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Hey everyone, I just got my engine buttoned back up, what a pain. Definitley labeling and keeping track of all my bolts next time. Anyways now tjat thats over I thought I was onto the easy part of installing my turbo kit. However, I discovered that my used kit was missing almost all the bolts, nuts, studs, gaskets, etc. It came with a wastegate relocation kit and open dumps which I wasnt expecting so that makes up for it.
Anyways, I have been trying to track down parts and had a quick question about gaskets. The only gasket I have really been able to find on google is circular while the ones in the manual are more triangle. The circular ones look like theyd fit the outlet but not too sure about the inlet. Anyone know where I can find these gaskets? The manual says it has 4 of the triangle shaped gaskets so idk if the circular one will work. Heres the pics of what i found and whats in the manual.
side note- i emailed greddy about getting some hardware but never heard back
What ive found Whats in the manual
Last edited by louisville13; 11-29-2017 at 10:04 AM.
Go to lowes or home depot and get new allen wrench style bolts/washers/nuts - it'll install 10 times easier than the typical socket style. Try to get 12.9 grade hardware too - it'll stand up better to the heating/cooling cycles and will disassembly better if/when you have to take the kit/components off the car. Also would be wise to coat your threads with antisieze compound
Replace the oil lines with new lines if you haven't already and consider installing a filter on the feed lines.
Now would be a great time to either buy new CHRA for the blowers or have them rebuilt.
Consider replacing the diaphragms in the waste gates & BOV
scour the internet for those gaskets, you'll find them and you may want to pick up a can of copper gasket spray and coat your gaskets.
might be smart to weld the first hard pipe to the cold side turbo housing ... just make sure it's clocked right
I can offer a few tips on hardware ... but give me a few minutes
Take your time. I really appreciate it. I have a few random nuts and bolts along with a couple exhaust gaskets and thats aboit it as far as hardware goes.
Go to lowes or home depot and get new allen wrench style bolts/washers/nuts - it'll install 10 times easier than the typical socket style. Try to get 12.9 grade hardware too - it'll stand up better to the heating/cooling cycles and will disassembly better if/when you have to take the kit/components off the car. Also would be wise to coat your threads with antisieze compound
Replace the oil lines with new lines if you haven't already and consider installing a filter on the feed lines.
Now would be a great time to either buy new CHRA for the blowers or have them rebuilt.
Consider replacing the diaphragms in the waste gates & BOV
scour the internet for those gaskets, you'll find them and you may want to pick up a can of copper gasket spray and coat your gaskets.
might be smart to weld the first hard pipe to the cold side turbo housing ... just make sure it's clocked right
As far as the fasteners go, should I just throw locking washers on everything? Wish i would have thought about allen style nuts before i bought new nuts and locking washers for the manifold stud. So far turbos are rebuilt, new springs are in the wastegate but no new diapghram (moneys very tight), the oil lines look pretty new but ill go check into replacing them. Ive never heard of welding to the turbo housing, then again im not very well read in the subject, how necessary is that? Thanks for all the help!
Edit* also i know the kit came with manifold studs, i was going to cut the oem ones down. Should i use studs anywhere else though? Like to bolt the turbos to the manifold since there's no way to put a nut on?
Last edited by louisville13; 11-29-2017 at 12:32 PM.
i do not recommend welding the passenger side pipe to the turbo. The clearance to the car body is tight and if your motor rocks and you make contact...kiss your manifold goodbye.
The coupler can be installed with the turbo on the car, yeah its tight but nothing too hard. I even do it with Tbolt clamps.
Also, if you ever want to pull the turbo with the engine in the car, that welded pipe may make it impossible. Its hard enough as is.
^all good points ... I have clearance and I'm on solid motor mounts so my engine movement is minimal.
read CUX's build, my build, Oreilly has a decent build page, TT350z has some good stuff ... Take a few hours and read peoples build page and take notes ... do what worked / dont do what didnt work...
Thanks everyone! ill be sure to post if I have any trouble tracking down any parts but I don't think that'll happen. Hopefully I get to ~750whp without anymore road blocks
Any reason not to buy gaskets off of eBay? I found this set so I could buy 2 of them for $80 (gaskets are way more expensive than I imagined!) or buy from greddy or frsport and spend $80 on just inlet/outlet gaskets
Haha Im pretty sure I have everything I need already. 750 would be pushing it but according to the guy that built my turbo (I can't remember the shop) 700 shouldn't be an issue
750whp will require (roughly) 25psi to 30psi of boost pressure ...
you'll need significant engine, fuel, cooling, tuning/ECU modifications -
to hit 750whp it'll cost you in the ballpark of $25k to $35k plus the cost of the car
you gotta pay to play
all the sudden $80 in gaskets sounds inexpensive
you keep throwing me off, I keep expecting to see a new post haha. And trust me, I know how much it costs, as I spent just about every penny i have (30k, if not, very close to it) on this project. So now money is very tight, which is why $80 seems very expensive for gaskets haha, but I just purchased them from greddy
Yessir
Built long block from Dynosty (well mostly from dynosty, I got a little eager to get it home and had to finish it up)
upgraded cjm twin fuel pump with fuel return and id 1300cc injectors
haltech soon to be tuned by dynosty
oil cooler, front mount intercooler, pathfinder cooling mod, oem radiator as of now
first build right here, go big or go home, 2005 350z track ed
Yessir
Built long block from Dynosty (well mostly from dynosty, I got a little eager to get it home and had to finish it up)
upgraded cjm twin fuel pump with fuel return and id 1300cc injectors
haltech soon to be tuned by dynosty
oil cooler, front mount intercooler, pathfinder cooling mod, oem radiator as of now
first build right here, go big or go home, 2005 350z track ed
right on - start a build page for sure ... go big only if it's safe ... don't pop your block for a sheet of paper
How long have you had your car? You got any pictures of the car?
right on - start a build page for sure ... go big only if it's safe ... don't pop your block for a sheet of paper
How long have you had your car? You got any pictures of the car?
I think I have had it right about 3 years, got it with 33k miles on it and planned not to build it. 2 months later I had it on the dyno with a few bolt ons and about 6 months after that i was purchasing parts for a tt build with the original goal of 400whp. I got a bit carried away haha. Heres how she sits now. Ill start a build thread soon hopefully, just have been really busy with school.
Better bore our those turbos to 20g specs, billet impellers. Gonna need a $2000 dollar clutch to hold that power. Upgrade your cooling. I suggest Evans NPG+ and the largest radiator you can fit. And Meth...lots of meth.
The greddy turbos start dropping off their efficiency at 22 +psi (pull up a td05h-18g compressor map).
For comparison i made 640whp at 18.5 psi on some td06h-20g cast impeller turbos which is on track with JTGLI.
Lol Bealjk they're called socket head cap screws (or button head, but use socket heads in this case OP) Stainless ones... MCmaster carr is recommended, good price, 2 day shipping standard. Lock washers if they are the beefy ones, not the cheesy thin ones. It's a bit late for this though.
Op do you have the suspension built up? Poly everything... Aluminum subframe or it will tweak and walk sideways under acceleration.
What tires are you planning to run? You're going to want some 11.5" wheels and 315+ tires if those aren't already in that size range. I spin 4th with my 275 MPSS at 430 ft lbs of torque depending on temperature.
Also engine mounts like bealjk and cux said, go solid aluminum or you'll crack a manifold. I think it took a while for people to put 2 and 2 together there, they were blaming the castings for a while a few years back.
You're going to love the dump tubes, I ended up making 40 more ft lbs at a lower boost level than without them.
Also, this post comes off a bit pushy, just sharing what I've learned
Here are a few pics of my hardware configuration with the dump tubes. It allows me to remove anything I need to without pulling the motor. I'm missing a socket head cap screw on the drivers side in one of the pics, it's a hex bolt instead.
Better bore our those turbos to 20g specs, billet impellers. Gonna need a $2000 dollar clutch to hold that power. Upgrade your cooling. I suggest Evans NPG+ and the largest radiator you can fit. And Meth...lots of meth.
The greddy turbos start dropping off their efficiency at 22 +psi (pull up a td05h-18g compressor map).
For comparison i made 640whp at 18.5 psi on some td06h-20g cast impeller turbos which is on track with JTGLI.
Oh yea I forgot to mention that I had the turbos sent out and upgraded to 20g compressors/rebuilt. I plan on running e85 and about 26lbs of boost. They guys at the turbo shop were talking like these turbos would make 800whpp easy, but I wasn't buying into that. I also have an OS Giken twin disc clutch. Only thing I hadn't thought about was the radiator and engine mounts. Its a relief to know that theres a way to keep the cast from cracking.
Anyways with my engine set up, I was told the lowest power I could get out of it on 93 would be somewhere around the 5-600 level, so didn't think the extra 100 or so who would be too hard to milk, especially since I had planned on opened dumps and 3" downpipes. However now that i found the wastegate relocation kit and open dumps in my kit (at least I think I did) I am thinking that there won't be much of a difference going from the 2.25" to 3" downpipe.
In all honesty my goal was 400whp so I will be happy with anything over 600....for now.
Lol Bealjk they're called socket head cap screws (or button head, but use socket heads in this case OP) Stainless ones... MCmaster carr is recommended, good price, 2 day shipping standard. Lock washers if they are the beefy ones, not the cheesy thin ones. It's a bit late for this though.
Op do you have the suspension built up? Poly everything... Aluminum subframe or it will tweak and walk sideways under acceleration.
What tires are you planning to run? You're going to want some 11.5" wheels and 315+ tires if those aren't already in that size range. I spin 4th with my 275 MPSS at 430 ft lbs of torque depending on temperature.
Also engine mounts like bealjk and cux said, go solid aluminum or you'll crack a manifold. I think it took a while for people to put 2 and 2 together there, they were blaming the castings for a while a few years back.
You're going to love the dump tubes, I ended up making 40 more ft lbs at a lower boost level than without them.
Also, this post comes off a bit pushy, just sharing what I've learned
Here are a few pics of my hardware configuration with the dump tubes. It allows me to remove anything I need to without pulling the motor. I'm missing a socket head cap screw on the drivers side in one of the pics, it's a hex bolt instead.
Haven't gotten around to the suspension yet, its a slow process haha, but I do appreciate the info on the engine mounts. i also haven't bought the bolts/studs I needed yet, I spent hours looking but couldn't find what I wanted. I may just buy grade 12.9 bolts and cut em down if necessary. You're talking about the split lock washer yea?
Right now Im running 275s in the back like you, and it'll probably stay that way for a bit until I get more money saved up. I can always drive slower ha. Did i miss how much power you were making or did you not say?
Also I couldn't find the pipes I assumed were the wastegate relocation pipes anywhere online, but I don't know what else they could be. They just look so different than everyone else, but the manifold had a block off plate and it came with open dumps so not sure what else it could be. Heres a pic:
i know the dump is on upside down, I got mixed around when I put it on first ha
Last edited by louisville13; 11-30-2017 at 05:34 AM.
11-29-2017, 07:01 AM
Greddy 18g Hardware Question
