I couldn't get the nuts off of the cable, but the nuts came off of the SS box easily. So I'm plugged in now, unfortunately, this stupid hurricane still hasn't passed over yet, so the Z is stuck in the garage.

 

May as well hook it up and see if you can connect to the ECU . You may have to use a different com port setting . Its set at com port 1....try that one...if it dont connect....try com port 2....3 , .4, 5 . Mine connected on #4. Call me if you want...Bill

 

alright booger, how do I do it? turn on the laptop first, plug in box, turn on car? or turn on car than plug in? does it matter? And what settings do I need to set and how do I make a file of the stock settings?

 

Thats why you need to call me...lol....you still got my number ? I PMed it to you

 

You get your power back from the storm yet ?

 

So I finally got around to hookin' up the laptop. SS agrees with zeitronix that max boost is 6.4-6.5 lbs at 6600 rpm. Still low, and it has a perfectly smooth, linear increase in boost. I don't know why it's so low.

Also, checking the AFR, I was down to 10.5 @ 3000 rpm with 1.3 lbs of boost and 10.5 @ 3500 rpm with 1.8lbs. I adjusted the settings a little, (down adds less fuel, right?) and now it's at 11.2 @ 3000 and 11.5 @3500. It feels alot stronger. But I bet it would feel stronger if I found my missing 1.5 pounds of boost!

(Also, temp was 92 degrees during testing, not sure how much this affects it.)

 

Good to hear you figured ever thing out with the R4 . Im interested in the Zeitronix ....Does it data log your A/F and rpm and boost for you ? I saaw it the other day and it looks good .And there is a thread about it . Looking at it , to tune the car with out being on a dyno . Stupid ? but have you checked the tention on your serp belt ? Have you adjusted BOV ? that shouldnt make a diff. on boost level but you sure can tell the diff . on how fast you get in to boost . The serp belt need s to be tight . 4/10ths of an inch of play . You should barely be able to turn it side ways .

 

I'm gonna try to tighten the belt more, maybe tonight. I haven't touched the blow-off valve, it's just like it came from the factory. Like I said, I'm at about 1.3 lbs @ 3000 rpm. Is that low, or about where everyone is at at that rpm?

The zeitronix is a good tool. It datalogs AFR, boost and rpm in real time so you can go back and look at the run and no where you need more fuel or less. The only thing it doesn't tell you is hp/tq.

By the way, since I'm toying with these numbers, why does it start at 10. does 10 = no modification of factory MAF signal? With less than 10 signifying less incoming air (decrease fuel to cylinders to increase a/f) and more than 10 signifying more incoming air (add fuel to lower a/f)? Also does it go by percent, so that say 20 equals double the factory signal and 5 equals 1/2 the maf signal or is it an absolute change in maf signal?

 

You have me there on the numbers in the fuel map . I dont know .I know my A/F doesnt drop down under 12 to 1 until after 3,600 3,700rpm under WOT . And all the numbers in the fuel map are 10.2 or 10 before 0 Hg. and one area from 2,000rpm to 3,500rpm and 0Hg. to3.5psi thats all 10.4 . I know I didnt have to raise any numbers at all . My tuner and I think the stock ECU dumps alot of fuel in right before redline and we ended up with numbers as low as 6.8 and 7.2 at or above 6,500rpm and 7.5 to 9.5 psi to keep the A/F above 11 to 1 . If your going to adjust fuel your self with out being on a dyno . Do it slowly....maybe .1 or .2 at a time . A good way to do it , is to take a dyno chart that shows ...rpm...A/F...and boost . Make a copy on paper of your fuel map [from thte R4 ] and then chart your rpm and boost range thru that copy of your fuel map . So you can see what cells in your fuel map are effected . I looked at a couple of my dyno charts and one says It was at 1.6psi at 3,400rpm and another was 2.4psi at 3,400rpm , I think its has more to do with how fast you get to WOT . I have an AT5 and in manual it will still down shift if I go WOT to soon . So I have gradually get there after 3,000rpm . I just cant stomp on it . The Zeitronix....does it read A/F from the stock ECU or do you need a extra o2 sensor ? Is it hard to hook up ?.....Bill

 

Zeitronix needs a wideband bosche O2, which they sell with the kit. It's a pretty easy install. Get the bung welded, rout the wires, plug in ground, power, tap an rpm signal and tps signal from the main vehicle harness, that's about it. I put it in when I installed the Vortech. It also has an optional boost sensor and egt sensor.

How do I adjust the bov? I know that it whistles at idle, maybe it's not building boost early enough?

 

Look to see how mant threads are showing . I had like 9 showing . Just losen up the nut , use an allen wrench and tighten the bolt down one thread at a time , tighten nut back up, go out and test it . Do it untill you hear a flutter sound coming from the blower when you let off the gas from WOT . Then back it off one thread and test it again until flutter is no longer there . I have 6 maybe 6 1/2 threads showing now . The flutter is compresor surge and is baddddddd . The whistle is unavoidable . its just that BOV and its design . I put on a filter Vortech has , and stuffed it full of a piece of air filter from shop vac. Foam type

 

i had the same problem......the belt felt tight but it wasnt ...it needs to be real tight 9 to almost no side flexion, the resistance starts to build up at higher rpms...otherwise there maybe a kink in the reference tube

 

actually, when i got back from China, I WOT my car and i got a little over 8 psi. Try loosening your tensioner pulley.

 

sorry, forgot to mention that when i got back it was pretty humid and pretty warm, so the weather didn't have too much to do with my boost

 

I can turn my belt sideways about 45 degrees each way. It doesn't squeal at all though. Is this too loose?

 

sounds about right , as long as it will not go any further