35reilly

Hey guys, looking for a good shop I can trust. I just pulled my motor and currently I have a 18g tt kit . I'm looking for a trust worthy shop that I can have upgrade my turbos. I'm looking to up mill and rebuild to make them 20gs. Any help I would reply appreciate it very much. Thank you

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

are you going to have any engine work done?

what are your thoughts on going to the 20g configuration?

Is this the kit from VictorD that was listed here?

35reilly

Thanks for replying. Motor is fully built. Pulled motor to fix the cracked greddy header so figured while I had it out and apart I would have them rebuilt and upgraded to the 20g I originally wanted. I know I will experience a little lag and I'm ok with that. Lookin for a little more room for power.

Pengu

iTrader: (9)

Hmmm... how close are you to Hills Garage in Maryland? Fantastic shop and worth the drive. Probably a short drive for you.

35reilly

That's the shop I plan on having tune it again soon as I'm done. Here nothing but good things bout them. Not that far neither. Still debating getting rid of up rev and going haltech. See how funds r after I get what i need done

Pengu

iTrader: (9)

They're an amazing shop and one of the most honest ones I've been too. They did some work to my last Z along with a tune. Plan on going to them once I get a kit in the Spring.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

if you are looking to revise your ECU look into the Link G4 Plus ... If I wasnt nuts deep in haltech, I would have gone the Link G4 in an instant -

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

It is always nice to have another PNP option for our platform and the purported automatic transmission support is intriguing. That said, what I have seen on youtube and on their website makes the software seem very immature compared to the Haltech. The hardware and software are also only part of the solution - the other part is the support and development effort to keep fixing/improving. Haltech has Hal at Dynosty. ProEFI has Jason. Not sure if there is anyone driving development for the Link ECUs for 350z/G35...

kilogram

iTrader: (1)

Don't bother upgrading to 20g compressors. They are ancient tech and they're a horrible match to half of a 3.5L. They also surge like crazy above 18psi at sea level, 14psi at elevation.

There are billet 18g wheels that will outflow them available now. I've run the KTS 7 blade ET 20g wheel and it spools faster and outflows the standard 20g by about 25%. The smaller wheels perform about the same. It's not even worth bothering with the old cast wheels anymore now that billet wheels are available and cheap.

There are also superlight turbine wheels as well, and all of these parts drop directly into a standard MHI turbo cartridge and housings. MHI turbos (Greddy are all Mitsubishi Heavy Industries turbo cartridges) are component balanced (each part is balanced individually), so as long as the turbine hasn't touched the housings you can reassemble it in any orientation and it will retain balance. Those of us who have worked on MHI turbos have been rebuilding them this way for about a decade.

It's also worth upgrading the thrust bearing hardware with the larger bearing and double hole oiling plate. Kamak developed this kit about 7 years ago to deal with higher thrust loads from the billet wheels, and it's basically a copy of what Holset uses in their oiling system. It's a 360° bearing (all TD05/6 frame use a 360° bearing, FWIW) with two oiling holes and a larger diameter bearing surface. I've had turbos survive horrible on-throttle surge with this bearing with zero damage- surge that would have killed a standard MHI bearing (secondary intake butterflies got stuck closed causing the surge).

There are plenty of shops that can rebuild turbos (GpopShop, TurboLab, or any DSM shop can handle MHI turbos), or if you're even remotely mechanically inclined and have a decent snap ring pliers, you can do it yourself. It's really not difficult at all, just keep everything clean.

And make sure you're using a suitable oil feed for your turbos. The pressure sensor is unfiltered oil. MHI turbos are nearly indestructible if you feed them clean oil at the correct pressures.

35reilly

Damn. Thanks man so I got the motor out and turbos off. I was going to send to boost lab in FL. But I'm open to suggestions. You seem to know your ****. Thanks. So lmk get this straight don't upgrade to the 20 g wheels? I really have no idea about all you just talked about. But I appreciate the feedback and info. What would you suggest I do? Either way I'm getting the. Rebuilt just for the piece of mine. I am trying to get more out of them if possible. What exactly would u recommend? If you don't mind making it a little simpler. Lol thanks bud for info

kilogram

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, I would give one of the turbo shops a call. Seems like rebuilding them might be on the far edge of your skillset, and if that's the case it's best to let someone with experience do it (especially because of how fracking hard they are to remove with the engine in place).

I would definitely not bother with the 20g wheels. Not only are they crap, but you'll need a new compressor cover or to have the originals machined to fit the larger inducer. Assuming your turbines are ok, I'd just drop the billet 18g wheels in with the upgraded thrust rebuild kit and call it done. Kinugawa sells the wheels for about $150, rebuild kits for about $80. Good stuff, been using it for about 7 years with no problems.

35reilly

I wasn't planning on rebuilding myself. Motor is out and turbos are off. I been in contact with boost lab. Ryan there did mention about the upgraded 18g wheel and did say they do flow very well. What I was told is that I would see the difference in the midrange. I'm just a little confused as to why you would say the 20g upgrade is not worth it. I'm planning on being 650rwhp or so. And the 18g is maxed out at 700 no? If that's true I mean that's like really walking a fine line no? Listen I'm open minded to any info I can take in. If you can explain a little better I would appreciate it. Doing my best to learn and make the right decision on this. Thanks

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

You will make better use of the 18g wheel. 650 whp on an 18g wheel can feel and be faster than 750 whp on a 20g wheel. It's all about power under the curve. Unless you planning on setting your rpm limit to 8500, get the 18g wheel.


kg> interesting stuff on the new billet wheels. thx for sharing!

35reilly

My rev limiter is already at 8500. Lol. What would that have to do with 18 or 20g set up. Sry to sound so uneducated with the whole thing. Just trying to Learn

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

what oil pump are you running or plan to run? I can only assume you are running the rev-up...which is advertised to be good up to 7k rpm...I don't know that I'd go higher than that seeing that your oil is the life-blood of your engine and your turbos...

SoCal_VQ

Greddy and their trash manifolds smh seems like every Greddy tt kit has this problem.

35reilly

Yeah man rev up oil pump. I have the motor out now. My plans are to go over motor and address anything I see. Also to upgrade anything I should just as a piece of mind just to make it as solid as possible

35reilly

Well I broke down last night and bought new headers. Smh. 700 bucks later I will now have a extra set Lol

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

The different wheels will make different power at different rpms. A 20g wheel will be shifted to the right vs the 18g.

Here is a tutorial for you. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...compressor_map

SoCal_VQ

Wouldn't have those problems with a supercharger!