When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I dont think its the cutting oil because i dont see it anywhere else on the engine, and i wiped it up the other day and its starting to pool back up. I just didnt think oil would even be up there
I dont think its the cutting oil because i dont see it anywhere else on the engine, and i wiped it up the other day and its starting to pool back up. I just didnt think oil would even be up there
Are you just noticing it now or has it been there since day 1?
I just noticed it now, but it was a lot of oil pooled up and dripping. But then again, its on the side of the engine that has been right next to the wall until recently so i never would notice
Last edited by louisville13; Dec 27, 2017 at 05:49 PM.
I just noticed it now, but it was a lot of oil pooled up and dripping. But then again, its on the side of the engine that has been right next to the wall until recently so i never would notice
if this is the only oil that's leaking, you are light years ahead
if this is the only oil that's leaking, you are light years ahead
Lmfao greddy probz.
Sounds like you should pull the cover and take a look at the gasket. You'll have to re-apply rtv per the fsm procedure. Permatex ultra grey is recommended in fsm
Sounds like you should pull the cover and take a look at the gasket. You'll have to re-apply rtv per the fsm procedure. Permatex ultra grey is recommended in fsm
figures, right when i get the engine together it has to come apart again. Thanks for the recommendations
Figured Id give a brief update for anyone that cares:
Well it has been a couple of months since I have been home, but this week is spring break so I am hoping to get my car pretty close to finished. Spent a few hours today removing the front end and disconnecting some stuff from the engine. I am planning on leaving the wiring harness connected to the engine and pulling the connector through the firewall because it seems easier. I have a few more connectors to remove, then all I have to do is figure out if I am leaving the transmission in the car or not. So I should have the engine out by Monday, then its on to the fuel system!
Any advice on if I should remove the transmission or not? Im looking for the easiest method. Also I would only have to drain the transmission if I leave it in the car, correct?
Today wasn't very successful. I can not get the bolts on my test pipes loose for the life of me. My impact and breaker bar are both too big to fit. I sprayed some PB blaster on them and will try again in the morning.
Any advice on if I should remove the transmission or not? Im looking for the easiest method. Also I would only have to drain the transmission if I leave it in the car, correct?
Today wasn't very successful. I can not get the bolts on my test pipes loose for the life of me. My impact and breaker bar are both too big to fit. I sprayed some PB blaster on them and will try again in the morning.
I just pulled my engine with longtubes without pulling the tranny. I had to remove my driver side header to get it all the way out but i got it 80% out with the headers still intact.
I just pulled my engine with longtubes without pulling the tranny. I had to remove my driver side header to get it all the way out but i got it 80% out with the headers still intact.
That was my original plan, but there were a couple bolts in the back of the engine on the top of the bell housing that looked like a pain in the *** to get to. I guess that wasn't the case?
That was my original plan, but there were a couple bolts in the back of the engine on the top of the bell housing that looked like a pain in the *** to get to. I guess that wasn't the case?
No they are super easy to get to once you pull the manifold. The only one that kinda sucked for me was on the driver side last 17mm bolt from the top since it's right in front of one of the exhaust pipes and you can only get about 1/2 a turn at a time on it. I think it took me by myself 5 hours or so to pull it over two days. Its possible to do it way quicker but i took my time and bagged all the bolts together.
Any advice on if I should remove the transmission or not? ... I sprayed some PB blaster on them and will try again in the morning.
you gotta pull the transmission to re-install the engine with the greddy waste gates installed. The engine (with the waste gates installed) will not fit over the transmission bell housing and clear the fire wall.
You could install the waste gates after you install the engine but this would be +/-3 times more work and quite possibly the biggest pain in the *** in the world. and further more re-attaching the trans to the engine & lining the clutch spline is significantly easier outside of the car.
The caveat is if you are installing a waste gate relocation kit...in which you may be able to do this but I'd still pull the trans.
and while the waste gates are off you should thoroughly inspect the diaphragms and replace if they show any signs of wear (they are cheap ~$40 per diaphragm). also coat the valve/plunger stem with anti-seize paste.
Y'all are really helping me out, a lot of these things I never would have thought of. Im going to start looking at threads to pull the transmission here in a couple minutes. I got the wiring harness disconnected, got the exhaust disconnected, and everything ready to go. I think as soon as I disconnect the transmission ill be ready to pull everything out and start the fuel system. I took a few days off because, as I mentioned before (I think), its spring break and these past few days I have been much too hung over to mess with the car. Should make a lot of progress today though.
