**Performance/HP Loss with JWT Pop-charger???...**
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**Performance/HP Loss with JWT Pop-charger???...**
I keep hearing that the JWT Pop-charger actually causes a HP loss due to heat being able to enter the charger; is this actually happening? Should I dyno my car to see if I'm losing power with it installed? If you have this intake installed please reply with your thoughts.
If I'm losing power I will get the Stillen system ASAP!!!
If I'm losing power I will get the Stillen system ASAP!!!
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Originally posted by Philthy
I doubt it very much... We realized 7-8whp gains from our JWT Pop-charger, and our dynos were conducted in the middle of summer in 90+degree weather...
I doubt it very much... We realized 7-8whp gains from our JWT Pop-charger, and our dynos were conducted in the middle of summer in 90+degree weather...
Originally posted by Philthy
I doubt it very much... We realized 7-8whp gains from our JWT Pop-charger, and our dynos were conducted in the middle of summer in 90+degree weather...
I doubt it very much... We realized 7-8whp gains from our JWT Pop-charger, and our dynos were conducted in the middle of summer in 90+degree weather...
The Z-Tube definitely increases the performance by the above 7-8rwhp claims. Philthy, did you all dyno a stock car with a z-tube and the stock airbox for comparison or did you just dyno the z-tube and p/c?
Bottom line: Heat from the engine bay builds up while the car is running and not moving. When you take off, the car injests hot air (like when sitting at a traffic light for 2 minutes) and this slows the car down initially. There is a reason that aftermarket vendors do not sell hot air intakes, which is how my P/C was performing.
If you want to buy a Z-Tube and JWT Popcharger, do it. I did. I ran it for ~7 months and then removed it. I felt no gain when I added it, and felt a slight gain in throttle response when I removed it. I also stopped hearing the occasional weird knocking noise when I accelerated from an extended stoplight.
Disclaimer: I live in Central FL. Afternoon high temperatures are often 101 degrees outside. If you live up north the P/C might perform similar to the stock airbox due to the cooler daily temperatures. I have not measured pressure differences, but others have. They have claimed that the stock airbox performs better scientifically than the P/C.
Your mileage may vary.
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Originally posted by neffster
This is because the car was not "heat soaked" from normal driving conditions. The hood was probably opened, the car was probably sitting still for a while before the dyno run and had time to cool off. There was also the possibility of having a fan blow air in places that normally do not receive airflow when the car is moving and the hood is closed.
The Z-Tube definitely increases the performance by the above 7-8rwhp claims. Philthy, did you all dyno a stock car with a z-tube and the stock airbox for comparison or did you just dyno the z-tube and p/c?
Bottom line: Heat from the engine bay builds up while the car is running and not moving. When you take off, the car injests hot air (like when sitting at a traffic light for 2 minutes) and this slows the car down initially. There is a reason that aftermarket vendors do not sell hot air intakes, which is how my P/C was performing.
If you want to buy a Z-Tube and JWT Popcharger, do it. I did. I ran it for ~7 months and then removed it. I felt no gain when I added it, and felt a slight gain in throttle response when I removed it. I also stopped hearing the occasional weird knocking noise when I accelerated from an extended stoplight.
Disclaimer: I live in Central FL. Afternoon high temperatures are often 101 degrees outside. If you live up north the P/C might perform similar to the stock airbox due to the cooler daily temperatures. I have not measured pressure differences, but others have. They have claimed that the stock airbox performs better scientifically than the P/C.
Your mileage may vary.
This is because the car was not "heat soaked" from normal driving conditions. The hood was probably opened, the car was probably sitting still for a while before the dyno run and had time to cool off. There was also the possibility of having a fan blow air in places that normally do not receive airflow when the car is moving and the hood is closed.
The Z-Tube definitely increases the performance by the above 7-8rwhp claims. Philthy, did you all dyno a stock car with a z-tube and the stock airbox for comparison or did you just dyno the z-tube and p/c?
Bottom line: Heat from the engine bay builds up while the car is running and not moving. When you take off, the car injests hot air (like when sitting at a traffic light for 2 minutes) and this slows the car down initially. There is a reason that aftermarket vendors do not sell hot air intakes, which is how my P/C was performing.
If you want to buy a Z-Tube and JWT Popcharger, do it. I did. I ran it for ~7 months and then removed it. I felt no gain when I added it, and felt a slight gain in throttle response when I removed it. I also stopped hearing the occasional weird knocking noise when I accelerated from an extended stoplight.
Disclaimer: I live in Central FL. Afternoon high temperatures are often 101 degrees outside. If you live up north the P/C might perform similar to the stock airbox due to the cooler daily temperatures. I have not measured pressure differences, but others have. They have claimed that the stock airbox performs better scientifically than the P/C.
Your mileage may vary.
If you want my honest opinion, check my sig... 
Other people have bought the Stillen for ~$250 and the Z-Tube for ~$80 and like it. I've done the Z-Tube and JWT P/C, and now have reverted back to Z-Tube and stock airbox. The K&N was ordered through Performance Nissan and will be delivered this week. I don't expect anything other than extended life between cleaning/reoiling from the K&N, definitely no performance gains or hp increases are expected.
The only thing you could do is buy the stillen and z-tube and JWT P/C and install each combo for a week or so. Drive it easy, hard, however you like. See which one works best for you and then sell the other items. This is the only way you'll know for sure what mod is best for you.
Good Luck
Other people have bought the Stillen for ~$250 and the Z-Tube for ~$80 and like it. I've done the Z-Tube and JWT P/C, and now have reverted back to Z-Tube and stock airbox. The K&N was ordered through Performance Nissan and will be delivered this week. I don't expect anything other than extended life between cleaning/reoiling from the K&N, definitely no performance gains or hp increases are expected.
The only thing you could do is buy the stillen and z-tube and JWT P/C and install each combo for a week or so. Drive it easy, hard, however you like. See which one works best for you and then sell the other items. This is the only way you'll know for sure what mod is best for you.
Good Luck
Originally posted by neffster
This is because the car was not "heat soaked" from normal driving conditions. The hood was probably opened, the car was probably sitting still for a while before the dyno run and had time to cool off. There was also the possibility of having a fan blow air in places that normally do not receive airflow when the car is moving and the hood is closed.
This is because the car was not "heat soaked" from normal driving conditions. The hood was probably opened, the car was probably sitting still for a while before the dyno run and had time to cool off. There was also the possibility of having a fan blow air in places that normally do not receive airflow when the car is moving and the hood is closed.
Your butt dyno may need to be recalibrated...
Our dyno is in spec, and the Pop-charger produces real WHP.... When we added the stock airbox back on with the z-tube we lost 2whp...
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I just removed the Pop-charger and put the stock box back on today and my acceleration is smoother... like it was the day I bought it. I still have the Z-tube and the car does seem a little quicker during shifts. I'm going to continue on with my mods that include Crawford Plenum, Headers, and CATS. The question is, should I get the Technosquare ECU upgrade to fully maximize my gains from those mods?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Originally posted by Philthy
LOL... You're kidding, right? The volume or air blowing into my motor is far greater crusing down the high way or racing around a track then any fan can produce... Off the line performance in traffic?
LOL... You're kidding, right? The volume or air blowing into my motor is far greater crusing down the high way or racing around a track then any fan can produce... Off the line performance in traffic?
Your butt dyno may need to be recalibrated...
However, you cannot deny the lack of knocking or the lack of hesitation when taking off. If you are not experiencing that, good. I was with the Pop Charger, and so are all of the other CFL guys who meet up every Friday night for our meets.
Our dyno is in spec, and the Pop-charger produces real WHP.... When we added the stock airbox back on with the z-tube we lost 2whp...
Another interesting thread to read regarding the "hot air phenomenon" is on Fresh Alloy. Q45Tech is an 10+ year Infiniti Technician in GA. He often times posts useful tips and tid-bits of information that I take very seriously.
I've added the content of the thread for those too lazy to click the link above...
"The G35 MAF has an integrated air temp sensor so easy with a scan tool to read what you are getting [[air flow in grams per second] and temp of air]].
Each 11F hotter air reduces power by 1% minimum.
All ecu have summer heat protection that may trigger a much greater power reduction than 1% based on air and coolant temperature rises above 195F.
Additionally having AC on also signals ecu to reduce power at WOT when outside ambient is high.
On the street due to heat soak a pop charger without cool air can be pretty bad till you get to speed and for 15 seconds thereafter........always the underhood [rad heated] air is [20-40F] warmer than that infront [which can still be 15-20 F warmer than the shade [radio reports] due to car exhaust in front mixed with hot asphalt.
Dyno runs with hood open don't yield true world results!!!!"
I've added the content of the thread for those too lazy to click the link above...
"The G35 MAF has an integrated air temp sensor so easy with a scan tool to read what you are getting [[air flow in grams per second] and temp of air]].
Each 11F hotter air reduces power by 1% minimum.
All ecu have summer heat protection that may trigger a much greater power reduction than 1% based on air and coolant temperature rises above 195F.
Additionally having AC on also signals ecu to reduce power at WOT when outside ambient is high.
On the street due to heat soak a pop charger without cool air can be pretty bad till you get to speed and for 15 seconds thereafter........always the underhood [rad heated] air is [20-40F] warmer than that infront [which can still be 15-20 F warmer than the shade [radio reports] due to car exhaust in front mixed with hot asphalt.
Dyno runs with hood open don't yield true world results!!!!"
OK, I'll be open to this and perform more testing... I've got some time on the dyno next week, and I'll perform the switch from the stock air box (w/k&n) vs. the pop-charger and post results.
I agree that Dyno runs with the hood opened may not give you the exact results you may get on the road, but it's really good at providing baselines and performance differences between upgrades.
I agree that Dyno runs with the hood opened may not give you the exact results you may get on the road, but it's really good at providing baselines and performance differences between upgrades.
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From: Santa Ana CA 92701
...
I hope you guys are testing on a loading dyno. We've been seeing some pretty different results between dynojet runs and our dyno runs (mustangdyne awd)!
If anyone with a pop charger wants to come by with their stock box (you gotta swap it yourself though!) I'll gladly offer some free dyno time.
Cheers,
Gary
Gruppe-S
Hayward, CA
If anyone with a pop charger wants to come by with their stock box (you gotta swap it yourself though!) I'll gladly offer some free dyno time.
Cheers,
Gary
Gruppe-S
Hayward, CA
For what its worth..and it may just be me. But the dealership had me to remove my pop charger so they could "diagnose" my oil consumption problem. At any rate I cannot wait to get the pop charger back on. Maybe its the more aggressive sound I had before, but it honestly feels like my car pulled harder before than it does now..just my two cents
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From: Arlington,Texas
7-8 hp possible with a pop charger.Yes. However with a less restrictive more wide open intake, like the pop charger, you slow down intake air velocity which reduces torque on the low end. So you gain a little on the high end and you lose a little on the low end. Heat soak likely adds to the low end problem.
Re: ...
Originally posted by Gruppe-S
If anyone with a pop charger wants to come by with their stock box (you gotta swap it yourself though!) I'll gladly offer some free dyno time.
Cheers,
Gary
Gruppe-S
Hayward, CA
If anyone with a pop charger wants to come by with their stock box (you gotta swap it yourself though!) I'll gladly offer some free dyno time.
Cheers,
Gary
Gruppe-S
Hayward, CA
This is the 3rd time I've tried posting a reply to this thread. Each time I try to add a picture and the darn thing goes awry. Anyway, this time I'll post the data in this message and THEN try to follow with a picture to show what I'm describing.
The following picture is a dyno showing a stock G35 5AT coupe, a 5AT coupe with the Z-Tube and P/C, and a 5AT coupe with the Z-Tube and Stock Air Box. Notice the following...
1. The JWT P/C, with the hood open and fan blowing directly on it shows similar gains as the stock airbox. Compare the dyno in the following thread. Check out the area under the curves, they're almost identical.
2. The P/C, on the dyno, is in an IDEAL situation. The engines were not heat soaked, the hood was open allowing better than normal air flow, and the P/C was not injesting hot engine air, etc...
In summary... the P/C costs in the neighborhood of $120.00 for basically no performance gain over the stock airbox. With hot, humid summer weather the P/C really does lose hp. It can be felt by the seat of the pants and can be "logically derived" from the data shown...
...now here's to hoping the darn image works...
The following picture is a dyno showing a stock G35 5AT coupe, a 5AT coupe with the Z-Tube and P/C, and a 5AT coupe with the Z-Tube and Stock Air Box. Notice the following...
1. The JWT P/C, with the hood open and fan blowing directly on it shows similar gains as the stock airbox. Compare the dyno in the following thread. Check out the area under the curves, they're almost identical.
2. The P/C, on the dyno, is in an IDEAL situation. The engines were not heat soaked, the hood was open allowing better than normal air flow, and the P/C was not injesting hot engine air, etc...
In summary... the P/C costs in the neighborhood of $120.00 for basically no performance gain over the stock airbox. With hot, humid summer weather the P/C really does lose hp. It can be felt by the seat of the pants and can be "logically derived" from the data shown...
...now here's to hoping the darn image works...
Last edited by neffster; Oct 5, 2004 at 04:35 AM.
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Opinions and condensed multiple air intake system test results.
You guys may find this information of interest. Take it for what it's worth to you.
First point that's often overlooked. G35 / 350Z ECMs back off timing as coolant and air temps increase above certain levels.
(Sources - Infiniti/Nissan Service Manuals & Technosquare)
All vehicles tested were G35s.
Primary equipment used:
Techtom CMX-100 N2. Provides the real time info as it's seen by the ECM. It also has a peak-hold feature so you can see the maximum value the ECM has seen. It measures...
Air Flow Meter Voltage (V)
Battery Voltage (V)
Ignition timing (degrees)
Intake temp (F) (at the MAF sensor)
RPM (X10)
Speed (mph)
Water (Coolant) temp (F)
DaveO & Alagolfer test results.
STILLEN CAI & 350Z AIR DUCT - Insulated
Air Intake System: Stillen CAI w/Popcharger air filter & Z-tube - System, including MAS Air Flow sensor, is fully insulated.
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 98F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling
Water (Coolant) Temp: 190F - 210F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle for 2+ minutes: 112-115F
Intake Air Temp @ 60mph: 107-109F
Approximate Cool Down Time: 2+ Minutes
STOCK AIR CASE & 350Z AIR DUCT - Insulated
Air Intake System: Stock Air Case - K&N Drop-in air filter & Z-tube -System, including back of the air case, MAF sensor and Z-tube, is fully insulated.
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 86F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling
Water (Coolant) Temp: 190F - 200F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle for 2 minutes: 112F -115F
Intake Air Temp @ 60mph: 96F -100F
Approximate Cool Down Time: 3+ Minutes
Temperatures change more slowly than with the Stillen setup.
POPCHARGER & 350Z AIR DUCT
Air Intake System: JWT Popcharger
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 62F
A/C System: Off
Radiator Fans: Off
Water (Coolant) Temp: 185F - 192F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle for 1 minute: 158F
Intake Air Temp @ 60mph: 84F
Approximate Cool Down Time: 3+ Minutes
POPCHARGER & 350Z AIR DUCT - Insulated
Air Intake System: JWT Popcharger w/heat shield & Z-tube - Back of the velocity ring, MAS Air Flow sensor and Z-tube are fully insulated.
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 97F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling.
Water (Coolant) Temp: 190F - 210F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle for 5 minutes: 134-138F
Intake Air Temp @ 60mph: 116F
Approximate Cool Down Time: 2+ Minutes
DaveO & Alagolfer's notes:
Test drive after swaping out the insulated Stillen CAI for the insulated stock air case / K&N drop-in air filter. Initial impressions... where the heck did the mid-range and top end power go!!!! There may be a very, very slight amount of increase in torque at partial throttle, but the car now "boggs" off the line at full throttle.
During back to back insulated Stillen vs insulated Popcharger tests, the Popcharger's temps were about double Stillen's. For example: At idle, when the Stillen system was about 15F above ambient temp, the Popcharger’s temps were 30-35F above ambient. At 60mph the insulated Popcharger system was an average of 10F higher than the insulated Stillen system.
Jim C's Techtom Test Results (condensed & edited by DaveO).
K&N 350Z TYPHOON - Modified & Insulated
Air Intake System: A highly reworked K&N 350Z Typhoon System. A totally sealed ram air system with a 3" inlet (vs the original 2.5") and a larger open ended K&N filter. The air box has a carbon fiber lid, but the box itself is metal. The box and upper metal tube are insulated with sheet fiberglass and reflective insulation. The air scoop for the system is located in a high pressure zone in the front bumber.
IMPORTANT!!! The first test was with the airbox lid removed. This allows for a popcharger like setup only with a 3/4 heat shield.
Lid off airbox test
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 99F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling.
Water (Coolant) Temp: 183F (@ test start) - 192F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle on initial start: 132F
After 4 blocks, stopped, opened hood, checked intake temp.
Intake Air Temp: 138F
Closed hood and drove off again...
2 blocks at 45mph - 114F air temp
30sec stop - 149F
2 blocks at 45mph - 120F
10 sec stop - 138F
2 blocks at 30mph - 122F
1 minute stop - 149F
4 blocks at 65mph - 109 intake
End lid off testing.
Test with air box lid being re-installed (full ram air system).
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 99F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling.
Water (Coolant) Temp: 192F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle: 123F
Test Speed - 65mph
.3 miles - 107F air temp
8.6 miles - 102F
20 sec stop - 109F
After .1 mile - 107F
30 sec stop - 111F
.2 miles - 107F
45 sec stop - 114F
.2 miles - 109F
1:15 sec stop - 116F
.6 miles - 105F
Next day tests.
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 100F - 101F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling.
Water (Coolant) Temp: 192F - 195F
Test Speed - 65mph
8 mile pre-test trip - 107F air temp
2 minute soak test - 111F
3 minute soak test - 113F
4 minute soak test - 114F
.4 miles @ 65mph - 111F
1.7 miles @ 65mph - 107F
Second day heat soak test.
2 minutes heat soak - 123F air temp
3 minutes heat soak - 127F
.1 mile @ 45mph - 116F
.4 mile @ 45mph - 113F
1:15 sec stop - 120F
.1 miles @ 45mph - 113F
.8 miles @ 45mph - 109F
Jim C's notes:
Perviously, I was running a Z-tube with the setup and no insulation. But when testing in town revealed fast rising heat soak numbers in town and slow cool down's, I elected to insulate the metal tube that the K&N came with and install it in place of the Z-tube. In addition to dramatically lowering heat soak problems, I got a noticible improvement in top end power, wasn't suttle either.
You guys may find this information of interest. Take it for what it's worth to you.
First point that's often overlooked. G35 / 350Z ECMs back off timing as coolant and air temps increase above certain levels.
(Sources - Infiniti/Nissan Service Manuals & Technosquare)
All vehicles tested were G35s.
Primary equipment used:
Techtom CMX-100 N2. Provides the real time info as it's seen by the ECM. It also has a peak-hold feature so you can see the maximum value the ECM has seen. It measures...
Air Flow Meter Voltage (V)
Battery Voltage (V)
Ignition timing (degrees)
Intake temp (F) (at the MAF sensor)
RPM (X10)
Speed (mph)
Water (Coolant) temp (F)
DaveO & Alagolfer test results.
STILLEN CAI & 350Z AIR DUCT - Insulated
Air Intake System: Stillen CAI w/Popcharger air filter & Z-tube - System, including MAS Air Flow sensor, is fully insulated.
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 98F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling
Water (Coolant) Temp: 190F - 210F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle for 2+ minutes: 112-115F
Intake Air Temp @ 60mph: 107-109F
Approximate Cool Down Time: 2+ Minutes
STOCK AIR CASE & 350Z AIR DUCT - Insulated
Air Intake System: Stock Air Case - K&N Drop-in air filter & Z-tube -System, including back of the air case, MAF sensor and Z-tube, is fully insulated.
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 86F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling
Water (Coolant) Temp: 190F - 200F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle for 2 minutes: 112F -115F
Intake Air Temp @ 60mph: 96F -100F
Approximate Cool Down Time: 3+ Minutes
Temperatures change more slowly than with the Stillen setup.
POPCHARGER & 350Z AIR DUCT
Air Intake System: JWT Popcharger
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 62F
A/C System: Off
Radiator Fans: Off
Water (Coolant) Temp: 185F - 192F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle for 1 minute: 158F
Intake Air Temp @ 60mph: 84F
Approximate Cool Down Time: 3+ Minutes
POPCHARGER & 350Z AIR DUCT - Insulated
Air Intake System: JWT Popcharger w/heat shield & Z-tube - Back of the velocity ring, MAS Air Flow sensor and Z-tube are fully insulated.
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 97F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling.
Water (Coolant) Temp: 190F - 210F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle for 5 minutes: 134-138F
Intake Air Temp @ 60mph: 116F
Approximate Cool Down Time: 2+ Minutes
DaveO & Alagolfer's notes:
Test drive after swaping out the insulated Stillen CAI for the insulated stock air case / K&N drop-in air filter. Initial impressions... where the heck did the mid-range and top end power go!!!! There may be a very, very slight amount of increase in torque at partial throttle, but the car now "boggs" off the line at full throttle.
During back to back insulated Stillen vs insulated Popcharger tests, the Popcharger's temps were about double Stillen's. For example: At idle, when the Stillen system was about 15F above ambient temp, the Popcharger’s temps were 30-35F above ambient. At 60mph the insulated Popcharger system was an average of 10F higher than the insulated Stillen system.
Jim C's Techtom Test Results (condensed & edited by DaveO).
K&N 350Z TYPHOON - Modified & Insulated
Air Intake System: A highly reworked K&N 350Z Typhoon System. A totally sealed ram air system with a 3" inlet (vs the original 2.5") and a larger open ended K&N filter. The air box has a carbon fiber lid, but the box itself is metal. The box and upper metal tube are insulated with sheet fiberglass and reflective insulation. The air scoop for the system is located in a high pressure zone in the front bumber.
IMPORTANT!!! The first test was with the airbox lid removed. This allows for a popcharger like setup only with a 3/4 heat shield.
Lid off airbox test
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 99F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling.
Water (Coolant) Temp: 183F (@ test start) - 192F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle on initial start: 132F
After 4 blocks, stopped, opened hood, checked intake temp.
Intake Air Temp: 138F
Closed hood and drove off again...
2 blocks at 45mph - 114F air temp
30sec stop - 149F
2 blocks at 45mph - 120F
10 sec stop - 138F
2 blocks at 30mph - 122F
1 minute stop - 149F
4 blocks at 65mph - 109 intake
End lid off testing.
Test with air box lid being re-installed (full ram air system).
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 99F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling.
Water (Coolant) Temp: 192F
Intake Air Temp @ Idle: 123F
Test Speed - 65mph
.3 miles - 107F air temp
8.6 miles - 102F
20 sec stop - 109F
After .1 mile - 107F
30 sec stop - 111F
.2 miles - 107F
45 sec stop - 114F
.2 miles - 109F
1:15 sec stop - 116F
.6 miles - 105F
Next day tests.
Ambient Temp (dash readout): 100F - 101F
A/C System: On
Radiator Fans: On or Cycling.
Water (Coolant) Temp: 192F - 195F
Test Speed - 65mph
8 mile pre-test trip - 107F air temp
2 minute soak test - 111F
3 minute soak test - 113F
4 minute soak test - 114F
.4 miles @ 65mph - 111F
1.7 miles @ 65mph - 107F
Second day heat soak test.
2 minutes heat soak - 123F air temp
3 minutes heat soak - 127F
.1 mile @ 45mph - 116F
.4 mile @ 45mph - 113F
1:15 sec stop - 120F
.1 miles @ 45mph - 113F
.8 miles @ 45mph - 109F
Jim C's notes:
Perviously, I was running a Z-tube with the setup and no insulation. But when testing in town revealed fast rising heat soak numbers in town and slow cool down's, I elected to insulate the metal tube that the K&N came with and install it in place of the Z-tube. In addition to dramatically lowering heat soak problems, I got a noticible improvement in top end power, wasn't suttle either.
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From: City of Lost Angels
coming from a beginner with a good sense of feel:
-I installed my pop charger and it did feel a little quicker...could be psychological.
-after a couple weeks I felt like it was getting slower/throttle respose was slower*like less air was getting sucked in*
-I decided to clean it/reoiled it
-put it back on...couple days later SES light came on...at idle the car would sometimes choke like it was about to die.
-decided to take it off and let it idle with out anything-to see if the pop charger possibly restricted the airflow.
-4 minutes of no choke(compared to the two minutes when the popcharger was on) then a sudden choke almost to the death.<--that confused me because popcharger wasn't on...nothing was on.
-decided/convinced to put back on the stock airbox.
-car DEFINITELY FELT SMOOTHER/BETTER RESPONSE...back to normal SES light gone...car felt fast again...no more CHOKING on idle .once again could be psychological
-I installed my pop charger and it did feel a little quicker...could be psychological.
-after a couple weeks I felt like it was getting slower/throttle respose was slower*like less air was getting sucked in*
-I decided to clean it/reoiled it
-put it back on...couple days later SES light came on...at idle the car would sometimes choke like it was about to die.
-decided to take it off and let it idle with out anything-to see if the pop charger possibly restricted the airflow.
-4 minutes of no choke(compared to the two minutes when the popcharger was on) then a sudden choke almost to the death.<--that confused me because popcharger wasn't on...nothing was on.
-decided/convinced to put back on the stock airbox.
-car DEFINITELY FELT SMOOTHER/BETTER RESPONSE...back to normal SES light gone...car felt fast again...no more CHOKING on idle .once again could be psychological
Originally posted by xXVanquishXx
So, would the best setup be Z-tube with stock air box and add a K&N high flow filter? Or, would adding Stillen's CAI with Z-tube be better or are both about even? Does the Stillen intake have that cool whistle sound like the JWT?
So, would the best setup be Z-tube with stock air box and add a K&N high flow filter? Or, would adding Stillen's CAI with Z-tube be better or are both about even? Does the Stillen intake have that cool whistle sound like the JWT?
I cannot imagine running a popcharger for just another 2whp, given it is parasitic off the line, it has to get it's power from your engine and you won't realize the benefit of "7 whp" until something like 5200 rpm. I seriously doubt it shifts the hp curve up +7 from off-idle.
You would do better to look at things like possibly the larger plenum and incremental improvements unless you're up for a big boost via the greddy route or you want a new hood and a roots style supercharger from Stillen.
If you like the whistle, go join the Bubb Rubb Woo Woo crowd and weld plates in your exhaust
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Colombo
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