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11047632]oh yea... the tri-pod cluster is not part of the ECU wiring ... I dont think the EUC and those gauges share information between each other.
I'd still revert back to the OEM harness and figure out why it's burning up coils ... that may be your issue overall?
I swapped back to an oem harness and solved the coil burning problem which was a ground loop issue with ecu any other things you think I should check on?
So was I , It scared the **** out of me, But it was not bad, and so Much Worth it........ Do it!
I took a Software Course on HP Academy. It's very helpful, plus they have lots of other videos to help you.
The Hook up is Easy, it's Plug & Play fo the most part. It uses a MAP sensor, but you keep the MAF for the AIT's
For the Wide band you use an Extension cable that plugs right in to the ECU, and Delete all 4 stock narrow band o2's
For your Fuel Pumps it's easy. There are a few optional wires to tape into for that.
So go for it! It works Awesome......
Originally Posted by Rinzlark
Man you guys make me jealous with your fancy stand alone ecu, I really want a G4 but I’m nervous about setting it up and tuning it.
So was I , It scared the **** out of me, But it was not bad, and so Much Worth it........ Do it!
I took a Software Course on HP Academy. It's very helpful, plus they have lots of other videos to help you.
The Hook up is Easy, it's Plug & Play fo the most part. It uses a MAP sensor, but you keep the MAF for the AIT's
For the Wide band you use an Extension cable that plugs right in to the ECU, and Delete all 4 stock narrow band o2's
For your Fuel Pumps it's easy. There are a few optional wires to tape into for that.
So go for it! It works Awesome......
Can I retain the front o2 sensors or do you have to have a wideband input?
never mind I read through the features list and its not compatible with the factory widebands, which leads me to my next question, what are you guys doing for widebands? are you running dual, single what brand etc
+1 for HPA I'm running through a few of their tuning courses, I see they have a tutorial for the link g4 software. Ill have to look at that when i get the practical course for standalone tuning
Double checked continuity between the ECU and the coil plug and that’s good. Setup the oscilloscope to read signal and I’m definitely getting a good signal. I had the #2 coil unplugged during the test, She idles exactly the same with cylinder number two completely unplugged versus plugged in. I’ve swapped coils, changed plugs, done a compression test, checked signal and grounds what else could I possibly do? Reading from coil trigger wire and coil ground
never mind I read through the features list and its not compatible with the factory widebands, which leads me to my next question, what are you guys doing for widebands? are you running dual, single what brand etc
+1 for HPA I'm running through a few of their tuning courses, I see they have a tutorial for the link g4 software. Ill have to look at that when i get the practical course for standalone tuning
personally if you are only running one wideband on any V engine you are only getting half the information. You would be surprised how much of a variation can be between banks.
So was I , It scared the **** out of me, But it was not bad, and so Much Worth it........ Do it!
I took a Software Course on HP Academy. It's very helpful, plus they have lots of other videos to help you.
The Hook up is Easy, it's Plug & Play fo the most part. It uses a MAP sensor, but you keep the MAF for the AIT's
For the Wide band you use an Extension cable that plugs right in to the ECU, and Delete all 4 stock narrow band o2's
For your Fuel Pumps it's easy. There are a few optional wires to tape into for that.
So go for it! It works Awesome......
I did quite a bit on HPA as well ... they're a great resource. Further, the Link Forum is very good too ... not wildly wildly active but they have a few members that are great help if you have a few days to get your question answered.
Using the PC Link Software is will take you a few interactions to learn the layout but is logically laid out and once you 'get' how link does their tables, settings, menus, features, etc it's pretty nice ... it is different than haltech and uprev ... 'Haltech : Mac' as 'Link : PC'. You can download PC Link for free and check the software out.
I thought hook up was pretty easy and I had to wire in a handful of inputs / outputs. I used their customer service chat feature to verify everything I needed and got their input too. I deleted the MAF and installed a GM IAT sensor and it's worked very well.
It was pretty straight forward (and not that I'm a genius or electronics expert) if you can read a pin table and can connect signal wires, can conceptualize which wires get 5volts and which get 12volts than you'll be fine. I havent gotten into CAN comm yet (probably wont tbh).
Originally Posted by Rinzlark
Can I retain the front o2 sensors or do you have to have a wideband input?
You could if you put them on the CAN Bus (I believe) but it's easier to use an aftermarket controller.
Originally Posted by Rinzlark
never mind I read through the features list and its not compatible with the factory widebands, which leads me to my next question, what are you guys doing for widebands? are you running dual, single what brand etc
+1 for HPA I'm running through a few of their tuning courses, I see they have a tutorial for the link g4 software. Ill have to look at that when i get the practical course for standalone tuning
I run AEM Bosche LSU 4.2 widebands ... heard many bad things about the 4.9s. I run the sensor to the gauge on my dash and then a 0-5v output wire to the Link. I actually run two widebands but the Link only uses the one sensor for closed loop fuel control.
Originally Posted by Conway_160
personally if you are only running one wideband on any V engine you are only getting half the information. You would be surprised how much of a variation can be between banks.
This is true ... I tend to think that you're simply getting an average of all six cylinders or dual sets of three cylinders.
I tend not to freak out about o2 wideband control and yeild on the side of caution / target a slightly richer AFR in areas of the map that are seeing high boost. A precisely tuned ignition map will have more impact on power and longevity of your engine.
This is true ... I tend to think that you're simply getting an average of all six cylinders or dual sets of three cylinders.
I tend not to freak out about o2 wideband control and yeild on the side of caution / target a slightly richer AFR in areas of the map that are seeing high boost. A precisely tuned ignition map will have more impact on power and longevity of your engine.
When I had my Procharger with the OEM plenum before I was seeing almost 2 AFR points differences between left and right banks. It was scary. All I needed was one back to be reading 11.8 and other 13.8.
If the one wideband was in the Y after the two merge that is not a big big deal but, if you are only pulling from one side before the merge that is no bueno!
I purchased a link g4x, I had some money set aside for future mods and I think this is ultimately where I would have ended up anyway. I don’t plan on installing it right away I want to try and get the car running on the oem ecu first. I’m taking 5 classes on HPA now and once I’m comfortable with those I’ll move onto the stand alone, link tutorial, wiring basics, and club wiring courses. I also still need to buy widebands that have a 5v out, my old glowshift one doesn’t have the output and I would rather upgrade to the more rugged AEM X series than upgrade the controller. FedEx should deliver the link g4x tomorrow
as for the current issues with the car, I reset the ecu and cleared the codes. The codes for the cam solenoids haven’t come back yet, misfire on cylinder 2 seams to only be a problem at idle, I’ve taken the manifold off so many times it could be a leaking manifold gasket as they are usually one time use. I ordered another and it comes in Tuesday.
Went to the junkyard today to get some extra coils and an ecu backing plate for the G4, I don’t want to tear apart my oem ecu just for a mounting bracket. Played around with de-pining connectors, it’s interesting how many connectors use the same type of pins and seals
04-07-2021, 04:01 PM
