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On the Z1 site you can see a question I asked a few years ago about what pulley they used. They used the 110mm pulley to make 427whp and it looks like it made around 11-12psi. However, it also made about 380wtq, which is a good safe spot, especially with a supercharger.
I think you'd likely be fine with the 100mm pulley and restrictor, but worth keeping timing pulled back a bit to keep things in check. Either way, swapping to the 110mm if needed wouldn't be a big deal.
Really love this kit and have been wanting to get an 03-04 convertible to put this kit on it. Some coils and wheels about 400hp would be perfection.
I may have been the one to ask that question, I figured if they were on the 100 then I needed extra work to hit 500whp, but it shouldn't be as hard since it's only 73hp and they were on 110 pulley
Yeah, I really want to understand boost potential with this kit so I'm keen to see the results.
Remember HKS are only claiming 500hp at the motor with the 100mm and mods but I assume big cams, higher CR and ethanol should be an easy 500whp.
I'm still not convinced the 427 was whp. It may have been calculated engine hp and they didn't pick up on it in the question. 12psi of boost might be enough though?
The two indicators for me are the ~260kw (at engine) line in the HKS graph and Coz at CZP said they only got 350whp out of a stock DE on the 110mm pulley. There are all sorts of factors that could contribute to any one of these figures so it's all pretty inconclusive.
I also found this, I don't know if it's the same blower and it's not on a Z but reference only, and the 110mm pulley was around 8ish psi at our redline
Yup, no problem. I'm curious how this all interacts cause in the universal kit they say boost is a ratio/pulley/rpm thing but don't talk about the restrictor.
I guess technically if your boost is too high for comfort you can just not rev so high, kinda wierd but thats how boost works on these things.
I wish HKS had a chart like that for the Z, it would make it easier to figure out, but from a few min search that chart is in the ball park number wise because 12 psi seems to be in the range of 500hp for the DE.
Interesting. HKS USA have updated their graph to point out that the green line is actually the 110mm pulley with the restrictor, where previously it only referenced "48". I thought maybe t was the 100mm + restrictor, but it was anyone's guess.
Z1 still has the old graph for reference.
I'm still really dubious about Z1's claim of 427whp with the 110mm pulley, and from what I understand, otherwise stock DE. 427whp is pretty close to 500 crank hp (~490hp with 15% drivetrain loss), which HKS claim needs the smaller pulley + cams??
Nice find! I don't think HKS's numbers are absolute, I curious about the restrictor +100mm pulley I don't know if it is recommended either. The instructions say restrictor must be use on a stock engine but does not mention pulleys.
I feel like the supercharger is rated at a capability rather than a "we took every bolt-on we could and maxed it out"
Also to add, Z1 could have pushed it with the 110mm and no restrictor
I asked but the question was ignored/overlooked. Safe to assume theirs was an unrestricted 110mm pulley.
It occurred to me that I can just open up the restrictor a bit to push boost a little higher than 5-8psi too. I'll deal with it at the time with my tuner.
My build with the high boost pulley and no restrictor on the GTS8555 kit it ran roughly 12psi
Initially I ran the GTS8555 with the low boost pulley and restrictor and it was right about 6psi.
Dyno chart below is stock engine and low boost pulley + restrictor vs built bottom end with high boost pulley and no restrictor.
This dyno notoriously reads a bit low, but on the same dyno the N/A setup did like 245whp, so about 72whp gain for 6psi, and 130whp for 12psi on the built bottom end.
Seems low compared to Z1's numbers. Elevation, tune and choice of supporting mods have and effect I suppose. On average 12 psi will be around 450-500whp for these cars (at least from what I've seen)
Agreed. Should be a bit more for 12 psi but not by much really. For a supercharger setup, 12psi should be around 390-420. Mine made 402 when I had the Vortech V2 with 2.87 pulley. However, on the turbo setup ( same engine ) it made 450 @12 psi. For a supercharger setup, they are not bad numbers. Curious what other supporting mods / location AKS14 has/is ? Regardless, Id take a good conservative tune and sacrifice a few ponies anyday. Happy Monday!
Hi guys, had life admin for a while but I'm aiming to get started on installing the kit over the next couple of weeks.
In the meantime I've noticed an issue with rev stability, mainly while holding a static throttle position.
I posted some logs in Link's forum and they pointed out my VCT was looking pretty shabby. I went back through some logs from a few months ago and while they weren't terrible, I was definitely seeing some slightly erratic data, particularly in bank 1, but it wasn't terrible and largely uniform with bank 2. Close enough to target mostly too.
These more recent logs show anything but:
Hoping the brains trust can advise whether this is typical of old/worn solenoids (they are the originals) or whether this could be something else?
Update on the build. Haven't touched the SC kit yet (sorry), but I'm getting a few prep jobs out of the way.
Re the above issue with VTC. Apparently it needs PID tuning to get it right. Disappointed my tuner hadn't picked up on it as my pre-tune logs show it was present then too. Given they have to be fine tuned, I'd rather do it on new hardware so I've ordered a replacement set of solenoids.
I finally got around to making a gauge pod insert. It's one of the main reasons I wanted a 3D printer in the first place. Don't like the glossy PLA much so I might sand and give it a quick spray paint in matte. Annoyingly I had a great matte PLA that I used in the previous iteration, but ran out. I'll be switching back to it as it printed slightly better as well.
Quick inspection on the valves. They all look mint.
Took these suckers out for some more volume. I could use JB weld, but I'm going to pay someone to do it properly. I was tempted to get rid of all 6 supports but wanted to keep two just in case, although I feel like they are totally unnecessary for the maximum boost (15psi) the HKS can produce on the 100mm pulley. Which this engine won't see until it's fully rebuilt in a year or two's time. So 5-8psi for now.
I intend on doing a little porting of the inside of the where the TB attaches too.
Installed a new vacuum port as well. I'll attach the blow off valve to the front 4mm port and this one will service the FPR and MAP sensor. Drilled and tapped so I can switch it out for AN in the future maybe.
Doing some basic port matching. Still got a while to finalise the shape and clean it up. Then I've got to do it all over again with the lower intake.
I'd already shortened the height of the two front runners so this time I'm just softening the curve around the mouth. Otherwise I'm mainly just cleaning up some rough edges up top.
I'm waiting on delivery of some flap wheels so I thought I'd get started on the SC install, finally!
Nobody should be surprised that the HKS kit is very high quality. Brackets especially are precise and well thought out, at least in terms of system functionality. There are a couple of steps I've hit already that are frustratingly fiddly (weird bolt locations) but it all works with perseverance.
As I've foreshadowed in previous posts, my issues with installation all stem from my aftermarket components; power steering cooler, oil cooler and fuel pressure regulator (although I haven't been able to check the FPR clearance yet). It's not surprising given the incredibly limited room we have to work with in the 350Z platform, but it is what it is. There will be solutions for everything, but I'll have to start draining fluids and cutting hoses. And make custom brackets...
Engine bay is in its natural state of disarray. I'm going to compression test before the new coils go in. Unlikely there's an issue, but I want to get a base line before I start stressing the engine.
My Mishmoto radiator meant there was no clearance for the idle pulley and would have interfered with belts. Tbf, even if I didn't have an aftermarket radiator I would've chopped the shroud. Installation for the idle pulley bracket is ridiculous and requires you to push the pulley forward (towards the radiator) while you try and tighten the bolts on the bracket. It's not fun and the more room the better.
Per instructions had to re-route the aircon hardline. Wasn't as bad as I was anticipating but haven't test fit with the new hardware yet. That corrugated tube on the right is all-new and replaces the hard wiring case that normally sits there. All in the name of room.
Test fit the intercooler. If I had no aftermarket stuff, this would be a pretty easy install overall.
One of the oddities I came across is the routing for the harness that wires in the ambient air temp sensor and the horns is fine, but doesn't account for the air con condenser drier switch. I'll have to manually extend those wires.
Traction cooler "installed".
I'm not looking forward to solving this problem. I think it'll probably work best mounting vertical (like the HKS solution for the OEM cooler), but mine is pretty beefy so...
My oil cooler is 50mm thick. The space between the intercooler and the condenser (without the cardboard) is around 55mm. Maybe that's how I do this, but routing the lines are a whole other issue.
I'm sure this is an issue for anyone with a front mount intercooler, but that's a third of it blocked up by the crash bar. Speed holes won't solve anything because the intake is below the crash bar. Has anyone attempted cutting away part of the crash bar to create a ramp from the front-bottom of the bar up to the top-back? I'd leave the tow thread and go either side as far as the full radiator bracket intake. Surely that would improve airflow at least through the intercooler. I don't have the means to do it myself, so I'd have to pay a fabricator.
