HKS HVC6 Boost Controller Install Question
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
HKS HVC6 Boost Controller Install Question
I want to make sure I am installing this correctly. Please forgive my paint drawings.
I have greddy's twin turbo 18g kit, which uses tial wastegate which has a lower and upper port. Currently from both lower ports vacuum lines are ran into a T then the port from the manifold (upper plenum) is rain into a T with this line and then ran into a boost guage.
The difference between the picture in the controller installation and my setup is there is no port before the throttle valve it is on the plenum.
Q: Should the lower port still be connected to the manifold (plenum) as well as a separate line from manifold to the controller be ran? Or should it be like this
Controller Manual
I have greddy's twin turbo 18g kit, which uses tial wastegate which has a lower and upper port. Currently from both lower ports vacuum lines are ran into a T then the port from the manifold (upper plenum) is rain into a T with this line and then ran into a boost guage.
The difference between the picture in the controller installation and my setup is there is no port before the throttle valve it is on the plenum.
Q: Should the lower port still be connected to the manifold (plenum) as well as a separate line from manifold to the controller be ran? Or should it be like this
Controller Manual
Last edited by Tanahara; 07-25-2016 at 09:12 AM. Reason: AWESOME DOODLES
#2
Personally I didn't like the rubber hose and I ended up installing a vacuum manifold. The second image will work but make sure all the hoses on the t's are tight. Here's some picks of what I did for my twin turbo setup. I'm sort of a **** about reliability so I spent the money and did right so I'll never have to worry about blowing lines off.
I also left one port open on the vacuum manifold with a plug for the future fuel psi regulator.
I also left one port open on the vacuum manifold with a plug for the future fuel psi regulator.
#4
Thank you! I think I had around $250 in fittings hoses and the manifold if your thinking of doing the same sort of setup. The most expensive part of it was the five 1/16npt to 1/8npt adapters that were $15 a piece. Depending on the port size on your wastegates and bov u may be able to do it all for cheaper.
#6
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Thread Starter
Thank you! I think I had around $250 in fittings hoses and the manifold if your thinking of doing the same sort of setup. The most expensive part of it was the five 1/16npt to 1/8npt adapters that were $15 a piece. Depending on the port size on your wastegates and bov u may be able to do it all for cheaper.
I think i will look at adding this in because i still need to install my bov as well. I like the clean and sturdy factor.
#7
You should be ok to turn the diaphragm housing on the wastegates if thats what you are referring to. As long as it isn't staked or keyed which most aren't.
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#9
Is this a question or a statement? Yes I used fuel hose and worm clamps feeding the vacuum manifold. I used the port directly behind the throttle body to feed the vacuum manifold. Unless I were to weld the unused ports closed on the intake manifold and then drill and tap 1/8npt into the intake manifold this was the best way to do it and it works very well. Yes closing/drilling/tapping would probably look a little cleaner but I'm happy with it. If there's a better way to do it I'm open to ideas...
#11
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Thread Starter
I have far left running straite to top ports, middle to lower ports and right to intake after throttle body. Is there issues with this setup?
#13
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
Exactly my thought. Is that RTV in the fittings too? The orange sealant?
I wouldn't use push to connect and that style hose. Sure its DOT approved for brakes and air suspension...but what about during VAC? Bend radius sucks, subject to kink.
I would have honestly went with AN hose if you wanted a really clean and reliable setup.
to add to this comment about another scenario:
The top wastegate port should be referenced after the TB. The bottom port of the poppet valve should be pre TB. The reason for this is when your TB closes, the motor pulls a vac behind the TB which will force your wastegates open since the bottom port still has boost in it until the BOV releases it.
I wouldn't use push to connect and that style hose. Sure its DOT approved for brakes and air suspension...but what about during VAC? Bend radius sucks, subject to kink.
I would have honestly went with AN hose if you wanted a really clean and reliable setup.
The top wastegate port should be referenced after the TB. The bottom port of the poppet valve should be pre TB. The reason for this is when your TB closes, the motor pulls a vac behind the TB which will force your wastegates open since the bottom port still has boost in it until the BOV releases it.
#14
Exactly my thought. Is that RTV in the fittings too? The orange sealant?
I wouldn't use push to connect and that style hose. Sure its DOT approved for brakes and air suspension...but what about during VAC? Bend radius sucks, subject to kink.
I would have honestly went with AN hose if you wanted a really clean and reliable setup.
to add to this comment about another scenario:
The top wastegate port should be referenced after the TB. The bottom port of the poppet valve should be pre TB. The reason for this is when your TB closes, the motor pulls a vac behind the TB which will force your wastegates open since the bottom port still has boost in it until the BOV releases it.
I wouldn't use push to connect and that style hose. Sure its DOT approved for brakes and air suspension...but what about during VAC? Bend radius sucks, subject to kink.
I would have honestly went with AN hose if you wanted a really clean and reliable setup.
to add to this comment about another scenario:
The top wastegate port should be referenced after the TB. The bottom port of the poppet valve should be pre TB. The reason for this is when your TB closes, the motor pulls a vac behind the TB which will force your wastegates open since the bottom port still has boost in it until the BOV releases it.
#15
New Member
Thread Starter
to add to this comment about another scenario:
The top wastegate port should be referenced after the TB. The bottom port of the poppet valve should be pre TB. The reason for this is when your TB closes, the motor pulls a vac behind the TB which will force your wastegates open since the bottom port still has boost in it until the BOV releases it.
The top wastegate port should be referenced after the TB. The bottom port of the poppet valve should be pre TB. The reason for this is when your TB closes, the motor pulls a vac behind the TB which will force your wastegates open since the bottom port still has boost in it until the BOV releases it.
#16
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
Pre-TB port/ref feeds:
Lower side of Poppet valve
Post TB port/ref feeds:
Map sensor on AEM Gauge/haltech
Boost controller feed for Upper port of Poppet Valve
FPR
BOV
#17
New Member
Thread Starter
Back to my horrible paint lol
Is this the way you have yours ? Im not having an overboosting problem that i can see but actually cant quite get to 10psi (I do have stock exhaust atm ik ik lol next project in about 2 weeks to replace it)
#18
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
I use a 3 port mac valve.
3 ports are routed as follows:
Reference post TB
Air/Vent
To the wastegates, top port of the poppet valve
The plumbing is such that if the MAC valve is not actuated, i hit wastegate spring boost
Your drawing looks a bit messed up.
The post TB ref should go to the boost controller and through it back to the wastegates. There should not be that T
The pre-TB ref should just go to the wastegates and not even touch the boost controller
*that is general boost solenoid plumbing...maybe HKS gets a bit weird. Which it looks like it does. Good luck!
3 ports are routed as follows:
Reference post TB
Air/Vent
To the wastegates, top port of the poppet valve
The plumbing is such that if the MAC valve is not actuated, i hit wastegate spring boost
Your drawing looks a bit messed up.
The post TB ref should go to the boost controller and through it back to the wastegates. There should not be that T
The pre-TB ref should just go to the wastegates and not even touch the boost controller
*that is general boost solenoid plumbing...maybe HKS gets a bit weird. Which it looks like it does. Good luck!
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