Nice Sammy! Sounds really good, like a car charged from the factory. Not too loud. It's a natural look in the bay, like it was meant to be there.
It looks like you've done a lot to your Z. Gotta do a build thread, yeah?

 

Really loving the look of this kit and the feedback others are providing.

My goal is to build the block w/11:1 high compression and match it with this kit.

Currently running tomei 272 cams and pretty much all other supporting and bolt on mods, so I hope to hit right at the 500whp mark with the kit.

With a solid build at those numbers I feel like it would be an absolute blast that you could just hammer on!

 

HKS CLAIMS around 500/410 and to the wheels per their chart. They DON'T say anything about any other mods that I'm aware of and good luck getting info directly from HKS to get answers. I mean it, good luck and if anyone does get this info, please post it on this thread.

 

The only thing i don't like is, it flows less than 1000cfm's of air. But it also appears to be a very small blower.

 

Ah, a quote from the "RELATED THREAD" below ;
"HKS has recently made an upgrade to our current 350Z supercharger system to where you can reliably make up to 500WHP!!!"
Operative phrase being "where you can reliably make up to 500 whp". That kinda sorta answers my ?. So...intake plenum/manifold mods, full exhaust, cams and a built engine with higher compression??? Is this what it'll take to get 500/410?

 

The kit includes a restrictor plate to keep the boost down for cars that have stock internals.

Quote from manual:

"The restrictor plate is not required if the engine internals are modified to achieve engine output greater than 400HP"

 

I vaguely remember reading about the restrictor plate in the manual that AKS14 sent me awhile back.
So, the;
110mm pulley + restrictor plate = equal power to something like what the original kit made in blue below (?)
110mm pulley without restrictor = green on the chart below (??)
and
100mm + bolt-on's up the *** = red on the chart I guess (???)



So Sammy, you got any dyno charts yet? You're driving it around, so I assume you're tuned. We expect a full report of all mods from exhaust tips to the HKS and everything in between along with a dyno chart by this weekend, otherwise you're gonna have to turn the car over to me. Sorry.

 

Hey that's really interesting actually. I'd be curious to see what that restrictor plate looks like and where it's installed.

If I recall correctly, Z1 installed this kit on a white G35 that I saw at ZDayZ in May. Jon didn't have much time to tune it, but they made either 430ish whp or 460ish whp, I can't recall which one. I would imagine they left off the restrictor plate, and I'm fairly certain that car is running a stock block with bolt ons.

 

Found it.

It's on their site and the file is named "HKS Shanna" so it's definitely her white G35. 427whp with bolt on mods only isn't bad at all. I remember talking about being up closer to 450ish since I have cams and similar mods.

 

Also, on a question asked on the same page on their site they said they ran the 110mm pulley on that car. So, that's quite impressive.

 

I checked their site and couldn't find jack. You gotta link???

I guess it's obvious at this point that short of n2o and maybe water injection that the HKS will support 500/410 maxed out. Peak numbers aren't exactly the bee's knee's of performance but when and how the power comes on throughout the band. IIRC, the HKS goes to 100k rpm, spinning high like a turbo, and the way the torque comes on is like a turbo but the hp is like a centrifugal. It's max output would be all my fat assed FX's transmission could handle AFTER building the engine and transmission so this little sob would be perfect. It's small, lighter than a procharger or vortech, doesn't get so damn hot like a turbo and on it's best day cannot break my **** once built.
I'm reconsidering this thing and thinking I might try it without an intercooler, just pipe it straight to the throttle body and do a pro-meth water injection deal pre-compressor and even post compressor if necessary but definitely pre to start.

 

Link: https://www.z1motorsports.com/forced...t-p-13023.html

If you save the dyno chart from the page you'll see it's saved as Shanna's G35. Also, take note of the questions asked at the bottom of the page. I submitted one to ask about if the engine was built, but I'm pretty sure it's a stock short block.

Honestly, right at that 500whp mark on a built 11:1 block with cams would be absolutely perfect for what I want. I feel like I could completely hammer the car all the time without any worries whatsoever. From what I've read and seen, anything over 500 and it starts to just be a bit too much (at least for what my goals are).

I think I may take the plunge and run the 110mm pulley to keep things in check and maybe dial the tune back to keep me around 440ish whp until I can finish building the block. I have pretty much everything else I would need sans a fuel return kit and the uprev GT maf.

 

I have been very interested in hearing peoples experiences with this new kit. I'm an OG and will be retiring next year so my car will no longer be a DD, and I am considering all my options. 2JZ or LS swap, DE to HR swap with the Fast Intensions TT kit, (nice but very expensive), Jim Wolf TT kit? Best thing about this kit is I can just have my current engine that now has 257k miles on it built to handle the boost.

 

This is exciting as my goals are pretty much the same as Renfro's.

My only question is, will the HKS Rotrex still be in a safe operating spin limit or will it be over spun if some of us have raised rev limits. Personally mine is bumped up to 7.5k instead of 6600.

 

I had the same thoughts, honestly, but really it's just a matter of math to make sure you don't over-spin it. I currently (can) rev up to 8k with cams and springs. I typically still shift around 7200. I would imagine the easiest way to mitigate this would be to run the larger 110mm pulley. I would have to confirm with some math to make sure, but I imagine with the extra engine rpm range matched with the 110 you would essentially get the same charger rpm with the 100mm pulley at stock rev limit .

That logic may not be sound until the math proves it, but that may not be a bad way to go if you're intending to rev higher. If the 100m drastically overshoots the charger limits, I would just stick with the 110 in order to mitigate charger damage. If it's close, I may still run the 100mm, but would still short shift the car more than likely anyway.

 

If you were to choose high rpm over the smaller pulley, you'll be sacrificing power down low. So long as the desired power is there, why bother with high rpm's?

 

I run 272 cams, so my power has shifted a good bit to the right anyway, especially matched with my other parts. I prefer the idea of "the higher I rev, the more power I have" vs. having a stout low end and flattened top end, if that makes sense?

This is mainly just all theory in my head at this point. I'm always willing to run the 110mm to start and then drop to the smaller one if I'm not satisfied with the feel of the powerband, but I certainly imagine a jump from 304whp to somewhere around 450whp will be plenty satisfying LOL.

 

Gotcha. I'm sure it will be satisfying and hopefully something you'll be content with cause this supercharger is not exactly conducive to the "never enough" craving most seem to get when installing a power adder.

Thinking of camshafts, someone was supposed to post their cam related dyno chart awhile back.

I'm undecided as to which way to go to get my fat-assed AWD FX35 down the 1/4 in less than 12 seconds.
Scenario 1; Toss the HKS on there with the 110 for awhile then build engine & trans and swap in the 100
Scenario 2; Keep it naturally aspirated. Build the engine & trans. Higher compression, the JWT cams below (cause I like the power throughout the band) and see if I can get a solid 300/280 to the wheels then a 125-150 shot for special occasions and of coarse an 11 second time slip.

I've been debating this for quite some time. Previously, I almost pulled the trigger on a Vortech.

Here's a cam shootout from Saha Anis from 2010. Don't think much if anything has changed since.

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/modp-1012-nissan-vq-street-cam/"
CHART COLOR LEGEND
STOCK-GREEN (HP) BLUE (TORQUE)
NISMO-PURPLE
TOMEI-RED
JWT-YELLOW
DYNO RESULTSSTOCKJWT S1TOMEI 264NISMO R-TUNEHorsepower272.7291.7290.1289.6Torque257.9270.8266.9264.7

 

So, last night I couldn't sleep. I did some math calculations on max impeller speed for the GTS8555 for high rpm use. After multiple attempts of trying to figure out HKS's formula, I debated on tossing my phone or busting out an abacus because it was so confusing.

So much for that idea. I looked for the thread on another way of calculating the impeller speed on the forums and here is what I ended up getting as numbers based off using 928motorsport's formula:

I=(Crank pulley size / Blower pulley size) x step up ratio x max rpm

Max engine rpm: 7500
ATI Crank Pulley diameter: 6.610"
HKS SC pulley: 4.724" (120mm)
SC drive (step-up) ratio: 9.368

Impeller speed using those numbers would give me 98,310.46 rpm, which is within the limit of the GTS8555 (100k rpm).

If we used Renfro's idea of using the 110mm (4.331") pulley and kept all other variables the same, we'd get 107,231.26 rpm. Obviously over the recommended limit, but I'm pretty sure that if you don't beat the snot out of your car every day, you'd be able to prolong the life of the supercharger...and car too.