Just built bottom end ok for 450rwhp?
#1
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Just built bottom end ok for 450rwhp?
Hey guys I need a little help on what you all think may be the best option to go with. I have searched the forums for this and have recieved many different inputs but I have my long block out the car ready to be fixed but I am torn on what I should have done.
Here is my setup:
2006 350z 23,000 miles on motor.
APS twin turbo kit running around 6-8 psi.
Stock block but I think I blew a head gasket, car will run fine for 10-15 minutes then start to volcano out of the reservior tank. Replaced the coolant and the thermostat and still have the same issue.
I have pulled the motor out and was planning to:
A- Buy a built bottom end, get the heads worked, new 3 layer gaskets, and arp head studs.
or
B- Buy an already built long block
I would of course save money on just doing the bottom end but will I have an issue running 450-500 rwhp if I up the boost? or should I just go ahead and do a long block?
Anyone running long blocks or bottom ends from like IPP or GTM? Just want to know the quality and if they are good for the price.
Let me know some input so I can figure out what would be best for me and to make sure I can stay safe at those gains.
thanks
Here is my setup:
2006 350z 23,000 miles on motor.
APS twin turbo kit running around 6-8 psi.
Stock block but I think I blew a head gasket, car will run fine for 10-15 minutes then start to volcano out of the reservior tank. Replaced the coolant and the thermostat and still have the same issue.
I have pulled the motor out and was planning to:
A- Buy a built bottom end, get the heads worked, new 3 layer gaskets, and arp head studs.
or
B- Buy an already built long block
I would of course save money on just doing the bottom end but will I have an issue running 450-500 rwhp if I up the boost? or should I just go ahead and do a long block?
Anyone running long blocks or bottom ends from like IPP or GTM? Just want to know the quality and if they are good for the price.
Let me know some input so I can figure out what would be best for me and to make sure I can stay safe at those gains.
thanks
#2
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For that power level you will be fine with a built bottom end. The Rods are the weakest point. The stock VQ heads flow pretty decently believe it or not.
If I were to do the VQ platform over again- Id do short block, head studs/gasket and enjoy the 500hp. 500rwhp is a sweet spot for the Z ( street )
Just be sure to get a really good tune!
If I were to do the VQ platform over again- Id do short block, head studs/gasket and enjoy the 500hp. 500rwhp is a sweet spot for the Z ( street )
Just be sure to get a really good tune!
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Jacob350z (07-30-2015)
#3
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Hey guys I need a little help on what you all think may be the best option to go with. I have searched the forums for this and have recieved many different inputs but I have my long block out the car ready to be fixed but I am torn on what I should have done.
Here is my setup:
2006 350z 23,000 miles on motor.
APS twin turbo kit running around 6-8 psi.
Stock block but I think I blew a head gasket, car will run fine for 10-15 minutes then start to volcano out of the reservior tank. Replaced the coolant and the thermostat and still have the same issue.
I have pulled the motor out and was planning to:
A- Buy a built bottom end, get the heads worked, new 3 layer gaskets, and arp head studs.
or
B- Buy an already built long block
I would of course save money on just doing the bottom end but will I have an issue running 450-500 rwhp if I up the boost? or should I just go ahead and do a long block?
Anyone running long blocks or bottom ends from like IPP or GTM? Just want to know the quality and if they are good for the price.
Let me know some input so I can figure out what would be best for me and to make sure I can stay safe at those gains.
thanks
Here is my setup:
2006 350z 23,000 miles on motor.
APS twin turbo kit running around 6-8 psi.
Stock block but I think I blew a head gasket, car will run fine for 10-15 minutes then start to volcano out of the reservior tank. Replaced the coolant and the thermostat and still have the same issue.
I have pulled the motor out and was planning to:
A- Buy a built bottom end, get the heads worked, new 3 layer gaskets, and arp head studs.
or
B- Buy an already built long block
I would of course save money on just doing the bottom end but will I have an issue running 450-500 rwhp if I up the boost? or should I just go ahead and do a long block?
Anyone running long blocks or bottom ends from like IPP or GTM? Just want to know the quality and if they are good for the price.
Let me know some input so I can figure out what would be best for me and to make sure I can stay safe at those gains.
thanks
#5
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If you drive the car the needle never pegs out at the top to indicate the engine temp overheats but it does get higher then normal and then once you turn the car off all hell breaks loose.
I planned on doing the bottom end and heads anyway thats why I pulled the long block but I am hoping this solves the problem with the overheating.
Do you think it could be something different?
#6
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if a short block is all I need then that will probably be what i go with.
#7
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No other symptoms, bled the system 3 times and even had car at incline while doing the coolant. Replaced the termostat and after 15 minutes the coolant would erupt out of the reservoir tank and you could here it boiling over inside.
If you drive the car the needle never pegs out at the top to indicate the engine temp overheats but it does get higher then normal and then once you turn the car off all hell breaks loose.
I planned on doing the bottom end and heads anyway thats why I pulled the long block but I am hoping this solves the problem with the overheating.
Do you think it could be something different?
If you drive the car the needle never pegs out at the top to indicate the engine temp overheats but it does get higher then normal and then once you turn the car off all hell breaks loose.
I planned on doing the bottom end and heads anyway thats why I pulled the long block but I am hoping this solves the problem with the overheating.
Do you think it could be something different?
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#8
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I honestly think it has to be the head gasket because almost everything has been looked at. I run a Nissan service and parts department so I honestly don't think my guys would have burped the system incorrect or installed the thermostat wrong. I guess I'll find out soon but I was planning on doing work to the motor anyway.
I didn't notice much with the oil when it was drained.
#9
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Headgaskets ... combustion is leaking into the coolant passages and sitting behind your thermostat and not allowing the bimetallic filament to open and close.
look for white creamy oil under the oil cap
look for white creamy oil under the oil cap
Last edited by bealljk; 08-01-2015 at 09:08 PM.
#11
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That smell is Anti-Freeze......
It actually had a sweet smell coming from the exhaust. I was wondering why it smelled that way.
I honestly think it has to be the head gasket because almost everything has been looked at. I run a Nissan service and parts department so I honestly don't think my guys would have burped the system incorrect or installed the thermostat wrong. I guess I'll find out soon but I was planning on doing work to the motor anyway.
I didn't notice much with the oil when it was drained.
I honestly think it has to be the head gasket because almost everything has been looked at. I run a Nissan service and parts department so I honestly don't think my guys would have burped the system incorrect or installed the thermostat wrong. I guess I'll find out soon but I was planning on doing work to the motor anyway.
I didn't notice much with the oil when it was drained.
#18
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the best headgaskets in the world won't save your heads from a bad tune...
#19
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Are you actually losing coolant?
He is gona build it anyway but I would like to find the root of problem so you have worry free build
How do you test coolant for combustion gases?
#20
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Does he have any of those symptoms?? He said no milky oil or anything beside sweet smell..
Are you actually losing coolant?
He is gona build it anyway but I would like to find the root of problem so you have worry free build
How do you test coolant for combustion gases?
Are you actually losing coolant?
He is gona build it anyway but I would like to find the root of problem so you have worry free build
How do you test coolant for combustion gases?
I was losing coolant and I am almost positive I have a blown head gasket, but again motor was coming out anyway for a small build I just wanted to see what would be a better option for 500rwhp.
and bealljk I will be getting another tune once the motor and all is put back in, so thats not a worry.