Hi all, So I bought a used 18g greddy kit off of one of the members here for my ZR. I have just about everything I need and the car ripped apart and ready to put back together with the goodies however when purchasing this kit I had bought a fuel return kit from the seller initially prior to purchase the kit. Unfortunately the seller sent me all of the oil feed fittings (that tap into the block at the oil pressure switch and add outlets for the greddy feed lines) with the fuel kit and when i went over parts for the fuel kit I had no idea what they were, I asked the seller and he didn't know either. So assuming it was a piece of random brass fittings irrelevant to the fuel kit and since I hadnt purchased the turbo kit, I like the dumbass I am, threw all those fittings in the trash since I thought theyd make a ugly paperweight.


Long story short does anyone know where I can go get those brass fittings? I'd rather not go through the waiting game with greddy. I checked menards and nothing was small enough. Also I am in need of a banjo fitting for one of the turbo feed lines, for some reason one of the lines didnt have one. And also I need those copper washers for the banjo fittings as well. If anyone can guide me as to where to get them it would be greatly appreciated, summer is starting and my roadster is in pieces

 

is this what you need? pm me

 

^start a build thread...

I also have a bunch of AN-3 hardware if Esco doesnt...


post #7:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...uds-bolts.html

 

Lol thank you, I had already read through all those posts..... I'm a master auto/acura technician by trade and have already looked over everything with a fine tooth comb (I will be reusing and shaving the stock studs btw, greedy studs look nice but I'm not about to put a dissimilar metal in there and have the studs seize in the head). The kit is in great condition seeing as it came off a show car and allegedly has less than 1000 miles on it, I'm Inclined to believe that because the seller was very professional and provided paperwork to back that up. Turbos have no irregular shaft play, and if I didn't know any better I'd say the wastgates, bov, injectors, and all the lines were all new because of their condition. My only concern is the manifold that had a cracked repaired and how it's going to hold up with test pipes. I spoke to another member and he installed flex pipes to his tp's and leveled the manifolds and has no problem dallying and tracking his z. I have a hks true dual and they already have flex pipes on each side about 6 inches fromy the flange that connects to the tp's so I should be okay (may fab up some brackets and weld them to tp's that bolt up to stock cat brace just in case)however I will be leveling those manifolds.

Thanks in advance for the help, I will start a build thread when I am done... I've been taking plenty of pics of my progress. Think of a zr with a track setup suspension, rpf1's with 285 tires in the back 265 front, and a Nismo v2 body with a charge speed rear. I'm only going for the DE number of 420 horse for now, I may pull the motor or buy and build one on the side in 2 years but I think 420 wheel is plenty of power for track and street. Mostly street because I don't have a cage.....yet

 

Sucks to hear about the manifold. Just make sure its not touching the frame or it will crack again.

 

You really think the stock studs/ greddy studs are made of aluminum?

Obviously both studs are made of steel and are going into an aluminum head....

 

Stainless steel tends to gall with high temps, by dissimilar metals I meant BARE metals that don't work well with one another. No I dont think the stock studs are made of aluminum. The stock studs are steel but are treated with something to give them that green tint, that treatment prevents them from seizing. Honestly I have no idea what they're treated with but I know when I pulled them at 60k miles there was no corrosion and they came right out. Also the greddy studs have about half the amount of threads that thread into the head compared to the stock studs. I opted to shave the inverted torx head off the stock studs and just reuse those along with trimming the stock nuts shoulder flange to fit the greddy manifolds. The stock nuts are made with a lock at the top, and treated the same as the studs. Basically my setup will be as follows: Stock studs with copper washer first to make contact with manifold(to absorb the unevenness of the shitty cast greddy manifold instead of trying to shave the mounting surface of the nut flat), then a star style lock washer, then the stock nuts all torqued in sequence to 22ft lbs.

The reason I'm getting so **** about this is in hopes that the manifolds dont crack because of uneven torque and so none of the fasteners back out. I don't plan on pulling this apart for a while.