Ok so I'm curious what you guys have seen and used in the real world.
Power goal is about 500hp street only, and I'm looking into getting a radiator and keep seeing fitment issues with bigger radiators and superchargers.
Are there any lower profile radiators out there that can work or what have you guy done to stay cool?
I plan on staying on stock fans and shroud as well.
TIA

 

I ran a Vortech for Years at 20psi.

I have a Large Oil Cooler.

But the Cooling System is totally Stock, and Never had any problems.

Most Problems come from not Bleeding the Air out of the System.

NOW, with a Built Motor, 11:1cr, Vortech V7 YSi, 32psi@7800rpm

Still on Stock Radiator with Thin Shroud & Spal Fans, But it's now at the point that it could use a Better Radiator.

TimRod

 

I would (first) ensure you have both effective passive air into and through the radiator and then give the hot air an escape route.

I also think the OEM fans are more inhibitive and if you can get away with a single 16” Spal fan you will be better off than OEM fans (especially for how thick the OEM fans are).

500hp is a very achievable goal and I think as long as you give the airflow a way in and a way out you’ll be fine.

It may be wise to switch over to full aluminum OEM variant.

 

Thanks for the responses, as far as getting air in and out, my grille is decently big and I do have the Varis hood which has 2 vents just passed the radiator.
From what ive read most track guys run the stock shroud because it worked better than aftermarket is this not the case?
Any recommendations on an all aluminum OEM variant?
Also reason I was concerned about the cooling system is that as it sit right now in NA form my car will reach ECT temps of 220+ when sitting in traffic with the AC on.
When driving on the highway usually is 185-200 depending on temps outside, my headers add heat to the engine bay but I will coat them when building the engine to help keep temps down.

 

Stock engine, V3 on '06 DE. OEM cooling system works/fits great. I'm hearing more and more bad re Mishimoto slim profile rad fyi.

 

I think the OEM setup is pretty good - I wouldnt go bat-**** crazy with opening the bumper up but it sounds like you are pointed in the right direction.

Im not a huge fan of anything Mishimoto but I’ve heard very good things from they drift guys that use the Koyo drop in - they say it’s a great option.

Are your heat sheilds on the headers?

Anything you can do to generate open airspace within the engine will help pull hot air out of the engine bay.

Are you running an oil cooler currently? Do you anticipate running one in the future? I think it’s smart to relocate the power steering cooler and oil cooler away from (as much as feasible) the radiator - stacking them may compound cooling problems.

 

No, i have Tomei headers so no heat shields.
I do plan on getting a cooler just trying to figure out how big it needs to be, I'll also be using a Central 20 oil pan.
I do know the HKS kit uses a lot of real estate up front, the PS cooler and traction fluid cooler bolt to the intercooler on both sides so most likely the oil cooler will have to be off to the side.

 

I actually have been working on some cooling issues lately. I am running on a very small shifter cart track that is really hard on my vortech supercharged engine. Cooling is key, especially in Texas. Here is a picture of the setup. Making about 410hp on E85. CSF Radiator, Mishiomoto Fan shroud, but with Spal fans installed, Nismo thermostat, water cooling additive, Tuner programmed the fans to come on sooner. Also, I switched from a V2 to a V3 supercharger so it is not involved in the oil circulation. Counter intuitive to some degree, but the bearings where going out on the V2 and contributing to higher oil temps. Once it warms back up outside we will see how it does. It has always been fine on the street, no over heating. Next steps will need to be more airflow thorugh the front and or a vented hood if I want to keep trying to run it hard on a very tight track. Here is a short video of my 17 year old son driving it on the track having fun running down a Corvette. LOL.. Ignore the trash talking my brother owns a corvette and we were calling him out in the video. Running on this type of track hard for 10 minutes allows very little air flow because the speeds are low, but you are running the engine very hard. ALL the cars come back needing some cool down time for both the engine and the brakes.

 

sorry, double post..

 

Is your cooling issue oil or coolant related? The reasoning a bit concerned is the HKS intercooler setup takes up a lot of real estate, it's taller than yours and then has the traction oil cooler mounted on one side and the PS cooler on the other. Trying to figure out now if I will need a radiator and how big of a oil cooler I will need as well.

 

Actually, what happened on my last run at the track is the oil temp was running high around 240, but the water temp was holding and then it to started climbing fairly quickly toward the end of a 10 minute hard run. I think the causes for that were a few things. Look at where my license plate is? Not a great place to be for air flow track running. Plan on taking that off next time I go. Also, I discovered later after I took it into my shop that the bearings had gone out on the supercharger. The theory is that supercharger (V2 uses the engine oil) was cooking the oil quite a bit and contributing to the overheating. So, new V3 supercharger(self contained on the oil), Take off license Plate, Nismo thermostat(recommended by mechanic), Racing Radiator Fluid additive(People swear by this stuff), Pathfinder Mod. to better cool the rear two cylinders. Spent some time talking to the owner of the Z shop and he said the last two things to try was different bumper(better airflow) and a vented hood. He did say if the car overheats next time, take off the hood and try that to see what affect it has. Cheap way to check out before buying a new hood, which I really do not want to do. The capacity of the CSF radiator is far more than the OEM radiator with very good venting. Should make a substantial difference in that way. Trial and error. I should again point out this is not a "street" problem at all. Just on a very tight track, low air flow because of lower speeds, and running the engine hard. Probably the most extreme situation for the engine you could come up with.

 

Note the difference in radiator capacity, but the mount points are the same depth. Still, I went with the thinner fan shroud with the SPAL fans. If I had to do it again I might have just mounted a single large spal fan right to the radiator. Not saying you should buy a CSF radiator either, it is great, but so are others. Just don't by the Mishi radiator. I have been told the fitment and quality is irregular. This CSF was well made. Heck, I would start with the OEM and then if there is a problem then make changes.

Long boring video of me putting in the Spal fans. The Mishi fans SUCK. Texas is HOT.

 

Yeah I completely understand street vs track being different animals and it was actually your thread about fitment that made me question this whole setup as I was going to go with CSF or Koyo.
I have the vented hood and aftermarket bumper, pathfinder mod will be done as well.
Only things up in the air are oil cooler sizing, and what thermostat/radiator combo to use.
I won't be doing this for a bit because I don't think my current engine would like 500hp very much but my fans took a dump so I figure might as well get whatever I need up front now.

 

Great. Yeah, 500hp is a LOT. Built motor? At that level of HP you are going to need some sticky tires. Mine are all squirmy in 2nd gear on asphalt as it is. Particularly tough on these cold days. Really the car is a blast with the additional hp and I have surprised some modern cars that were thinking they could just blow by me. LOL.

 

Yes I will probably have Soho or Dynosty build me an engine. I'm currently on a set of 275/305 PS4S but can go Cup 2 or something like that if needed.