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Old Jan 7, 2016 | 02:13 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
Just one gallo 24 rod. Specifically cylinder 7 which is the weak park of our engines. The rest gallo 12's can be used for weight reduction at a reduced compression
Not to take this too far OT, but I agree with honeybadgerRy on this one. There's plenty of noobs on here who can't distinguish sarcasm like this for real advice. Some are so inexperienced, they get confused by what are serious comments and what is pure, unadulterated BS.
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Old Jan 7, 2016 | 02:58 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by dkmura
Not to take this too far OT, but I agree with honeybadgerRy on this one. There's plenty of noobs on here who can't distinguish sarcasm like this for real advice. Some are so inexperienced, they get confused by what are serious comments and what is pure, unadulterated BS.

2 things. One, if theyre as inexperienced enough to try an actually buys a gallod rod, i dont think they should be doing anything that involves them getting new rods.

2nd, i understand that we all started this hobby pretty clueless, and if a noob was actually thinking of getting a gallod rods, im sure a google search will turn up that no such thing exists.
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Old Jan 7, 2016 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dkmura
All these replies ASSUME plenty of things, but fails to be realistic in total. First, OP wants to run 500 HP "safely", and that is more of a pipe dream with high compression and FI. Particularly because he's trying to do it in stages. Tuning in that range will take multiple pulls from an expert tuner and using nothing but specialized race fuel. While it may be possible to do this (or use E85), this calls upon a high degree of funding, knowledge and expertise on the part of the owner. Based upon what's been posted here, those three conditions seem very doubtful.

Having built high compression race engines for Nissan GT cars, I will only say that it's been my experience that building towards a particular application leads to a better outcome. I stand by my suggestion that he'd be better off (and "safer") building his VQ for FI or high compression, but not both. He'll spend less, have fewer headaches and have more durability in the real world.
dkmura knows what hes talking about.
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Old Jan 7, 2016 | 05:47 PM
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So from my understanding is to go with Eagle rods and the Wiseco piston set at 8.8:1 compression with L19 head studs and main studs and hks headgaskets, then tune and then go FI 3 months later?
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Old Jan 7, 2016 | 06:44 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Kenneths350z
So from my understanding is to go with Eagle rods and the Wiseco piston set at 8.8:1 compression with L19 head studs and main studs and hks headgaskets, then tune and then go FI 3 months later?
for 500whp.

yeah wiseco/eagle for 500whp is a good combo at 8:8:1.

you can go with regular nissan oem headgaskets and you dont need L19 arp hardware. just get the standard ARP head bolts for the heads and use the nissan OEM main stud bolts for the crankshaft for 500whp.

generally L19 arp bolts is used for serious power.....like 800hp+ stupid fast power.....
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Old Jan 7, 2016 | 07:08 PM
  #26  
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Also, HKS head gaskets are good - but, I've been working with a vintage racecar team and from their perspective it's cometic of bust.
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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 05:43 AM
  #27  
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http://www.importpartspro.com/st1vqloblni3.html
I would ask them about the gallo 12 or 24 rods that someone mentioned in a forum post before ordering the eagles.
Here's their contact info

Import Parts Pro, LLC
19505 Wied Rd
Suite E
Spring, Texas 77388
Tel: 281-288-0700
Fax: 281-288-0836
Email: kyle@importpartspro.com
AIM: KyleatIPP
Yahoo: KyleatIPP


/end thread

Last edited by iideadeyeii; Jan 8, 2016 at 05:49 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 07:51 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by QuintonC
Also, HKS head gaskets are good - but, I've been working with a vintage racecar team and from their perspective it's cometic of bust.
for vintage cars cometic might be the best, but for this particular application I doubt anyone/shop that has built these cars would recommend a cometic over hks.

I have done a couple engines and talked to a lot of shops over my 10-12 yrs with this car. HKS is the gasket of choice
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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 10:31 AM
  #29  
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If I were to go do a 200 or 150 shot (direct port of course) instead of going FI, would I be safe?
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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 10:51 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Justin100
for 500whp.

yeah wiseco/eagle for 500whp is a good combo at 8:8:1.

you can go with regular nissan oem headgaskets and you dont need L19 arp hardware. just get the standard ARP head bolts for the heads and use the nissan OEM main stud bolts for the crankshaft for 500whp.

generally L19 arp bolts is used for serious power.....like 800hp+ stupid fast power.....
No, no, no. L19's no matter what.
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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 11:21 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Kenneths350z
Because I would end up going FI after a couple months
Originally Posted by Kenneths350z
If I were to go do a 200 or 150 shot (direct port of course) instead of going FI, would I be safe?
Im going FI...no now wait..now I'm going nitrous...

You're going neither. Stop wasting forum bandwidth
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 01:12 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Kenneths350z
So from my understanding is to go with Eagle rods and the Wiseco piston set at 8.8:1 compression with L19 head studs and main studs and hks headgaskets, then tune and then go FI 3 months later?
Just buy my car instead
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