm sure with solid diff bushings the stiffness will be amplified.

Haven't really gotten on it to notice any wheelhop yet but I'm sure the diff brace helps to prevent it.

 

you will still wheel hop with radial tires on a 6mt with the brace. i have the brace and broke axles not getting out of it soon enough.

wheel hop has the diff moving as a small aspect but tires and overall suspension design play a much larger role.

 

Soo, I've been contemplating stepping up a pulley size from the 3.12 to the 2.87 for more Power. Ive come to the conclusion that although the 2.87 will give me even more power, the safer alternative to spin the blower faster would be an upgraded Crank pulley. I just bought a Fluidampr Street Crank Pulley with an outer diameter of 6.125 inches compared to the stock crank that is 5.75 inches. Upon using the calculater on the Vortech Site, I will be spinning the blower @ 46644 max with the Fluiddampr and 3.12 from the 43788 I am spinning now with my Stillen standard lightweight crank pulley and same pulley. Plus I will have the added benefit of having more safety due to the harmonic balancing the Fluidampr will produce at high rpm where I need it the most. It is 10.3 lbs, but I dont think the weight will be an issue when in boost.

 

Are you a Rev-up or Standard De?

 

03 Non Rev

 

You should get rid of the light weight pulley ASAP.

I rev my Blower to 62,355rpm

I think you used the wrong calculator, your numbers are off.

I'm assuming you have a stock rev limiter? 6600rpm

I've shown different configurations below.

 

You would gain power by raising your rev limiter to 7100rpm. And even more important you would gain tons of Drivability, makig it much easyer to stay off the rev limiter.

 

You are absolutely right i was using the 2nd calculator (V-2-V3 Calc). Thank you sir. The reason i dont rev to 7100 is because i was advised that I had to upgrade my oil pump. So i kept the 6600 redline due to this.

Yea, Ive been meaning to get the Stillen Light Crank removed but I sold my OEM one and was saving and got the Fluidampr, which is on its way now.

 

I've had no problem for over 40,000 miles.

It's not the oil pump.

It's the Camshafts Valve Springs. You could get some Valve Float if it revs beyond 7200.

Actualy it was technosquare that did testing on the De motor way back in 03-04, and found that raising the Rev limiter 500rpm and increasing the ignition timing on the standard DE would increase performance substantially.

 

Thank you for this information, Tim. I really appreciate it. I will go for it then. My tune is really safe as it is with the meth injection as it is now, because i dont have any detonation or knock at all. Im sure I will be ok with the increased rev limit. Ill keep everyone posted when I retune and display my results with the full dynosheet.

 

So you went from the worst pulleys to a pulley people use to rev to 8k+ and on huge HP builds.

Must be made of money lol