Of course that 11:1 is going to drop to about 10:5 after the engine heats up which is still high for anything running boost.

I finished building my engine a while back, and am working out the gremlins.

Specs:
VQ35DE.
ARP main cap studs [highest load rated, but I can't remember the part number].
ARP head studs.
Cometic head gaskets.

Manly forged H beam rods.
Wiesco forged 11:1 pistons.
Everything balanced.

Ported heads.
Wolf S2 cams, matching springs.
Full length headers, no cats, 3" exhaust.

I kinda thinking since this engine most likely won't be making any hp to brag about, it might be good to fab up a turbo running around 6 psi boost with a water injection kit.

I have read where others running their Ford engines with just such compression ratio on the street/daily driver with no issues, with a good tune, and resisting temptation to turn up the boost.

But, different engines react different ways so this is why I figured I would ask here [did a search, but didn't find anything. I would just run E85, but alas there are no pumping stations within 100 miles of me.

 

if you ran e85 you shouldn't have too much issue. I would have concern with the headgaskets and if you only used standard arp studs

 

The head studs are L19, ARP.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine...ds-p-2411.html

However, I think the standard ARP head studs would have been fine. I use the standard ARP head studs in my twin turbo 363 Ford setup, at 20psi, with no issues.

I might just leave it NA for now, and see how she drives. However, the first mini van that passes me will probably have me thinking turbo again.

How well does the Uprev work with forced induction?

 

uprev and maf tuning for FI....no thanks.

 

l19 is definitely the way to go. the VQ is not a ford engine... the open deck doesn't take to boost as easily and sealing the heads to the block is much more challenging.

curious why cometic and not cosworth or HKS stopper headgaskets. I've been around for a while and the cometic are definitely not the go to headgaskets for this engine

 

Figure out what your dynamic compression is, static compression doesnt mean beans

 

I've used Cometic head gaskets on every FI engine I have built so far, and they have worked fine.

However, I do get the mating surfaces, resurfaced to Cometics recommendations, then I spray Hylomar on both sides of the gaskets.

Don't misunderstand me. I'm not saying that you're wrong, only that I haven't had any problems with using Cometic head gaskets.

I currently have five vehicles with FI from centrifugals to turbos with the strongest engine making over 1100 hp.

 

I guess over the years I have come to find that the VQ is unique; in that what works for other builds doesn't necessarily translate over

 

Well, I guess I'd better head out, tear my engine down, and get those Cometic gaskets out asap. Do you think its too late for me to get my money back?

 

Cometic gaskets failed in a few early VQ builds but I believe they changed their design (not 100% certain on this). If you've already got it clamped down with L19s, I would give it a shot and hope for the best.

 

I plan to, I was just being sarcastic at one of the replies. If they were just Autozone special head gaskets, AND I was having problems with them I would pull them.

However, the Cometic gaskets are doing fine. There are failures of Cometic gaskets on just about all makes of engines [I researched them a few years ago, before buying a set].

The problem turned out to be that people weren't following the instructions as far as re-serfacing the decks [Cometics like a mirror finish on the deck surfaces].

Like I mentioned before I spray Hylomar on any MLS gaskets before installing them as an extra precaution. Also, I've read where just about every gasket company out there has had failures. Sometimes its the product, some times its the mechanic.

After spending the money I have spent on the gaskets, and the fact that they aren't having any issues as of now, I would be foolish to go to the trouble of changing them.

 

just playing devils advocate here, but N/A any gasket will be fine. adding boost will be the test. Good luck

 

IF, I can get the damned thing out of limp mode............arrrrgh.

Tell me, if I do buy an Uprev tuner, can I bypass limp mode? I understand that limp mode is a safety measure, but we all know that you can drive the car indefinitely with some issues these newer cars have [like the other two 02 sensors way back on the exhaust that aren't hooked up].

I can see where limp mode might help someone who isn't a mechanic keep from damaging their vehicle, but I think in some cases limp mode is just a way to keep the car dealers service mechanics in business.

Also, there are NO emissions testing where I live [thank God], so that won't be a problem.

Oh, and thanks guys for all of the suggestions, and help.

 

You cannot disable limp mode but you can disable some of the CELs (some that might trigger a limp mode I think). I would check with Jared over at UpRev. I never had trouble with limp mode when I was running piggyback, but I left the stock widebands in for that reason (even though I was using Haltech widebands).

 

Now granted I am in a 370z, but, we all run our oem 11:1 cr and are putting down some stupid numbers. There are several guys over 600whp and one guy over 700 on the stock block with up to 16psi.

I rebuilt my block with forged internals and still kept the 11:1 cr. This helps in so many ways. First off it will always have low end grunt. Second it will get your turbo spooling much sooner. Third, if you ever want to return your car to NA it will still have some zip. Ever driven a car with 8.5:1 cr in na form?