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Hmm 🤔 well I haven’t modified the dwelling timing in the tune it should be the same as stock.
also I measured the power at coil trigger to ground with the ignition power on and I’m reading 0.54v on trigger wire at all times for all coils is that normal?
I’m reading 0.54v on trigger wire at all times for all coils
I went through a couple threads about coils melting and from what I’m reading any voltage higher that .1-.2 can trigger the coil. I’m not sure why I have power on the trigger wires at all times. This is what I have checked so far 1) shorts between power and ground, 2) ecu ground connections at pins 115 & 116 3) resistance between coil trigger and power and ground. None of those led me to any answer. This is what I’m thinking 1) there is another ground somewhere on the ecu that isn’t right, 2) I damaged the ecu when doing the wire tuck on the previous harness 3) there is some subtle differences about the 2006 auto harness that I’m not aware of
what I plan to do going forward, 1) review wiring schematics and find and test and grounds on the harness and ecu (I think pin 1 on ecu is also a ground so I’ll check that first) 2) open up the ecu and test the diodes of the ignition circuit for proper operation 3) if all else fails get 6 diodes with a forward voltage of 1 or equivalent and put them in line to the coil packs probably a 1N5400 4) a new ecu or standalone is also on the table but I would really like to verify it’s not the harness before I do anything with new parts or equipment
im also probably going to switch to the R8 coils at this point, I’m down 4 oem coils while I already have 6 R8 coils and adapter plugs for a no cut adaptation also the R8 coils can be replaced for around 16 each. I did have one R8 coil in place during startup because the oem coils don’t fit on cylinder 1 of the pathfinder valve covers and it didn’t even flinch while the other coils were burning up, didn’t even get hot
Pin 1 of ecu is also a ground but is properly connected as it should be. At this point I’m starting to lean towards the ecu getting damaged from the wiring tuck. I have diodes coming tomorrow and I look at the trigger voltage at the connectors when they are in place. If that does indeed drop the voltage down to 0 off trigger I might try to turn it over again with the R8 coils. Who knows this might be the excuse I need to get a link G4 stand alone but like I said in my previous post I’m hesitant to go that direction before I figure out what’s happened
Pics of coil adapter stuff
Did you install the OEM / non-molested engine bay harness?
I would get back to square one with the OEM engine bay harness and OEM coils and go from there ... you have too many things that could be wrong and you're chasing every direction and many culprits ...
unmolested harness and oem coils resulted in burning 4 coils to the point of literally smoking. The one R8 coil that was in place was unaffected by the constant .54v that for what ever reason is present when ever ignition power is applied. I’ve checked and checked wiring again and again on this harness and I’m done messing with it I’m looking at the ecu at this point
unmolested harness and oem coils resulted in burning 4 coils to the point of literally smoking. The one R8 coil that was in place was unaffected by the constant .54v that for what ever reason is present when ever ignition power is applied. I’ve checked and checked wiring again and again on this harness and I’m done messing with it I’m looking at the ecu at this point
What was the pins you tested? Ill double check mine tonight to give a second set of eyes
unmolested harness and oem coils resulted in burning 4 coils to the point of literally smoking. The one R8 coil that was in place was unaffected by the constant .54v that for what ever reason is present when ever ignition power is applied. I’ve checked and checked wiring again and again on this harness and I’m done messing with it I’m looking at the ecu at this point
Start there ... it will not get less complicated than straight OEM parts ... you start mixing in your own built harness and R8 coils you're asking for prolonged trouble shooting ... Think KISS methodology here...
Start there ... it will not get less complicated than straight OEM parts ... you start mixing in your own built harness and R8 coils you're asking for prolonged trouble shooting ... Think KISS methodology here...
The issue seams to be .5v on ignition trigger for the coils at all times the ignition is on this is measured with all coils disconnected from the harness
as for my measurements I took two sets one with the ignition off and again with the ignition on both with no coils connected to the harness
with ignition off
V between power and ground on connectors is 0.00V
V between coil trigger and ground on connectors 0.00V
with ignition on
V between power and ground on connectors is 12.64V
V between coil trigger and ground on connectors 0.56V +- .03 variance between connectors
other information
R between connector ground and Battery - 0 ohm
R between connectors ground and trigger no connectivity with power off
Battery Voltage 13.89V
No continuity between trigger wires on the connectors
0 ohm's of resistance between connector power wires
0 ohm's or resistance between connector ground wires
I know this is crazy, but make 1000% positive you have OEM Hatichi coils to troubleshoot....If I recall correctly people had trouble with non OEM coils burning up.
I know this is crazy, but make 1000% positive you have OEM Hatichi coils to troubleshoot....If I recall correctly people had trouble with non OEM coils burning up.
they were the OEM coils from the factory minus one that was Hatichi
I think I finally figured out the problem, “fingers crossed” so I’ve been reading a lot of threads on using the diodes and some people were saying to try and run a ground from the ecu grounding point directly to the battery before trying the diodes. And I thought well I have a cable of that length why not just try it. So I did, and now I don’t have lingering voltage on the coil trigger when the ignition is on. It’s kind of irritating because I specifically left that ground alone, never even unbolted it since it has its own connector to the harness. I’m guessing I had some sort of ground loop 🤷♂️ I’ll get the car bolted back together and let you guys know how it goes
Car starts and stays running, no blown fuses but a p0302 for cylinder 2 and a little rough at idle, Im going to swap coils and check spark plugs and see if i cant get it working right
Swapped coils for cylinder 1&2 but the problem stayed at cylinder 2. Also getting the dreaded p1111 and p1136 codes as pending 😱
spark plug on cylinder 2 was fouled badly, cleaned it with brake cleaner and cotton swabs and reinstalled it. Also decided tonight that I need to add a fuel check valve to the fuel system so I don’t have to wait for it to pressurize before starting. Pulled apart several connectors and applied dielectric grease to them still haven’t tried to start it since I did that and cleaned the spark plug but I’ll try again tomorrow
