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The car was ran on the jack stands numerous times. The first voyage was to the end of the street and back, inspected then maybe a mile down the road then inspected. Then we went to help a friend work on his car and everything was fine and dandy until the return trip. When you turn the key you can hear the pump its quite loud. So the pump was working when we took up but maybe 1000 feet down the road a huge plume of smoke. The car felt fine so I figured it must have been the turbo crapped the bed. Nothing more I could do so I limped it on home. Once I shut it off that is when noticed I didn't heard any pump sounds. Got under the car and nothing was dangling so I turned the key on and sure enough no pump. Key on, Key off, Key on, Key off, and then Key on to roll up the windows and the stupid pump kicked on. Then this morning I cleaned the garage to pull the car in garage since we now entering wet season and I want to be able to work on it at any given time. Same thing as last night, key on no pump, key off, key on pump, key off, key on no pump, then working pump like 4 times in a row.
So no idea what is going on but you know what, a $400 pump is better than a Engine or Turbo. New pump should be here sometime next weekend.
Did you check and see if you had voltage to the pump before just tossing a new pump to it? it could be something as simple as a bad relay or a bad wire crimp on the signal wire. Also did you do any tuning before just sending it? Seems quite silly to go out hitting wastegate without tuning after switching from supercharging to turbo.
Did you check and see if you had voltage to the pump before just tossing a new pump to it? it could be something as simple as a bad relay or a bad wire crimp on the signal wire. Also did you do any tuning before just sending it? Seems quite silly to go out hitting wastegate without tuning after switching from supercharging to turbo.
Grey, i don know if you are familiar with how the BP scavenge pump is wired or not. But the pump gets its power straight from the IPDM from the windshield wiper fuse so as soon as you key on the car you are sending power to the pump. In my experience(not very much btw) if a crimp is bad it typically takes some sort of movement to break and restore the connection. But in my case the car is on jack stands, and the pump is being flaky when turning on the key. Last night when I went to pull the log, the pump kicked on but my laptop died so I shut off the car. Went back out and the pump did not turn on when I keyed on the car. To me it looks like something is going on with the pump and I'd much rather spend the money to ensure I have a good pump.
As for beating on it with out a tune yea I know I'm dumb for doing it, but the piggyback is set up to add/subtract up to 25% fuel. I was watching the Wideband and Boost Gauge the entire time so If anything went crazy I was ready to get out of it. The AFR's only went to down to 10.5 and then leaned back up to 11.0 as the pull went on. To be fair I never went above 5K.
Grey, i don know if you are familiar with how the BP scavenge pump is wired or not. But the pump gets its power straight from the IPDM from the windshield wiper fuse so as soon as you key on the car you are sending power to the pump. In my experience(not very much btw) if a crimp is bad it typically takes some sort of movement to break and restore the connection. But in my case the car is on jack stands, and the pump is being flaky when turning on the key. Last night when I went to pull the log, the pump kicked on but my laptop died so I shut off the car. Went back out and the pump did not turn on when I keyed on the car. To me it looks like something is going on with the pump and I'd much rather spend the money to ensure I have a good pump.
As for beating on it with out a tune yea I know I'm dumb for doing it, but the piggyback is set up to add/subtract up to 25% fuel. I was watching the Wideband and Boost Gauge the entire time so If anything went crazy I was ready to get out of it. The AFR's only went to down to 10.5 and then leaned back up to 11.0 as the pull went on. To be fair I never went above 5K.
I KNOW I KNOW I KNOW.....I was silly....
Conway...bad ignition timing values will do more damage than middle of the road AFR...
But dont worry - you've used up all your bad-luck and it's nothing but puppy dogs, sunshine, and skittles from here on out!
Conway...bad ignition timing values will do more damage than middle of the road AFR...
But dont worry - you've used up all your bad-luck and it's nothing but puppy dogs, sunshine, and skittles from here on out!
With the blower making more boost than the turbo I figured the timing would be plenty safe. Looking at the log I have it is showing I was at 15*. I wrote the tuner last week asking about a using the blower tune with less fuel as a good a base map. I still haven't heard anything, but I would like to go 95% of the bugs worked out before spending a ton of money on a dyno session to find stuff I could of fixed prior.
@GreyZ I should of listened better to you, but me being me went ahead and ordered stuff.
Quick weekend update:
I received the new pump, all is going well until I go to install it. The new pump is physically the same size as the old one, but the heat sinks are much bigger.
When it came time to mount the pump on the onto the brace, none of the holes lined up. About 5 drill bits latter I was able to make two new holes in the bracket. In order to get four I would have to refab this bracket, the back two feet still touch the metal bracket. So, I think I'm g2g with two bolts holding it down.
You can see how close the hole is to the edge. Not idea but it is not going any where. Along with having to mess with that, since the new pump sits higher I had to do a little trimming on the transmission to get the 180* bend to fit. Without hitting.
This is where I owe GreyZ a "My Bad". After hooking up the new pump I turn on the key and nothing...nada,,,the pump doesnt spin F M L . Now I have to troubleshoot the wiring, but we are hours past my bed time "I'm old leave me alone" . I called it a night.
Woke up this morning 6:10'ish and started working on the car again. I determine that something is going on with this relay, It is wired correctly I can hear it click over but the pump is not getting more than 3-4 volts. After talking with Bealljk we both agree to just rewire it.
This is the old 5 pin relay, no idea why this was used, it is constant drain on the battery between pin 30 and 87A.
I ran to Advanced Auto and got myself a nice 4 pin relay, same one I used for my fuel pump.
Wire it all up with spade connectors to each leg of the new relay. Once everything was confirmed working I put heat shrink over each of the connectors so they can not short out against anything. Once that was done I took some electrical tape and wrapped all the wires to give them some stability and help prevent them pull of in the future.
Car is back up and running...Now time to get some driving time on it and then schedule the tune.
#1...This was after I pull the plug out a little bit and let some of the oil drain into the cylinder.
This is number 3. I took picture before messing with the plug.
#5 was perfectly dry as well as the entire driver side.
To be safe I went ahead and ordered both side from Rock Auto. Now I did NOT order the $200 valve covers, but I also did not order the cheapest ones either.
Also my #4 spark plug porcelain was black, the rest of the plugs nice and white. So I need to order one plug and replace it.
Its been quite a while since I updated this thread, car is still on jackstands. I have begun the hunt for a stock block to throw in it until I can get the built one fixed.
Finally have my garage back and no longer that stupid 1,000* F/1,000% FL Humidity.
Time to pull the engine and try to figure out why I am down so much compression on hole that ate the spark plug.
Spent some hours working on the car yesterday. I am down to my engine mount nuts and the engine is ready to come out.
All was going well until I started removing the intercooler piping and it started pi$$ing oil. Now, I need to remove my intercooler and clean it out as well :-(
I managed to get the engine out of the car this weekend. I thought not pulling the front clip would make it a little quicker....jokes was on me...now I need to remount my fuel pressure regulator :-(
I've been real lazy recently, but Yesterday i decided i need to tear the engine apart to asses the damage. What i learned is i need to get the ceank polished, the block honed and cleaned, order and gap rings then reasemble. I have also decided i'm going to reasseble the engine in the house where i can keep it clean.
