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I would test P2135 against what the factory service manual has for troubleshooting … I wouldnt spend more money on cam position sensors and assuming you bought OEM or hitachi brand?
11083410[/url]]I would test P2135 against what the factory service manual has for troubleshooting … I wouldnt spend more money on cam position sensors and assuming you bought OEM or hitachi brand?
yes when it comes to the Z I’ve learned only the OEM sensors work right/last
Weekend update, I decided I was tired of troubleshooting stuff and ended up replacing a few things. First the oil pressure sensor, It was working intermittently so I decided to just replace it. The new pedal switch grommets came from Z1 so I swapped them out and I ended up purchasing a new hatachi throttle body, did the procedures to zero out the accelerator pedal sensor setting in the ecu, then did the procedure for the throttle body relearn and then idle relearn. Took it for a 10 mile drive and idle and cruising are significantly better, no more idle surge when I let the RPMs drop. I’m going to hold off on saying the problem is solved until I’ve driven it another 100-200 miles or so but I think it was probably a combination of dirty throttle body, bad oil pressure sensor, rotting pedal grommets, and a need for a throttle body and accelerator pedal relearn. I should note that the old throttle body was dirty enough to be getting stuck. The front of the butterfly plate is clean but behind it there was a good bit of sludge and some obvious marks where the butterfly plate was brushing through the sludge. I’ll drive her around for a bit this weekend and see if any of the codes come back and I’ll let you guys know how things go
I’m going to save the old throttle body and clean it, in the future for my turbo build I plan to run Vibrant HD clamps or an equivalent product and will need to weld a flange to the throttle body. If this one works after a good cleaning and welding a flange to it I might just use it and keep the new one unmodified
I’m at 97 miles now no trouble codes and the oil pressure gauge has been operating without problems, I did have a fuel leak in the cabin where the oem subwoofer goes, had a cheap part go bad and was leaking fuel
Been thinking I wasn’t happy with the fuel surge tank as it is for a while now, I came up with the setup almost 2 years ago and it’s functional but I no longer want fuel components in the cabin of the vehicle. I pulled all the components and electrical out, swapped back to a single canister with the CJM fuel correction kit so everything would still work as a regular return style system, and the car is happy. In fact I took it for emissions testing today and passed despite the nasty fuel smell in the cabin. The testing inspector mentioned he wasn’t happy with the fuel smell but after I assured him it had already been corrected he let it slide. Now I just need to get the fuel smell out of the car. As for the fueling needs of the future turbo I’m still planning on using a surge tank setup it just needs to be outside the vehicle. I have several ideas about how to setup the fuel and electrical involved but I’m going to focus on refining the tune and a few other things while it’s hot out and save fabrication stuff for when it starts cooling down a bit. also now that it’s working properly I kind of want to enjoy it for a bit, take it to a few car shows/meets.
I like the approach … many of my ideas of the past 10-15years looked good on paper, looked good when I executed/installed on the car, but didnt perform like I thought … it sucks to undo work but sometimes that’s the best way to move forward.
Well it’s been awhile since I posted here, been enjoying the car as it for the last several weeks, in that time I’ve been planing out what I need for the next phase of the project. Right now I’m running bare minimum electronics and that makes the tuning process very slow as I basically rely on uprev for all my data. I decided I wanted to completely change my the dash setup. So the new plan is as follows 1) I’m replacing the dash cubby with a 7” digital display 2) replacing the oem triple gauge pod with AEM x series gauges specifically GPS speedometer, Truboost, Wideband 3) I’m installing AEM’s 22 channel can bus interface 4) install a sub fuse and relay panel with a circuit breaker for quick power disabling for when I need to work on something 5) instead of running the AEM fuel and oil pressure gauges I already purchased, I’m going to just use the sensors with the digital display, additionally I also purchased an AEM oil temp sensor and a oil adaptor for the sensors 6) I’m building a breakout harness for new and future sensors and solenoid I’ll need for the turbo setup 7) since I will already have the interior torn apart for this I’m going to go ahead and redo my stereo and prep wiring for the eventual modified fuel surge setup
It’s getting cold out so I’ve parked the Z for the winter to finish up the electronics project and turbo fabrication. I start a new job this week at a Motorsport shop, it’s a much shorter commute and pay’s better so I’m hoping to have more time and resources to put towards the Z. As for the gauges and digital display I’ve just about finished prototyping brackets for everything here’s my work so far for the gauges and display
Got the bracket to fit Here is a close up of the space clearance behind the display Bracket with the display Gauge mounts to install aftermarket gauges where oem center triple pod goes
I have the trim rings for the center console gauges removed since I’m needed to sand down the textured plastic before painting it but I have a gallon of the oem paint to play with.
I also ordered a new front bumper back in August that finally came in. an N-3 style that should allow for a little better fitting and air flow for the intercooler, oil cooler, and power steering cooler
Last edited by Rinzlark; Nov 26, 2022 at 09:50 AM.
Very nice work. Isn't 3D printing the best? Whole new level of possibilities.
What material is your bumper?
Love my 3D printer!
and the bumper is duraflex fiberglass, the finish is rough so it’s going to take a good bit of body work to make it look nice but I think it will be worth it
For those out there that are running the Link ecu for the 350z did you guys need a wideband for each bank or can it run off a single post turbo wideband?
For those out there that are running the Link ecu for the 350z did you guys need a wideband for each bank or can it run off a single post turbo wideband?
Everything I've read suggests it's fine to run a single WB but the dual will help you pick up any variation between the two banks. I'm running a Haltech WB2 over CAN.
11099177[/url]]Everything I've read suggests it's fine to run a single WB but the dual will help you pick up any variation between the two banks. I'm running a Haltech WB2 over CAN.
Yeah I just don’t want to be burning up O2 sensors putting them before the turbo
Thought this was on topic. I'm currently tuning in a 98 flex fuel map (tuned on E85) and when I started I turned off "Individual Cylinder Fuel Correction" to clear out any adjustments. This morning I decided to turn it back on as there's a clear difference between the two banks. You can see the before and after here:
That differential probably doesn't matter for my current power levels but I'd be more concerned if you was making 500+
Hmm yeah I’m going to have to be able to see what both sides are doing, at least getting the ecu setup and the tune dialed in. I was planning on waiting until the turbo gets installed to put the Link ecu in but it’s looking more and more like I’m going to need to get that setup and running first. I don’t want to end up in a situation where I have multiple areas to tackle if I have an issue with either the turbo or ecu install
Well it has been a significant amount of time since I posted anything project wise and a lot has happened, project has progressed, new parts have been made and purchased here and there so I have a lot to catch up on, first off a lot of this goes back several months and I’ll try and back track as best I can
This it the digital dash setup with the Aem gauges, I painted the center dash to match the exterior and suede wrapped the plastic surround for the display Replaced the rotting oem shift **** and boot with some goodie’s from Z1 Purchased a used set of Brembos off eBay for rebuilding Got them clean and blasted at work if I can ever get around to it I’ll powder coat them to match the engine and install stainless hardware Purchased an exhaust, nothing special just a knock off but it suits my purpose and I ceramic coated it Finally broke open the intercooler which was actually the first par I purchased for this project back in 2017 and have been sitting on it ever since, it’s huge, it has a diverter in the end tanks to spread the flow over the whole intercooler and barely fits under the crash bar but I plan to modify the crash bar to suit my needs I’m using HD clamps for the intercooler piping so I had to weld the ferals onto the ends Manifold mount test fit, I’m going to cutout a hole in the bracket and weld in a cooling channel to keep the bushing from melting it will run like the water cooling for the wastegates Picked up an aluminum chassis brace to replace the ugly oem one Waste gate merge to the down pipe Got the turbo mounted in place, I actually had to purchase the aluminum brace because I needed the extra clearance it gave due to the oem part having clearance issues with the turbo
Some pics of the down pipe
this is about where **** hit the fan in the worst way, while getting the turbo setup fabed out I had the Z on jack stands in the driveway as the garage was packed and it was easier to fab this way. In hindsight this was a mistake, for those who don’t know I live in Texas, the weather this spring has been quite crazy even for Texas. Well at about the end of May we got a very large hail storm… The storm came in quick and much more severe than forecasted, by the time I realized how bad it was going to get it was already hailing to bad to venture outside to try and cover the Z
Every panel has dents, tail lights are trashed front windshield is cracked, rear window is completely smashed, paint on the mirrors has spider cracked, both a pillars are cracked badly and a good bit of water made it’s way into the car with the rear window smashed and don’t even get me started on the hood, yeah insurance totaled it…
I of course bought it back.
now here is how I’m moving forward, I already had a spare HR hood in the garage so that’s taken care of, the doors and quarters aren’t too bad, the PDR guy at work has offered to push the dents on those. The fenders are cheap enough that I’m just going to replace them. the roof, a pillars and hatch are really to badly damaged to restore and paint has cracked and chipped. For the roof I’m going to push the dents the best I can and it will get an overlay, in fact I’m going back with carbon fiber parts and overlays for a good bit of it. A pillars and hatch are getting replaced with full on carbon fiber parts, mirrors and roof get overlays and I’ll probably do an overlay for the B pillars just to match but I’m undecided still. I have however decided to repaint the car, probably looking at a complete color change, something in the red-black spectrum with all the carbon fiber getting a red candy clear. I placed the order for all the parts back at the beginning of June and some of the parts being made to order and 20 business days out from order date should be arriving early to mid July, the carbon fiber hatch however came today, and in case you were wondering no I didn’t order a regular hatch, I got the AMS GT style tunnel hatch from VIS racing and it’s beautiful! I haven’t gotten it fully installed yet because the heat index for today was 114 so I just got it in place without the seals, latch, or shocks
I have a carbon fiber defused from a Ferrari 488 challenge car that I will modify for the Z and I’ll get the aftermarket front bumper fit before starting paint and body work, as for the tail lights I purchased the oem led models from the 06-08 years
sorry for dropping it all at once but I’ve been super busy with work and now the mess of rebuilding the car
Last edited by Rinzlark; Jun 28, 2023 at 03:33 PM.
I’d mostly be worried about the rear-quarter panels and the roof. The headliner comes out of the ceiling pretty easy and it’d provide amazing access to push the dents out from the inside of the car.