Yessir, the one with the blue cog pattern and way stiffer? Already Installed lol.

You maybe right but it wasnt that tight if i remember. They were saying it maybe due to oil contamination. I had sprayed WD40 behind the blower area which may have done enough to break its will.

 

6 Rib does make things tougher to stop slip, but it is doable.

Aboodi, has a RevUp, and that makes even more of a problem. He also has the V7 YSi-B, again adding to the problem. I tried to talk him into a 10 Rib Setup, but he was determined to used a 6 Rib..... LOL

He has managed to run consistently with 28-30psi with a 6 Rib..... He does use the Poly Carbon Cog Belt, and so do I.

TimRod

 

Yea, you what to always keep your belts clean and free from any oil or dirt....

I check my cog belt hot (full Temp), and make sure it still has some play.

 

Will do, thanks for the advice!

 

Gates 78 inch 6-Rib didnt last one day. Went for a test rip earlier today, went WOT up to 5000rpm And heard a slap sound under the hood and some flapping. Also smelled burning. Come to find out the YSi was hungry. Glad the darn thing didnt snap on me, i was 20 miles out from home.

I should pullied down to the 2.6 pulley sooner, car feels soo much better off the line and not like a dog before with the 3.12.

 

You have extreme belt slip, look at all your pulleys.

Do this, See Below. This will Rap the Belt around the Crank pulley at least 90 degrees more, limiting belt slip. Search back to 2004 for my belt and pulley modification.

If you have a larger Crank pulley, then you will have to make a smaller diameter fixed idler pulley.

Get that fixed Before you go back to the Dyno!

TimRod

 

How much boost are you seeing with the 2.6 pulley?

 

I'll take a look later on, i dont think it was lack of tension because that belt was banjo tight, rather a siezed or hard spinning smooth idler. You can see there is alot of material scrapped off the flat side of the belt. Thanks for sharing again on the belt setup you have been nothing but helpful!

 

I was not sure as I was just focused on my AFRs. Max impeller speed will be just shy of 70k at 7000rpm with the 2.62 (Vortech Posted max Impeller speed is 65k) so the YSi will be overclocked by 5k at my desired redline. Car felt plenty strong even with low timing, only downside was the belt giving up the ghost.

 

Bought a new 78.5 Gates in town with some more slack to use. Checked all pulleys and none were worn, wabbling or making any odd noises. Going to have to research more on getting a tension pulley in place of the OEM idler location that fits that style and bolt pattern. Worst case is to find a machine shop to grind down my old stillen lighweight idler and remove the V teeth and smooth it out. Then there is getting the correct belt size again after that...

 

I can get you close on the belt size.

 

Quick question, did you check your alignment on your pulleys?

Before on street pulls, I would eat a belt every time I try going WOT. Tried checking alignment and found out my Blower bracket was warped. (Swapped it and now my belts are fine)

I don't know if it's Vortechs design, but that bracket isn't nowhere near strong enough that it should be. (Also note that I'm using Timrod's radius rod too)

 

Hey Otaku, from what i measured all my pulleys are aligned. Bracket is not warped at all. With the Fleetrunner belt i was using at the dyno, there was no belt slip whatsoever and no breakage, only when i pullied down to the 2.62 with a generic gates belt is where i had the problem of it snapping. My belt was literally banjo tight, could barely turn it, which is why it probably snapped once it hot hot upon operation. Im going to be running a Gates RPM belt instead of FleetrunnerHD because they dont have the size i need with this 2.62 pulley setup.

I have Timrod's Brace as well, i didnt notice any flexing of the bracket at my dyno session at National Speed so i say its doing its job

 

Update on the car. Put about 200 more miles on her after the new belt. Per 0taku's advice, i steadily revved the car under light load to redline to make sure the belt would hold and there were no problems or belt material in the engine bay. Car is driving well with no obvious issues.

Forgot to update on my base fuel pressure when i was getting tuned earlier this month. I am at 32psi at the FPR. I believe Vlad was able to idle the 2200s alot better at this rate, not going to question it. Car drives fine. Just needs to be dialed in for WOT and perhaps a higher idle once the engine is warm.

Moved my tune continuation day to the 1st of FEB so i will report on how the car does then, should have no belt issues (Fingers crossed*) A bit scared im pushing this shortblock on such high boost numbers + high compression but the E85 will definitly help with knock prevention, cooler cylinder temps as well as the TR1245 that will keep AITs at damn near ambient. Just joping the BAP will feed enough fuel to it, the Fuel pressure may need to be adjusted, but at 32PSI, this gives me soo much more room to work with.

 

why 32psi?

Stock is 52psi and your injector flow was probably based of 40 or 42psi?

just curious - not saying anything is wrong with 32psi

 

Not sure, Vlad at National Speed set it to this. When the BAP is activated it jumps to about 50psi, So I dont wanna give you a misinformed answer. Car drives fine normal load and on short low rpm WOT blips. He has been tuning cars for years so he must have a good reason.

 

Hehe the joys of running a single pump.

Can't wait to see the results and the amount of money I need to spend to pass you.

Sadly, my tuner is having issues with calibrating the dyno because the ground isn't even so the shop floor needs to be redone. Kinda feel bad for him from all the money he spent to get a loaded AWD dyno in his shop.

Ah well, it'll be fun watching your build in the meantime.

I know the feeling too. You're not alone. I'm not sure how much boost I'm pushing up top but seeing a healthy 14psi @ 3800 was nice to see.

 

Nah brother, you are running cams! Your midrange and topend will be on point on full send. Im still running all stock heads with these baby cams lol.

Arent you in central TX, how far are you from Uprev in Austin? And the shop that did my previous tune with my V3 is near the Fort Hood/Killeen area (Hi PSI Performance). And Admin tuning is outta houston. Theres options.

If i have to lower my redline, or run richer for the sake of safety or pulley down, that will be the move. Cause if this block breaks, im sending my other shortblock to RJM for a closed deck and same CP. Wife will be pissed but yolo.

 

Don't think Uprev will tune with the Link standalone. Also, I have full faith in the shop my car hangs out at, they did the complete build from stock. At this point it would be kinda dickish to just go somewhere else. (We're also good friends and I can't even thank him enough for the amount of hours he puts in it without charging me)

At this point I'm going to try pushing my build to the limit. If it blows, it blows. And if chance it does, I have set aside other plans to do a Ford Barra swap.

 

If Aboodi can push 32psi on 11.1 and cams, i think well be alright as long as were taking the necessary precautions and using the best parts we can get. Granted i dont have Turbo Tuff rods abd 625+ head bolts/studs. My L19s should be fine, and Eagle under rates their H-Beam rods, Rated at 600hp but seem ppl push over 800whp with no issues on the VQ with ethanol or race gas. At most without belt slip (Whuch i believe there will be some) i will be at 25-26psi at 6600, plan to rev to 7100 if Vlad gives the go ahead and there is enough fuel on the table.

I have a habit of watching those dyno fail videos on Youtube so its got my nerves on edge lol