Hi All,

First off a tremendous tip of the hat to Bealljk for helping me through a tough stretch with my car. It's like having a guardian angel watching over my shoulder and it's very much appreciated.

I could certainly use the forum's advice on how to achieve the best outcome on the dyno to dial in an upgraded fuel delivery system..
The current Uprev tune is based on 7 PSI of boost on 93 octane. The fuel delivery uses 600cc injectors, a 255 lph pump and the stock rail with no return. The clutch was stock and did slip on the last dyno pull. It's a SOHO kit.
The new tune will be for 7PSI of boost on 93 octane but with 1050 cc injectors, a 340 lph pump and the stock rail but with a return. The clutch has been upgraded.
Looking back I screwed myself by not upgrading the clutch when the kit was originally installed. With the new clutch I know I should break it in before tuning on the dyno. To break the clutch I would I would need to drive the car knowing it's not tuned for the new fuel setup.
My assumptions are If I tune on a new clutch I risk damaging it.. If I break in the clutch I risk damage to the engine.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed the current tune can be modified enough to run safely on the 1050 cc injectors just to get through the clutch break in period.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.



How my troubles started.....
My troubles started when one bad injector caused the car to run rough. Unfortunately cleaning the injector didn't work and a replacement for the bad one was not an option. It's a 600cc Deatschwerks sold injector that is no longer supported. I opted to invest in 1050 cc injectors
and a return fuel system because it will be needed for the future version of the car. I also invested in a new clutch. The current clutch would slip occasionally in 4th gear and upgrade was long overdue and needed for the future version of the car.

 

In most cases, a tuner should be able to give you a safe base map to drive around on and break the clutch in. most clutches don't require pulls for break in - its more stop and go miles.

 

Tuner should be able to get you sorted out with the injector size change, which is the biggest factor for a map you can drive around on.

 

I appreciate the kind words …

In my near-20years with my white z and the ensuing chassis (not to mention my daily-drivers) there have been people along the way that have helped me out with many many things … Im just paying it back …

I dont really think clutches need ‘broken-in’ like piston rings/engines do. But it would be good to shake the clutch setup out before you dyno just so you know everything is good.

The fuel pump will make no difference with the tune … it’s only job is to ensure you have 52psi of fuell pressure at all times (with the help of the return system).

Your tuner will modify your tune to account for the ID1050 injectors - did you say you’re going with Moncef/Admin? He has so much experience tuning these cars that it wont be an issue.

Stock rail can handle a decent amount of fuel flow - so it’s not a big thing to keep.

7psi / 93oct / lower elevations / nice cool IATs, I suspect you will be right on the 400hp mark and 375fts.

 

Curious as to why you think this vs. manufacturers specifying a break in procedure (for example, comp clutch: https://support.competitionclutch.co...-in-procedure- )

I personally think clutch break in is more so it doesn't chatter and be annoying, than it is to hold the power. But, I'm likely wrong. Seems silly to negate manufacturer instructions on break in procedures, unless youre a psychopath who likes removing transmissions

 

Yea - that makes sense…I get it…

 

Nothing is Perfect. There are Hi & Low spots on every clutch, so each disk needs to be Seated or Bedded in.

And Every Type of Clutch Materal will be Different.