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Question for the group; has anyone attempted something like this in their stock bumper? Excuse the shitty photoshop- it's just to illustrate the concept.
The reason I'm entertaining it is my oil cooler is tucked away behind there and I'm concerned it's not getting enough air flow to hold up on a hot track day. The easier route (other than to just buy a different bumper) would be to build out a splitter between the PS cooler and the aluminium panel you can see in picture, to channel more air to the left. I'm sure that would help quite a bit, but the air is still having to do a hard left then hard right to pass through the cooler. A duct like this would allow direct air to the cooler with an easier path through too.
If I do it, it will be 3D printed with curved edges and all that. If anyone's curious I used poly scan to make the 3D scan above using my phone. Actually turned out really well.
Consider adding a puller fan to your cooler. I have my 25 row cooler in the same place on my chargespeed bumper, but it doesn't get direct airflow. I added a spal puller fan on a switch and cut out some additional slots in the fender liner to get the heat out. Works like a charm.
@RENFRO It'd crossed my mind but I'm not even sure I've got the requisite space behind it for even a shallow fan. With the placement of my washer bottle it's very tight on one side.
Factor that getting passive airflow in is only half the battle - You will need to channel heat-saturated air out of the engine bay/compartment as well. If it is placed directly in-front of a wheel liner than it doesnt matter how much airflow you get to it you need as much airflow out in order for it to be productive.
I'm running 19 x 9.5 +23 on the front and 19 x 10.5 +22 on the rear. I bought them off a guy that had them on an R35. I think they're perfect in terms of fitment (only a couple of mils off flush) BUT they do rub on the rears with a decent bump. I'll either roll or trim the rear arches eventually.
I plan on picking up a set of 18 inch wheels/tyres for the track and with that setup I'll probably eliminate the rubbing anyway.
Definitely plans for cosmetic over time. I've got a PU front lip I want to install soon and a ducktail spoiler I've had around aside for 6 months or more. I reckon I'll have a crack at wrapping this year too.
I'm part way through the tear down of my cheap DE. It's clearly lead a hard life with infrequent oil changes. The oil was drained before I bought it but I still found a little forbidden glitter in the lower pan.
The cam journals look pretty terrible with grooves you can feel with a fingernail. Cams look the same but I was planning on ditching those anyway. I'll have a word to my machinist about whether the heads can be salvaged with a polish but worst case I'll use my current heads.
I was reaaally hoping to get another set of usable lifter buckets but they all look like this. What's the consensus on using 'worn' buckets?
After seeing the condition of the cams, I was very surprised to see the condition of the cylinder walls. Any of the vertical or horizontal marks you can see can't be felt with a finger nail, other than the carbon build up of course. I was planning on boring the cylinders anyway so there was always some wiggle room.
That said, I haven't seen the crank yet. I'm crossing my fingers it's salvageable. I was really hoping for at least the block, crank and buckets. Heads were a bonus for the price but they'll probably be scrapped.
A drag day came up at a 'local' track (Calder Park) on short notice so I took the Z for a blast. Going in I expected the performance potential was mid-12s. The best I managed on the day was 13.002 after 4 runs, but that was all me. First run I couldn't get it into third. Runs 2-4 I struggled to keep traction on the launch (just me feeding too much power), including dusting my clutch briefly on one of them. The 13.002 was on run 3. Even on my Kumho road tires there is an easy mid to low 12 with a good run.
I checked the logs and I was hitting up to 10.5psi boost at just over 6000rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears.
A lot of fun though and I'll go back for sure.
I've got some footage but I have to go through it and see what I can use before I can upload. It was a comedy of errors on a day that I thought I was prepared. Left my drinking water, gopro mic and later realised the sodding SD card for the gopro at home. Used my phone (which takes great footage) but a bit awkward to manage.
This is just my two cents, with your supercharger if you have the fuel let that supercharger sing. HP is not what breaks the engine, its low end torque.
With that supercharger you can crank the boost and more than likely hit 450-460whp and still only be around 380-390wtq which is completely fine with a good tune.
You're probably right, Conway. My biggest issue for pushing it further was my tuner's dyno is a heap of **** by today's standards. Perfectly fine to tune AFRs and get a power readout by road speed, but that's it. No RPM readout and torque is in "Tractive Effort (N)"?! He admitted it's a problem and they're hoping to replace it in the next 12 months or so, but I'll probably end up having to go elsewhere once the engine is built.
In the meantime I'm on the lookout for a dyno day to get a good readout of power/torque now.
It's soo bloody tempting to just pull the restrictor and see where we land. Maybe when I've got a better idea of when I can finish the engine build in case I need to swap it out. Might make for some good 'Tube content
You're probably right, Conway. My biggest issue for pushing it further was my tuner's dyno is a heap of **** by today's standards. Perfectly fine to tune AFRs and get a power readout by road speed, but that's it. No RPM readout and torque is in "Tractive Effort (N)"?! He admitted it's a problem and they're hoping to replace it in the next 12 months or so, but I'll probably end up having to go elsewhere once the engine is built.
In the meantime I'm on the lookout for a dyno day to get a good readout of power/torque now.
It's soo bloody tempting to just pull the restrictor and see where we land. Maybe when I've got a better idea of when I can finish the engine build in case I need to swap it out. Might make for some good 'Tube content
Crazy it can't read torque but can read HP. HP is a function torque and RPM. Pull the restrictor and give do incremental pulls 1K at a time up to redline, make sure you are watching AFR's and Boost. If your under 15psi you "SHOULD" be good. I'd imagine with that small blower 15psi should be roughly 430-4401ish whp.
@Conway_160 Power/torque would be derived from its own mechanical internals. Ie. forces of speed/resistance the car transfers to the roller- hence by road speed. I guess they don't have the capability on their equipment to calibrate engine RPM to apply to their power/torque figures.
@bealljk I forgot to say after my last tune in Oct, you were warranted to question the low fuel pressure setting. We ended up maxing out the table (150 VE) right at the top end. The whole table will have to be re-tuned after adjusting the fuel pressure if/when I want to push harder.
Also, I'm pretty stoked I managed to pick up a Cusco strut brace for $150 AUD, used of course. I was considering putting the Motordyne spacer back in because with the angled spacer I couldn't fit the standard brace at all. Clearing the plenum with multiple washers meant it was too close to the hood. With the Cusco I'm just using the Motordyne spacers.
Hey guys, finally finished my 2006 G35 Coupe build with the same HKS supercharger setup as Timboj. It was a real headache fitting it in there, mainly due to differences in space under the crash bar, no holes in the radiator support structure to mount the intercooler completely, no gap for one of the intake tubes, and a few other fitment issues. After plenty of dremeling, custom marrying some original and provides power steering hoses, and some simple fabrication of aluminum bars for some intercooler/power steeling cooler mounting brackets, I managed to just BARELY fit everything in there. I had the car dyno tuned right off at the beginning with the higher boost pulley, no restrictor, and E85, but the MAF maxed out and my tuner decided to limit the car to 5500rpm at risk of leaning out. On that initial tune it was making 440whp.
A few weeks later an UpRev MAF GT was installed and the car was retuned, making 478whp and 400wtq on the Dyno Dynamics dyno. Hoping these numbers are informative for others looking to complete similar builds like I know Timboj is doing.
01-06-2023, 08:18 PM
