HKS supercharger build
#121
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Basically done. The only thing stopping me from firing it up is the catch can... Well, I could just ignore it for the sake of getting it running but I'd have to take the intake off again to hook it all up, so I'll wait til next weekend...
First photo is for Dark. That's the stock filler joining up with the silicone hose,
I had some spare heat tape lying around so I gave the washer/pumps some protection. I'll monitor it for a while, but I'm sure this is overkill. Didn't take long so I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Took the angle grinder to this section of the bung weld to give the coupler a little more room to move up as it was pinching a little.
And this is the air guide. It's thin and flimsy material but it's sturdy in the right places. I can always replace it with thicker material later now that I've got the shape right.
That's it. Traction oil in, all hoses and pipes are connected (except catch can and intake) and my ECU settings ready to go. Can't wait.
First photo is for Dark. That's the stock filler joining up with the silicone hose,
I had some spare heat tape lying around so I gave the washer/pumps some protection. I'll monitor it for a while, but I'm sure this is overkill. Didn't take long so I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Took the angle grinder to this section of the bung weld to give the coupler a little more room to move up as it was pinching a little.
And this is the air guide. It's thin and flimsy material but it's sturdy in the right places. I can always replace it with thicker material later now that I've got the shape right.
That's it. Traction oil in, all hoses and pipes are connected (except catch can and intake) and my ECU settings ready to go. Can't wait.
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#122
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Nice!
I suspect that will be a huge help … (I say this in the most positive / happy / non-hating way) I dont know that the tape will be enough. I say this because you are going to be hitting that reservoir (essentially) with 220degree hot air as long as the car is driving and I speculate the tape will heat-soak.
I say this because my battery is right behind my radiator and the battery gets hit with hot air quite bit and is hot to the touch (almost too hot to touch) after I run the car.
If I were in your shoes - I would keep it exactly how you have it and run the car and see how it does ‘real world’ - if you have to relocate it or put some sort of different insulation or heat sheid you can.
Otherwise things look great!
I suspect that will be a huge help … (I say this in the most positive / happy / non-hating way) I dont know that the tape will be enough. I say this because you are going to be hitting that reservoir (essentially) with 220degree hot air as long as the car is driving and I speculate the tape will heat-soak.
I say this because my battery is right behind my radiator and the battery gets hit with hot air quite bit and is hot to the touch (almost too hot to touch) after I run the car.
If I were in your shoes - I would keep it exactly how you have it and run the car and see how it does ‘real world’ - if you have to relocate it or put some sort of different insulation or heat sheid you can.
Otherwise things look great!
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Timboj (08-14-2022)
#123
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Looking good, thanks for that pic. Our locations vary just a tiny bit (maybe an inch or less) so I'm sure I can make it work.
I have actually given the cooler situation a little thought, maybe install the oil cooler horizontal in the spot you have the PS cooler and vertical mount the PS cooler in front of the washer tank. I also want to incorporate these somehow.
I have actually given the cooler situation a little thought, maybe install the oil cooler horizontal in the spot you have the PS cooler and vertical mount the PS cooler in front of the washer tank. I also want to incorporate these somehow.
#124
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Thread Starter
Nice!
I suspect that will be a huge help … (I say this in the most positive / happy / non-hating way) I dont know that the tape will be enough. I say this because you are going to be hitting that reservoir (essentially) with 220degree hot air as long as the car is driving and I speculate the tape will heat-soak.
I say this because my battery is right behind my radiator and the battery gets hit with hot air quite bit and is hot to the touch (almost too hot to touch) after I run the car.
If I were in your shoes - I would keep it exactly how you have it and run the car and see how it does ‘real world’ - if you have to relocate it or put some sort of different insulation or heat sheid you can.
Otherwise things look great!
I suspect that will be a huge help … (I say this in the most positive / happy / non-hating way) I dont know that the tape will be enough. I say this because you are going to be hitting that reservoir (essentially) with 220degree hot air as long as the car is driving and I speculate the tape will heat-soak.
I say this because my battery is right behind my radiator and the battery gets hit with hot air quite bit and is hot to the touch (almost too hot to touch) after I run the car.
If I were in your shoes - I would keep it exactly how you have it and run the car and see how it does ‘real world’ - if you have to relocate it or put some sort of different insulation or heat sheid you can.
Otherwise things look great!
I was thinking that cooler would have to be 100% efficient to shift 100C from the oil to the surrounding air, which they aren't, so it'll be somewhere between ambient and 100C. On a 40 degree day that'll still be at least 60 which I agree is already getting pretty warm. I've got plenty of aluminium sheet left over so we'll see.
I'm going to put a thermometer there and monitor. There'll be plenty of safe time while I'm tuning.
That might work, Dark. Keen to see your results. How many rows is your cooler?
Also, I'll need to keep my reflectors capped. Air would just go in the grill and blow straight out the side in my current config
#125
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Thread Starter
The saga continues... Ordered a flex fuel sensor. I'd intended on installing one eventually, but was just going to run on E85 for a while so didn't think it would be necessary. It's still not necessary, but it'll help the tuner know exactly what he's working with at the time and we can put in some basic scaling as a precaution in case I get some lower grade "E85". Hell, we might as well do the multi-fuel tune.
It looks like I've still got plenty of space behind the plenum to mount it to the firewall, so it'll sit between the rail return and fuel pressure regulator- I just need a few push lock fittings. I've still got a spare wire from when I pulled the grommet apart so signal/ground are covered. Just need a switched 12V source.
Also ordered a couple of 02 bung blanks to replace my secondary 02 sensors which are doing absolutely nothing now (primaries have Haltech WBs).
It looks like I've still got plenty of space behind the plenum to mount it to the firewall, so it'll sit between the rail return and fuel pressure regulator- I just need a few push lock fittings. I've still got a spare wire from when I pulled the grommet apart so signal/ground are covered. Just need a switched 12V source.
Also ordered a couple of 02 bung blanks to replace my secondary 02 sensors which are doing absolutely nothing now (primaries have Haltech WBs).
#126
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I don't have one yet as I'm on hold for a while, but was planning on getting a 13 row maybe?
I have a longer nose so I definitely have room to play around with, but one thing I want to look into is a Greddy oil filter relocation kit, otherwise my oil pan would get covered in oil every time it's changed.
I have a longer nose so I definitely have room to play around with, but one thing I want to look into is a Greddy oil filter relocation kit, otherwise my oil pan would get covered in oil every time it's changed.
#127
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Thread Starter
I went 25 row and I'm pretty sure you could get it to fit (inlet/outlet on either side of the crash bar support) with what you'd suggested. If you use the bottom of the crash bar as a reference, the intercooler would actually go lower so there's plenty of room.
What bumper are you running btw?
I bought a Z1 undertray a while back. They're a bit of a pain to install/remove when you do the whole thing, but just oil changes are a breeze.
Also, I've printed out that part. PM me your deets and I'll get it sent.
What bumper are you running btw?
I bought a Z1 undertray a while back. They're a bit of a pain to install/remove when you do the whole thing, but just oil changes are a breeze.
Also, I've printed out that part. PM me your deets and I'll get it sent.
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#129
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Thread Starter
@DarkZ03 So much room for (cooling) activities!
Update... Fired up and idling nicely now. Actually it's idling better than it did when it was NA.
Reset fuel pressure (43.5psi no vacuum), dialed in the fuel table (just around the idle cells) and then the idle position table then it was spot on. The rest of the fuel table is going to take a while to road tune because lambda target is laughably out, but thanks to E85... no knock yet. That and super conservative ignition timing. And low boost. Anyway....
IATs are staying low (proper CAI) as they should for 17C ambient, but there's still a fair bit of heat soak from the headers. I'm definitely going to wrap the intake pipe in gold tape, but I really need a heat shield on the headers. That'll have to wait for when it gets a full rebuild.
VVT is still out with the new phasers so PID tuning is the only solution now.
The poor missus and neighbours are going to have to deal with a bit of garage tuning for the next couple of weeks
Update... Fired up and idling nicely now. Actually it's idling better than it did when it was NA.
Reset fuel pressure (43.5psi no vacuum), dialed in the fuel table (just around the idle cells) and then the idle position table then it was spot on. The rest of the fuel table is going to take a while to road tune because lambda target is laughably out, but thanks to E85... no knock yet. That and super conservative ignition timing. And low boost. Anyway....
IATs are staying low (proper CAI) as they should for 17C ambient, but there's still a fair bit of heat soak from the headers. I'm definitely going to wrap the intake pipe in gold tape, but I really need a heat shield on the headers. That'll have to wait for when it gets a full rebuild.
VVT is still out with the new phasers so PID tuning is the only solution now.
The poor missus and neighbours are going to have to deal with a bit of garage tuning for the next couple of weeks
Last edited by Timboj; 08-15-2022 at 12:23 AM.
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#130
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NICE! Not kidding on the headers, I knew it was getting hot, but I found its deteriorating the reflective heat sleeve on my A/C line and wideband harnesses. I need something more robust for the meantime, when the time comes I'll get the headers coated and create a shield for the top of them.
Last edited by DarkZ03; 08-15-2022 at 01:10 AM.
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Timboj (08-15-2022)
#131
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Why 43.5psi of fuel pressure? Isnt 52psi stock?
What are your timing tables looking like?
What are your timing tables looking like?
#132
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Thread Starter
Everything I've read suggested it doesn't really matter on a low boost regulated return system (with much larger injectors). 43.5psi/300kPa is widely used across many configurations. Also meant that I could just plug in ID's dead time figures for 300kPa. Next jump was 58psi/400kPa. I know I could just adjust them proportionally but didn't see the need.
Once I hand it over to my tuner it doesn't matter anyway. Happy to go with whatever he suggests. This is just to make the drive mine to his.
I've flattened the whole table out to 15 degrees until it's dynoed. Idle ignition timing is doing its thing and dropping it back a touch to 7-8 degrees...
Update: Just spoke to my tuner. He's happy with 300kPa. ECU knows fuel pressure is MAP referenced at 300kPa so it's covered in the model too. The other reason I reached out was the VVT. He's convinced it's not a blockage based on behaviour- needs feed tables and/or PID tuned to match target. Fingers crossed that's how it plays out!
Once I hand it over to my tuner it doesn't matter anyway. Happy to go with whatever he suggests. This is just to make the drive mine to his.
I've flattened the whole table out to 15 degrees until it's dynoed. Idle ignition timing is doing its thing and dropping it back a touch to 7-8 degrees...
Update: Just spoke to my tuner. He's happy with 300kPa. ECU knows fuel pressure is MAP referenced at 300kPa so it's covered in the model too. The other reason I reached out was the VVT. He's convinced it's not a blockage based on behaviour- needs feed tables and/or PID tuned to match target. Fingers crossed that's how it plays out!
Last edited by Timboj; 08-15-2022 at 06:19 PM.
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bealljk (08-16-2022)
#133
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I agree - I think 43.5 is the industry standard and I dont know why nissan uses 52psi??
Cool on timing - yea looks safe for sure -
Cool on timing - yea looks safe for sure -
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Timboj (08-16-2022)
#134
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I'll start getting some videos together as the tuning improves...
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#135
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So of course there's always some kind of bug to iron out but I'm really scratching my head on this one. I was hoping to be able to diagnose without removing the SC, but I'm running out of ideas.
I'm getting a pretty serious oil leak on the left bank (US driver) which initially I thought was due to a dodgy job I did on the upper oil pan RTV. I realised after I'd put everything back together that I went on the wrong side of the bolts at the front that are inside the case. That said, it's not been an issue the whole time it was NA, but neither had I noticed any oil leakage so this is new regardless. Natural assumption was increase crank case pressure was causing it to blow out. BUT you can see in these photos oil is found much higher than that position so it was either a) explosive leakage to make it that high OR b) it's coming from higher up.
I didn't get a photo but I could see oil has dripped from the top of the AC compressor down the back and side to where it's pooled there.
That's engine oil underneath the first header bolt...
Heater pipe bracket
I checked the VTC solenoid- dry. I used a wifi scope to get down beside the valve cover and while it wasn't conclusive (images are pretty grainy, like photo above), I don't think it's the valve cover gasket (brand new and used a little RTV up front). So, I THINK it's blow by from the dipstick channel. Is that a thing?!
The last test was after I drilled out the PCV so it's free flowing (tested before and after - no difference). The catch can is all routed properly so there should be negative pressure on the vent hoses, especially under boost.
I'm considering unbolting the AC to get a better look at the block because at this stage that will probably be easier than removing the SC, even though I may still have to do that.
Update: I managed to move the AC forward a little to get a better view and it's definitely coming from the top of the head somewhere, but I couldn't quite make out whether it was coming from the dipstick or the valve cover. I also forgot some important details:
I'm getting a pretty serious oil leak on the left bank (US driver) which initially I thought was due to a dodgy job I did on the upper oil pan RTV. I realised after I'd put everything back together that I went on the wrong side of the bolts at the front that are inside the case. That said, it's not been an issue the whole time it was NA, but neither had I noticed any oil leakage so this is new regardless. Natural assumption was increase crank case pressure was causing it to blow out. BUT you can see in these photos oil is found much higher than that position so it was either a) explosive leakage to make it that high OR b) it's coming from higher up.
I didn't get a photo but I could see oil has dripped from the top of the AC compressor down the back and side to where it's pooled there.
That's engine oil underneath the first header bolt...
Heater pipe bracket
I checked the VTC solenoid- dry. I used a wifi scope to get down beside the valve cover and while it wasn't conclusive (images are pretty grainy, like photo above), I don't think it's the valve cover gasket (brand new and used a little RTV up front). So, I THINK it's blow by from the dipstick channel. Is that a thing?!
The last test was after I drilled out the PCV so it's free flowing (tested before and after - no difference). The catch can is all routed properly so there should be negative pressure on the vent hoses, especially under boost.
I'm considering unbolting the AC to get a better look at the block because at this stage that will probably be easier than removing the SC, even though I may still have to do that.
Update: I managed to move the AC forward a little to get a better view and it's definitely coming from the top of the head somewhere, but I couldn't quite make out whether it was coming from the dipstick or the valve cover. I also forgot some important details:
- This is not happening at idle. I can leave it idling for ages and not have new spillage. Given that it's only happening under load/higher rpm, it's either increased case pressure and/or increased oil flow.
- The closest valve cover bolt was properly torqued and still tight. Even if it wasn't, I don't think the volume of oil that was coming out would be possible there
- I strapped a GoPro under the car on the previous test to confirm if there was any 'spray' around the upper oil pan. There wasn't, and even though the light wasn't great, it still captured dribbling and the odd drop that would have come from around the AC compressor
Last edited by Timboj; 08-22-2022 at 10:18 PM.
#136
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I'd bet it blew out of your dipstick. Same problem I had when I went boost recently and oil in nearly the same locations. Ended up switching everything to -10 lines for my catch can and adding a valve cover breather here https://www.c-f-m.com/performancepar...Z-768p1663.htm
#137
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Thread Starter
Mate, I noticed the breather on one of your last vids and ordered one yesterday!
What's your catch can config?
What's your catch can config?
#138
Check for any oil around the spark plugs/coil packs. Could also be a leaking seal there. If it's coming out the dipstick, that's a lot of crank pressure. Try placing some bits of rag in different spots (after cleaning the area) to see if you can find the source by which one gets wet.
Double check all your vacuum lines to make sure one isn't still accidentally hooked up so it sees boost, that could pressurise your crank (been there).
Double check all your vacuum lines to make sure one isn't still accidentally hooked up so it sees boost, that could pressurise your crank (been there).
#140
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Thread Starter
Check for any oil around the spark plugs/coil packs. Could also be a leaking seal there. If it's coming out the dipstick, that's a lot of crank pressure. Try placing some bits of rag in different spots (after cleaning the area) to see if you can find the source by which one gets wet.
Double check all your vacuum lines to make sure one isn't still accidentally hooked up so it sees boost, that could pressurise your crank (been there).
Double check all your vacuum lines to make sure one isn't still accidentally hooked up so it sees boost, that could pressurise your crank (been there).
At this stage I'm 90% sure it's because I restricted the 10AN line so I'm going to do a run with it disconnected so it can vent to atmosphere.
In terms of fixing this... I'm either going to just vent the right bank (PCV) to atmosphere with a filter and buy a 10AN banjo to connect the left bank to the catch can (which will still be routed back to the SC) OR the more expensive route is buy a 10AN banjo, 10AN Y fitting and 10AN to 6AN reducer (for the right bank) and then it's a complete system... I'll do some testing before I commit to anything.
Last edited by Timboj; 08-23-2022 at 03:32 PM.